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[jjohn76]

Also, there should also already be I2C libraries (it's the wire library for the Arduino). You just need to use the right pins ( the atmegas have hardware on them to write/read via I2C). Then it's just a matter of reading the digital potentiometer data sheet to send the right commands. You can practice...

[jjohn76]

The AD-633 is a good way to multiply two 10V Analog signals if you're using the PWM from your Arduino. You would need a low pass filter on the output of the PWM. You can either use the XMT's remote output ( pin C or D) for one reference signal, or use a potentiometer in your box to generate the 0-10V...

[jjohn76]

Sorry, I got carried away. I spent too much time reading the XMT 304 patent, and posted something almost as confusing - tough read, even with the pictures...

https://patents.google.com/patent/US.../en?oq=5783799...

[jjohn76]

Edit: I changed the inserts to be the correct ones for Miller remotes - 20-27 instead of 20-14...

Makes sense. Have you found the right connectors to put in a splice? You can usually read the connector code. You'll usually have something like MS 3106-20-27P on the connector.

...

[jjohn76]

I found that thread. When I was looking at the 455/PF-10, I did contact Will, who said if he could find another one cheap, he would definitely buy it. Keep in mind, he ran a 455M/PF-10M, which is a huge upgrade from the 455/PF-10. If you find a 455M/PF-10M cheap and working, I would go for it.
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[jjohn76]

Dave, that's a three-phase SCR phase-control machine, which means it will be very difficult to run without a rotary phase converter, and it will take some experimenting to work well that way. It's best to search rotary phase converter for three phase welders on practical machinist. More experience with...

[jjohn76]

Sorry if the relay portion was confusing. If going that route , it's worth just build a cable section with the relay that mates between the remote socket and the wire feeder plug. They're easier to sell unboogered in case you decide to sell them down the road.

[jjohn76]

Chad, it's up to you on whether to fix PC3 or put a relay outside the machine. I wouldn't booger with the machine or leads, and instead spend the $60 for plugs/sockets, 24VAC relay, and wiring. A 24VAC relay with solenoid leads connected to terminals G/K and B from the feeder, and the set of N.O. contacts...

[jjohn76]

Looks like a tapped three phase welder. That contactor looks like it needs a replacement, don't see the spring that keeps the contacts separated, and who knows what else. As long as you get the contactor power rating right and the correct solenoid voltage (the motor board has a couple relays, one is...

[jjohn76]

My last message was cut off. With those three, you have all of the components you need, it sounds like you may not have all of the connectors you need. Can you post a picture of the connectors and cables on the WC-115?

[jjohn76]

Hello,

You can't directly connect the Spoolmatic 30 to the shopmaster, and I would recommend against changing plugs. Does the WC-115A not have a remote socket that connects to your Spoolmatic 30 plug? Those two should plug right

It depends on what output voltages you have...

[jjohn76]

I almost picked one up about a year an a half ago. There was a thread somewhere on a guy experimenting with one. The auxiliary power supply on those wasn't good. If I remember right, the guy decided to keep it on three phase.

I didn't run any beads with the one I almost bought, but did...

[jjohn76]

Hello Chad,

Have you tried jumping between I and J? That's the other contact closure circuit. That should help narrow it down to something wrong with the socket and/or cable. Also, is there any corrosion showing in the remote socket?

If you're looking to remove the cover and...

[jjohn76]

How is your feeder powered right now? Through the remote socket or through a plug to a wall outlet? Also, does it already have the gas solenoid? If it's powered to a wall outlet and you're trying to decide which way to go longer term, you could always connect your tig pedal to the optima. The Optima...

[jjohn76]

I don't think anything is wrong with your motor transistor(Q51 page 36 of your op manual), or you would not have any trigger control - the motor would be full on all the time until resistor R72 burned out, and then you would have no motor turning. For some reason, you're not getting the back emf (voltage...

[jjohn76]

How comfortable are you with electronics trouble shooting? The schematics for the motor control board are in the manual, and most of the components should be easy to find. I'll have to take a look at the schematic later in the week, but should be able to recommend some places on the board to check....

[jjohn76]

For some reason, I thought the 3045FC had a contact closure remote, guess not... You would have to figure a way to close the contactor control (A to B) on your XMT remote. You could with a remote switch, but your best bet would be to find a controller for your Spoolmatic 30A - either the WC-24 or WC-115...

[jjohn76]

Weld Dr, doesn't the Spoolmatic 30A and WC-24 work with the Optima+XMT or Invision or MPA without having a pulse option? I used to run a Thermal Arc 400GMS with an Optima 300 with both the Spoolmatic/WC-24 and SP22-12/Binzel PP26/40D (model might be off). I thought the pulse feeders were necessary for...

[jjohn76]

Are you looking to run it with the Optima Pulser then? If so, your wire feeder (or spoolmatic 30a with the control box or separate push-pull feeder if you're looking to weld aluminum) will work for pulsed mig and the Optima controller. Just be sure to get the correct Optima - some work only with the...

[jjohn76]

It's hard to tell from the picture, but looks like where you dimpled the board you may have moved some of the copper around so it shorts the two traces together. Check continuity between the soldered lead and the large copper trace/pad in the dimpled section. If that is shorted, you may have burned...