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Questions on a small utility trailer????

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  • Questions on a small utility trailer????

    Hello all. I am rebuilding a small utility trailer I bought at northern tools. It's a 40"X48" bolt together trailer. I planned to unbolt all the parts I need ( ie. axle and springs, lights, hitch, fenders). I know the axel and springs are rated to 1050lbs. I would like to build a utility trailer to haul My gold dredge on . It is 40" wide by 7' long. it weighs 125 lbs on poontoon's. I planed on building a standard utility trailer with expanded metal bottom and 1' side rails. On top of the side rails I planned on adding removable bunk boards to rest on the top frame of the rails. This would give me storage for all the gear below the dredge. I also planned on uprights from the rails to mount a gear basket to haul my kayaks and bikes above the dredge. I was wondering if you all would use tubing or angle. Since the axel is rated for 1000lbs I would like to keep construction weight down to a safe functional minimum. This will be towed behind my Jeep unlimited Rubicon off road so the construction will have to strong and light. I am open for suggestions from all. My plans were 1" square 1/4" walled tubing and 2"x1" for tongue assembly. Any Suggestions?

    These are pictures of two trailers I am crossing to get the final construction from.


  • #2
    I would look at your over all costs to build one and then look at the cost of buying something more similar to what you want. I actually like the HF 4 x 8 for all of my hauling. Also look in to your trailer licensing in your state. I am not sure what your jeep is rated for in the way of hauling and how much a hitch would cost and what class it would be.

    How off road do you want to take this trailer? Really rough or sand or mud paths?

    Think about what will happen if the trailer jack knifes and the possible damage to your stuff.

    But I like square tubing for it's strength, but there is a lot to be said about angle stock also.

    What kind welding are you planning and what type of wire, fill or rods are planning on?

    Jerry

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    • #3
      Jerry
      The Jeep will tow 3500 and al the tow accessories are there. I wanna build the trailer because I already have the axel and needed parts. I am not planning on rock crawling with the trailer but do plan on getting it to my local gold claims to haul camp and gear.
      My plan was to go with square tubing for its strength I am just unsure of the wall thickness i need to go with. I plan on cutting with a horizontal band saw and MIG welding with 75 Argon and 25 Co2. My trailer laws state after bulding it must pass DMV Inspection. I don't think it will have any problems since it will be built better than the current condition and it was store bought. Thanks for the help
      Chris

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      • #4
        Chris,

        I think your going in the right direction. With out having my handbook on metals and strength, I couldn't tell you what thickness to use. But I would go heavy duty if at all possible. If you have to, bolt aluminum tubing to steel to have strength and lightweight. I used GE thread lock compound on the bolts.

        I have a 4 x 8 HF trailer that I really like for general hauling, then I have my home built trailer for the PT 275 and my 15 Kw Generator, with lots of extras, like gas cans, welding supplies and my cooler. I am still adding some of the extras. All of that adds up to about 2,000 pounds, trailer included. I drive a Honda Element. I got the hitch from Whitney and I am still looking for a transmission cooler. Sometime this spring I will unveil this trailer to the world. I used the rear axle from a Dodge Caravan, retaining the brakes, I have not figured out how to make them work, but I still have some time.

        Hope this helps,

        Jerry

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        • #5
          Hey jfsmith, Just get a serge master cylinder ball hitch for your trailer. You can use the factory brakes on your axle with no trouble. Chech out the this link. I never bought one from these guys but wanted to show you what I was talking about.

          http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=150

          I have built several trailers with load capacities up to 3500lbs using 1.5" x 3" 1/8 wall tubing. I have also used allot of van and car axles retaining their original brakes and using the serge cylinder ball hitch to activate the brakes. I don't like using sqare tubing on trailers as a rule, as they seem to not stand up as well as rectangle tubing under load and ruff train. I build allot of snowmobile trailers and the back roads can get a little ruff.

          make sure you always allow for the weight of the trailer itself when dealing with your spring, axle , and tires. your total load includes the trialer itself. I find allot of home builders forget this.

          Have fun.
          Little Fabrication
          sigpic
          Miller DVI2
          Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC
          Thermodynamics cutmaster 38
          HF 130 tig

          Third Class Power Engineer

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          • #6
            Jam,

            I always include in the total weight the trailer. Thanks, for the tip on the brakes. That will help me a lot.

            Jerry

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            • #7
              Let me know how you make out.

              I hope I didn't offend you about the trialer weight thing as I seen people forget this and wanted to stress the point for those reading the post and thinking of building their own trailer.

              Have fun and take care.
              Little Fabrication
              sigpic
              Miller DVI2
              Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC
              Thermodynamics cutmaster 38
              HF 130 tig

              Third Class Power Engineer

              Comment


              • #8
                Still Need a Little help with wall thickness

                Guy's I still need recommendations on wall thickness. I am thinking 3/8 wall square tubing on the framework and 3/8 wall rectangle tubing on the tongue. Can some one verify if this will support the 1000 weight capacity. I understand that the trailer weight must add in tho this GVW so this is the reasoning behind trying to build this as light as possibly with out sacrificing strength. Thanks for the Help Chris

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