My Grandpa had these, he got them from the local blacksmith when he closed his shop. Hoses are trash, regulators probably are too. I would need to transport them 400 miles to get them home, otherwise free tanks.
I can gas weld, but only have a single car garage to work in, so small...
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Are these small oxy-acet tanks any good?
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Might be the Q1 component that caused simmilar problem on my mm135. here's the thread: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...speed-too-fast
Q1 specs should be listed on the digikey link from my last post on that thread....
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I had the same problem on my MM135. I finally found it on the back side of the front plastic cover, inside where you find the guts to the unit.
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Got it done. The wire wheel did OK but I ended up using a flap disk on the heavy rust spots.
One coat of the Rust Reformer. Just a light coat of sandable primer (I like to do a light sanding before paint) and 3 coats of paint.
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I don't know if the 130 is similar to the 135, BUT...have a look at my thread here, solution is at the end:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ad.php?t=18332
What you described sounds a a lot like my issue (no penetration, inconsistent arc, weld bead...
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Good ol' Rust-Oleum...lol Reminds me of something I'd pickup at wally world when I was 12.
Seriously, is it worth using or am I going to be redoing it in a few years, even with a good solid topcoat?
Thanks again Heiti...
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Making progress. Still a lot of work to do with a wire wheel.
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So a self etching primer?
Now I can't decide what to do...lol
This thing doesn't need to be perfect. Etching primer sounds a bit more simple with less room for error than phosphoric acid/primer process. I suppose it might depend on how much rust I'm able to physically...
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Thanks Mike, something to keep an eye out for as far as epoxy primer. Muriatic (Hydrochloric) acid...not sure I want to venture there. I would be better off grinding the rust out....
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Thanks Heiti. Heavy stuff, like heavy rust? Looks like I need something that can keep the cavities under control....
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Any one ever use rust remover acid called "OSPHO"?
It doesn't require a water rinse like some of the other rust converting chemicals. Water is the last thing I want to put on bare metal before paint.
If I use an acid like this, I don't think it would be wise...
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Thanks, the guy I bought it from pulled it from a Forester. It's going on an Impreza though. Already mocked it up and it should fit no problem (my 97 Impreza and his 2000 Forester have the same basic chassis). So I have a class III hitch going on an application that normally would only have a class...
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Thanks for the info myistar. I hadn't really thought about the type of primer, so that is really good to know.
I'll try to get a pic up in the next day or so. And I'll try to do an after shot when I'm done.
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