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Looks fine to me. Put it together with a new (to you) valve, spring, retainer, etc. You can re-use the head gasket for testing, but buy a new one if it runs, because kohlers seem prone to blowing them.
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I'd get a parts engine with compatible valves if you could get one cheaply, pull it apart, and swap all parts related to the damaged valve. The link I gave to the valve kit above shows a whole lot of models will have all the parts you need. The pushrod should be fine, as should the piston and conrod,...
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Good news is that parts engine you're looking at probably has the same valves.
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If the spring went completely missing and not just cracked, the valve and piston should be inspected.
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The same spring is used in hundreds of models, it seems. It's even used in kohler-powered ATVs, which I didn't know existed until now.
https://www.argoadventure.com/24-089...R_p_12889.html
Even the valves themselves are compatible between many models:
...
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Looking up a parts diagram, you probably need a
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja...ohler/2408902s
You may also need a cap in case yours was damaged or was the cause of needing a spring.
Available from tons of places, fits tons of models... and probably...
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Start with the output inverter board and connections to and from it. Follow the pre-power checks in the technical manual (google for it; miller won't provide it). Beware high voltage.Last edited by Bushytails; 05-21-2023, 07:06 PM.
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Is it welding cold? Turn it up. Is it welding hot? Turn it down....
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Splitting post due to hitting post length limit.
Vehicles:
Jeep M715 military pickup. Decent condition but has some rust. 38.5x11 TSL boggers. Two spare tires. Original drivetrain. Leaks all oils. New top 3 years ago. Warn 8274 winch. Troop benches. Metal pieces from original...
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Selling welding, tools, audio, vehicles, and other stuff
My house was broken into yesterday, and that's the last straw for living here surrounded by tweekers. Looks like I'm going to be having to make an emergency move. I'll probably be listing this stuff on ebay, but I figure I'll post here to see if anyone needs something. I'm just going to list things...
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Their problem is somehow the 200 ohm resistor is good, but isn't measured at the SCR terminals on 3 of the 4 board, put into the same machine with RC1 going to the same place... which I do not understand....
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Is the molex connector you're plugging into it burnt, or the board it goes to bad?
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That's probably because most of our paychecks haven't gone up in 5 years......
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I don't see anything wrong with that board... I wonder if there's version mismatches or something, or the problem is on the other end of the molex plug...
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I know you said older, but I've become pretty fond of XMT304s... being able to actually move them might be part of it!
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