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The contactors were only used to power this machine in single phase. Unfortunately it only takes a millisecond difference between them to over amp the unit. It is highly likely that all components on the power side are bad and if not mistaken the IGBT's for that unit are obsolete.
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I imagine it was a few more years ago than several. My tech manual for that book starts in 2001. You need to check every connection inside the machine to make sure everything is tight and not arcing. Most cables are held in place with nut and bolt. make sure the capacitors are secure to the mount....
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You may have a thermostat open for the weld circuit that's not allow CR1 to close
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The display board has multiple uses. Obviously amps and volts and idle. Best guess because your display isn't working properly is that is your problem.
You would have to check voltages from the regulator board to be sure. If it welds, the IGBT board is working.
Could be as simple as a LEM...
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I've never figured out the exact cause. The glue lets loose on one magnet and it gets caught between the flywheel and timing cover and chews up everything. Small stone or dirt daubers. I've replaced 50 or so flywheels in 20 years. I can usually tell it's bad by a little squeak as it comes to a stop...
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I think on a 250 you need the regulator connected for it idle. Don't quote me but i remember one of them needs it.
For suer you need the heavy cable from the engine to the frame to make the idle work....
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You did not read my post. By disconnecting the regulator you took the stator and flywheel out if circuit. Your stator and flywheel are bad, not the regulator.
Regulators do not short, they open and stop charging....
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Just charge or repalce the battery. Don't jump it. You should be ok
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2 things on the gas supply. Sounds like you're not getting 12 volts to the solenoid or your carburetor is bad
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Unplug the voltage regulator. Your flywheel is bad and shorting to case
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