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Good deal, hope the part isn’t too awfully expensive and it’s in stock.
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You’re going to end up with your hands inside that machine if you move forward with it, so may as well open her up and make sure you’re comfortable working on live electronics or find someone nearby to help you.
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I hope you got some 1/4” 7018 coming. That big old girl will laugh at you if you stab a little 1/8” rod in her stinger.
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I have never liked a 115v plasma cutter. Makes me want to grab the plasma cutter and bludgeon it against the metal I’m cutting. Only good for cutting auto body sheet metal, downhill with a tailwind.
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Great machine. About 11 years newer than mine, so I don’t think you’ll have to worry about the selenium rectifiers, you probably already have diode bridges.
If that foot pedal works at all it’s worth more than you paid for the whole machine.
On the screw in fuse.....it’s...
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I had a similar hood branded Hobart, but ya man, it’s over for that hood. It’s a hard task to find a comfortable, “high quality” hood for cheap. Don’t be afraid to invest in yourself though. Optrel, 3m, most of the name brands are going to serve you well. I’ve been impressed with the optrel...
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That stuff I sent you was also pretty old, so that might have had something to do with it.
Looks good!
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How in the world did the operator not know he lost an idler like that?
Good on site repair.
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Maybe. If it was made by Miller, you open that thing up and you’ll find all sorts of parts inside that say “Miller electric” on them. Generally it says so on the face of the welder. It should also have a stock number I think it’s called on the front. But definitely all over the inside. Once...
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I say get the best hood you can afford. I’m guessing you’re stuck on getting an auto hood as opposed to a passive lens hood. I actually prefer a passive lens for eye comfort, but the benefits of the auto darkening are pretty obvious. Saying that, you could get an auto darkening lens for a passive...
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