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330 a/bp Start Circuit Switch
Reading the manual just taught me that there is a hidden switch under the hinged face panel called a Start Circuit switch and if not in the 'in' position the Start Amperage adjustment doesn't work. There is no label on that switch. Moving it to the left (on this machine) actuates the CR4 relay. Anyone...
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YAHOOOOOOO. It welds!
There is an Overload Control switch to the upper left of the faceplate. I can't find it in the manual. As soon as I flipped that to the on positions 830 lbs of steel and copper turned into a stick welder. :-) Weird behavior to be solved that way, but I'll take it....
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First SMAW Test Not Good ($125 330a/bp)
First SMAW test results aren't good.
- Weld amps setting 100%
- Polarity does not affect test results
- Can weld only in high amperage range (bottom lever)
- Used 3/32 and 1/8 7018 and 1/8 6010
In any polarity and low and medium welding amp range position...
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Leads will be here shortly and I'll get a SMAW test in. I'll start a new thread in a couple of days and we can get back to the 330a/bp. :-)
Thanks to all the folks that provided helpful input!
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The manual is confusing. I'd heard before that these machines needed a 125A disconnect for full capability. The manual states the use of Forum copper for 230 v operation. Forum has a max amperage of 130 depending on sheath capability. THHN and other high temp sheaths in conduit will accommodate 130A...
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I'll bite. :-) What's the correct way.
Right now it has a 6-50P plug and 6-50R with cable....
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There's a Type T fuse in there. Blue. Is there some other spec besides being yellow?...
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I blew the unit out with compressed air and found the missing jumper. Now it looks stock. :-)...
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The lower terminals are wired for 230. I agree it looked like two separate wires and the yellow crimp connector did give it a cutoff appearance. Turns out the 'two' wires are just one that constitute a jumper. :-) See pic....
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Interesting. I see what you mean. I'll revert it to the taped in diagram as it was and check the other connections you mentioned. I found other configurations and they all had a jumper across some two of the lower terminals. I was curious about that.
PITA if I can't trust the manual. g...
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I checked the input jumpers and found pic 1 and change them to pic 2. I have no clue why they would have been configured as in pic 1. Could the previous owner even have TIG welded with the jumpers as in pic 1? Possible there is a legitimate reason for pic 1? Manual wiring pic included....
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I found a little problem with the polarity lever. At first it wouldn't move at all off Reverse. It finally moved to A/C with a little encouragement but not to Straight. The previous owner had it setup for TIG only and for many years probably and I think I may have some oxidation in the jaws. Hopefully...
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Awesome; have to check out "tap jumpers" Just got the manual so some "put me to sleep" reading ahead.
Yes, plugged it in to a 50amp circuit just to turn it on and I'll probably leave it there just to test out a 3/32 7018 or 6010 to make sure it will weld. If it passes...
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Are you talking about the fuse for the 110 outlet? The round screw in we used to have in house panel boards? The fuse I'm referring to is the long one inside the back cover. It's a 6amp and about 6 inches long....
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"Power factor correction in welders uses a capacitor bank to balance the inductive load of the transformer."
So, just a feature....
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What should I derive from the "Power Factor Corrected" line on the unit label?...
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