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Thin galvanized recommendations

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  • fun4now
    replied
    be shore to drink lots of milk.

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  • Tex
    replied
    Galvanized steel

    Seems like a bad choice for materials anyway. That galvanizing gives off a seriously harmful smoke when welded. I think regular steel would be better for the fabrication and then you can coat it or paint it, etc.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    Scott V
    keep in mind the passport was designed to run with Co2. miller tweeked it to do its best work on C02 as its set up to be a mobil unit run off Co2, so its results wont be what one could expect from all welders.
    no one welder is likely to run as nice on all matereals with all wires or all gases. thats not to say it wont run on them all. just that the maker is going to set it up to run its best under certin circumstances. take the MM210 its clearly got a reputation for doing its best work with .030 wire for the widest useability. wile the passport runs great on Co2 its said the MM135 dose not do as well on it but it will still weld with it. just dont expect passport results out of the MM135 with the same gas.
    if he has it around its well werth giving a try but i dont think a gas change is the way to go. it would be better to find the sorc of contamination and try to take it out of the picture. i'm wondering if the 3M product is intended for weld threw ?? i know there are sealers for rust prevention that were designed to be welded threw, if this one is not one of them he might consider looking for one that is. i dont know where to get the stuff thats weld threw but a post asking would shorely get you some good sorces for it. might ask a few of the on line dealers like arc-zone, b&Rwelding, cyberweld, or even your LWS for fastest results..

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  • Scott V
    replied
    I agree Calweld.
    Just with messing with the passport using co2, I noticed it worked really well.
    This was a galv. coated airless sprayer frame with paint still on it. Thin tube and
    .030 wire too. I was really impressed with how it burned in (not through) without all the nasty side effects.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    Iron man brings up an excilent point, you dont want to be sucking in thouse fumes.

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  • Iron man
    replied
    I am sure you are aware of the fumes from galvanize especially in a closed enviroment such as the inside of a car. Do you have a fan blowing to keep fumes out if so make sure it is not blowing to close to the weld area.you could be blowing the gas away.

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  • DDA52
    replied
    Ok, maybe "hotter" was a mistake, but it does get deeper penetration than C-25...not tons, but noticably deeper.

    For galv I prefer flux core, or 6011,6010's anyway....even on thin sheet. I used to do nothing but sheet metal with sticks...mainly 6010's.

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  • JonnyTIG
    replied
    I don't think CO2 is a hotter gas, since C25 is reffered to as a 'hot gas' and CO2 welds will break during destructive bend testing more readily than the same weld done with 75/25. CO2 cools the welding environment faster as a gas than C25 does, there for generally speaking, welding with CO2 requires more voltage/heat input to produce the same welds as using 75/25.

    CO2 syphon tanks can be used to make dry ice on the spot, pretty cold as it comes out of the valve ontop of the bottle. Argon and Argon mixes won't freeze up as readily. CO2 also freezes regulators a lot faster than mixed gases.

    As for porosity, if it isn't a gun / gas problem, than it is caused by the galvinizing. Zinc tends to want to boil out of the puddle and spray you with molten metal, had this happen many times, have the scars to proove it . I've found that galvinized thin material welds better using minimum heat when using MIG, especially using downhand, or better yet the use of 6010 or 6011 seems to burn out the zinc and produce sound weldments. At any rate, clean off as much of the coating as possible.

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  • DDA52
    replied
    I would say the coating and the galv are causing the porosity. Eliminate them and it will help. No idea about the CO2, but is makes sense. Since it burns hotter, it should burn through the stuff.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    Co2 will also run hotter so if he is having burn threw problems it would not be my recomendation. however its not likely he is going to change his gas setup just to cover one job, just too much expense involved. however if he has Co2 on hand i supose trying it would not hurt any thing other than a lil practise matereal.so if its availible by all means give it a try, just dont go out and spend the $$ to change over as C-25 should handle this job just fine and most report the MM135 to in general run nicer with C-25 than with Co2 as a hole.
    i cant say from expereance how the Co2 burns compared to C-25 as i have only run C-25 in mine with ecelent results. i am in the process of getting some Co2 to try it out in it. my decition to try out Co2 is due to a free tank given to me that will free up my C-25 tank to become a 2nd argon tank for TIG even though i have been told the MM135 dose not weld as nice on Co2. i supose i'll find out soon enough

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  • calweld
    replied
    Originally posted by fun4now View Post
    Co2 is not going to make it better more likely to cause more burn threw isues
    I do it all the time. Straight CO2 gas handles all contamination better, especially zinc.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    if you are not already doing it take the galvy off first. then i would turn down the gas to about 15 and as 84ZMike said check the gas outlets and poarity. door chart will show you witch is witch for flux and solid core settings.
    Co2 is not going to make it better more likely to cause more burn threw isues and C-25 (75/25) will give you the best results with the MM135. i would have to go out and play with mine to get a setting for welding but i would guess around 3 heat and 50 ws would be a good place to start just off the top of my head.
    you might try a little without the 3M stuff to see if its causing the problem but if its designed for welding over odds are its not causing a problem. if it is just skip it and hit both sides of the floor pan with spray on bed liner. you can get a spray can of it at wally world for about $7 should be enough to cover the floor, well you might need 2 cans but still its great stuff well werth putting on.
    good luck and let us know what works out for ya.

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  • 84ZMike
    replied
    "tons of porosity".....did you switch the polarity?......if you have been using flux core make sure the tip addapter that has the 4 holes for the shielding gas is free and clear......slag loves to fall in there and hide out.....
    Good Luck,
    Mike

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  • calweld
    replied
    Use straight CO2 gas.

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    Guest started a topic Thin galvanized recommendations

    Thin galvanized recommendations

    Hello everyone, I'm new here. I have a MM135. I'm welding on 22 gauge galvanized (basically what is in a late model Ford floorpan). I am repairing some floorpan and body issues. I am using .024 wire and 75/25 gas, set at about 25. I have cleaned the metal pretty well, but am still getting tons of porosity and if I turn the heat up, it burns through. I have found my most success with the wire speed up a little higher than recommended. I am keeping about 1/2" in stickout, but know I should probably be keeping it closer. I am also using 3M weld thru coating to protect the metal faces that are captured inside an area after welding, from later rust. Does anyone know of any coatings or anything that will help with the porosity. I'm at a loss, and I want to do it right the first time. I have tried welding and grinding smooth over and over with no luck. Any suggestions would be great.


    Doug
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