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[shorerider16]

I like my Makita 2414NB. Functionally it works well and like all my other Makita stuff it's held up great. I like it a lot better than some of the other brands I've used at jobs or school over the years.

[shorerider16]

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[shorerider16]

I'll second this, not much more to add and good overall advice.

I personally wear a large but I have a rather large melon. (My welding lid headband is alsmost maxed out!) The perferable method would be try them before you buy but if your guessing the medium would be your best bet to start...

[shorerider16]

I use a cheapo plastic storage unit from Canadian Tire for the torch parts and a couple of old tungtsen packages for the tungsten. The rest of my welding related stuff in sits loose in the drawer, in the most organized manner possible. I keep my filler rod in one of those plastic tubes with the screw...

[shorerider16]

Shop I used to work at used water cooled binzel push pull guns on all their aluminum machines. I quite liked the guns myself, far smaller and less akward to use than a spool gun or even Miller's 30a set up as a push pull. On the models we had you could swap out goosenecks for different curves and...

[shorerider16]

3m 7500 series for me as well. Of all the respirators i've tried it's fit and worked the best for welding and grinding.

[shorerider16]

I have seen rods come in all different packaging as well, whether low hydrogen or not. 6010's and other xx10 rods have a cellulose flux and are not designed to be kept in an oven and require some moisture in the flux to burn properly. If the flux becomes too dry it does not burn off properly with...

[shorerider16]

I have on occasion have had batches of 6010's give problems with the flux not burning off evenly / toenailing and found dipping them very quickly in water and letting them sit for a bit before can help. I've also done this on test welds and had them bend no problem, although I wouldn't recomend it...

[shorerider16]

It sounds counter intuitive but try slowing down your travel speed and/or add more wire. (Not sure what wire speed that amperage translates into, I've never had a machine that allows me to monitor amperage.) Sometimes you can get ahead of your puddle and the molten metal flows back down.

[shorerider16]

I used to use Miller gloves exclusively at home and at work, for everything from Tig to heavy wirefeed. I've started using other gloves now however simply because of the price, almost thirty bucks for the Tig gloves and over thirty for the heavy duty mig/stick gloves.

For lighter tig work...

[shorerider16]

I personally prefer steel tables if I am working with steel because it gives the option of tacking fixtures to the table if the need arises. Grind any scabs off neatly when your done and nobody will ever know they were there.

[shorerider16]

Stickout is pretty important with 232/233 as well. Lincoln has specs in there product info to follow, it varies with wire size and i don't remember it the top of my head.


I don't use the stuff everyday, but in my experience I have found it to quite finicky in regards to settings...

[shorerider16]

There's other threads that cover this topic, all with good input.

I personall use the the 3M 7500 series, they are the most comfortable respirator that I have found to date. I pair it up with P100 cartidges, 2097 to be specific, for use while welding, cutting and grinding.

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[shorerider16]

My personal opinion:

For cutting Oxy-fuel torch or Plasma, they are made for cutting and do the best job of it.

For removing weld defects, prepping joints and backgouging I'll take the air arc everytime. You can cut with it, and with practice do a decent job, but it's not...

[shorerider16]

I've used lot's of different 7018's but I have never run an AC version, so I can't help you there. I would imagine that the arc would be different than a DC arc, perhaps someone who's run these could be of more help? Number wise, the AC version falls short of the higher end DC versions but still comes...