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  • As mentioned above, 'historically' boilermakers and pipefitters each have their own distinct jurisdiction. Some work is similar. B/m's do risers, feeders and downcomers which can get up into larger pipe sizes and are usually done tig root/stick out. Not very often a b/m will be welding on pipe stands....
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    Last edited by OldSparks; 06-02-2014, 08:10 AM.

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  • Good start. Suggest taking a straight piece a scrap and grinding some parallel lines across your plate. Practice both on a scribed line and along side it. Helps with consistency.
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  • OldSparks
    replied to Weld inspector.
    Referring to the video ja baudin put up. Pretty good presentation of actual job conditions....don't expect to always have enough room to stand though. Possibly the white hat is an inspector but I'm guessing more likely a foreman or charge hand. He marks anything that jumps out at him...'w' for reweld/more...
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  • OldSparks
    replied to Millwright or Steamfitter?
    Suggest you google various union locals. Most will have a picture section showing recent projects. Will help you get the drift of what their work is like. Example here is one for the boilermakers. Click on the lower pictures ...... http://www.boilermakers359.org/pages...emberphotos.ht...
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  • Perhaps Brian 17's question would be better asked as this. What would the recommendations be to increase re-enforcement on an overhead .218" plate butt (wall thickness for 2" sch.80). Try to do a full 1/4" plate that's 7-8" long. A lot of the time you can get by on thinner wall...
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    Last edited by OldSparks; 03-13-2014, 10:41 AM.

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  • Try drawing your target line and also a parallel line about a quarter to half inch away. Having the second line should help you relate to what's going on. An alternative would be to use a suitable straight edge and grind a slight groove to follow. The ground line shows up better and doesn't burn...
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  • OldSparks
    replied to Weld Settings Calculator
    You're right that Miller should offer some sort of an explanation where they get their calculator numbers. Sure some people may tig 1/4" fillets at 300 amps using 3/16 filler, but a lot more are content at 150 amps with 3/32 or 1/8 filler. Likewise, the butt weld numbers have to be looked at...
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    Last edited by OldSparks; 07-26-2013, 02:12 PM.

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  • OldSparks
    replied to Opinions re TIG Gloves
    A lot of people comment on snug gloves that fit like a second skin. I have small hands and yet I prefer large loose gloves. The only decision is the wall thickness of the project....get away with thin gloves on light material but beefier ones for higher heats and more passes.
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  • While you got the tape out, put a knob on the end. Swing her ten times in row and you'll know if it's slipping before it's too late.
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  • OldSparks
    replied to Flash burn is a B
    Braver man than me. No way I'd put Vicks anywhere near my eyes. Mandatory safety glasses with sideshields and can't remember the last flash I had. The odd reflective burn on neck and ears from other welders in close quarters.
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  • OldSparks
    replied to need some advice
    Long time ago did the 7018 root thing. It was good practice for stainless stick root. They're very similar and lo-hi is cheaper. 3/32 land and gap and use a wedge to maintain opening. I believe 70-75 amps, maybe lower. When doing these uphill roots, instead of straight on, try pivoting rod angle...
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    Last edited by OldSparks; 03-22-2013, 07:50 AM.

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  • OldSparks
    replied to Cutting Welds
    Can't you just angle grind/zip disk through the stitch and base's lip and then weld the lip back up. Lot cleaner then trying to pick it out with a torch.
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  • Retired boilermaker here. Pretty well agree with everything up above. Only thing I would add would be that pipe fitter welders weld round and round for years on end. Noted, they do get very good at it. Boilermakers on the other hand do a more variety of projects. Tig welding in boilers of course,...
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  • OldSparks
    replied to purging stainless pipe
    This is the purge inlet jig. Not too pretty. Basically I scabbed together whatever fit to support the coupon and allow argon entry. Second pic shows a short ss stub in place....
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  • OldSparks
    replied to purging stainless pipe
    Basically what Portable Welder said.......You can also use a splitter off one bottle with valve at end of purge hose. Set flowmeter at 30 cfh, open purge valve to flood coupon (5-10 seconds), back off purge valve to minimum flow, weld away (experiment). Should have no problem using good quality masking...
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    Last edited by OldSparks; 11-02-2012, 04:37 PM.

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