Chop Saw Recommendations/Reviews???

[Bert]

How 'bout the JET wet/dry one? I think it goes for @ $700
Do you really need it wet????? or is the dry one good enough?

[bruceb]

you need to try the makita cold cut saw. It has a carbide tip blade that can virtually cut through anything. The salesman I bought it from said that in independent test, one carbide blade would equal about 60 abrasive wheels, just think of the money you would save! It cuts true everytime, and best of all, no dust in your lungs.

Edson
Midland, TX
1

I just purchased the Makita LC1230 colc ut saw too. I love it. Finally able to do nice miter joints!

Bruce

[sjmiller]

Chop Saw

I'm a home hobbyist and had been using a Makita chop saw and High Speed angle grinder to cut my stock. Those days are gone for good, I bought a portable bandsaw that can handle up to 1 1/2 stock (stouttool.com/).

I wear the same protective gear, the bandsaw blade breaking isn't as scary as a cutting wheel flying apart - had both happen...

Steve

[TomVeatch]

...
Hopefully after you get some miles on the new bandsaw and see how it proforms, you will feel allot better and and be happy.

Send me the link for the bansaw you got so I can see what it looks like.

Have fun.

The dealer I mentioned, "The Big Tool Store", outfitted me with most of the stationary tools in my woodshop, so I thought I'd drop by and see what sort of metal cutting band saws he might have. The one that seemed to be the most logical for my applications was the Jet HVBS-56M. There's a picture of one in an earlier post in this thread but here's a link to Jets site. I'd not really considered that saw because the list price was a little more than I wanted to pay. But, as I mentioned, the price on my truck at the local shop was less than $20 more than the delivered price of the other saw. And it's much more than $20 more saw.

So far, I'm very pleased with it. Easy assembly and works properly right out of the box with very little tweaking required. Most of my application is fairly light gauge steel shapes but those it cuts fast, smooth, and square. Can't say what it'd be like cutting 4"x6" steel bars. I'd say it's too small and light for heavy production, but for a garage/hobbiest shop or even for incidental use in a production shop, it's looks ideal. Of course, the thing could self-destruct next week, but for the time being, I'm quite happy with it.

[jamlit]

Hey Tom. Glad to here you got a good bandsaw and it works. I feel very bad about your time, money and efforts wasted on the first one. When I give my opinions and advice on these forums, I do worry about people like yourself who read the posts and go out thinking they got it made now and then have a experience like yours. I still believe you made the right choice on the bandsaw though. I am a member of a few welding and steel forums and I seen several question asked about bandsaw vs chopsaw and the bandsaw always wins against all types of saw hands down. I know that the bandsaw I got was most likely more money and bigger than you wanted, but for the price it an awsome bandsaw.

Sometimes in our haste to save a little money and get something we hope is good fast, we miss some obvious things. We do get what we pay for. I have had the same trouble you have gone through on some other items and know how frustrating it can be. Hopefully after you get some miles on the new bandsaw and see how it proforms, you will feel allot better and and be happy.

Send me the link for the bansaw you got so I can see what it looks like.

Have fun.

[edsonweld]

you need to try the makita cold cut saw. It has a carbide tip blade that can virtually cut through anything. The salesman I bought it from said that in independent test, one carbide blade would equal about 60 abrasive wheels, just think of the money you would save! It cuts true everytime, and best of all, no dust in your lungs.

Edson
Midland, TX




1

[TomVeatch]

Band Saw Saga - End of Story

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I have usually heard good things about Grizzlys so I am sure they will make it right with you. Several months ago I went to a Tool store in Derby, I was pretty impressed with it.
...

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I just think that for a hair under $300 shipped. The new white grizzly is the way to go. Come ****, or high water I'll buy one this year.
...

Bottom line - the G0622 band saw went to the freight terminal for shipment back to the vendor today at 5:00pm CST.

On the way back from the freight terminal, I dropped in the tool store that, I think "gnewby" was talking about - The Big Tool Store in Derby, KS. They supplied almost all the stationary tools in my woodshop and I should have gone there before shopping the internet for the bandsaw. My experience with them is "If they don't have it, you don't need it!"

Looked at the Jet saw they had on the floor and told them to put one on my truck. A comparison between the two would be apples and oranges - it's hard to accept that they are both the same category machine.

Just finished assembling the Jet and it's ready to use. Cuts fast and square (to the limits of my engineers square) vertically and horizontally right out of the box and runs much quieter and smoother with ball bearing supports on both wheels. It's "1/2" HP motor is rated at more input power (990 watts ) than the "3/4" HP motor (594 watts) on the G0622. So I believe the "1/2" Jet motor is actually capable of delivering more power to the blade than the "3/4" HP motor on G0622.

And, the Jet, sitting on my truck was less than $15 more than the other saw delivered. Like I said should have gone there first. I'd have saved myself a lot of time and headaches if I had.

"Toysrme", if you'd like a copy of the email I sent the vendor today detailing my trials and tribulations with the saw, shoot me a PM or email with the address. It may or may not be useful to you in your purchasing decision. I'd PM it to you but the forum software won't accept it - too long.

[gnewby]

Hi Tom, sorry to hear about your problems as well. I can't hardly go to Wichita that I don't stop at TSC when I first get there as it a pain to get to now when going West. I have usually heard good things about Grizzlys so I am sure they will make it right with you. Several months ago I went to a Tool store in Derby, I was pretty impressed with it.

I have been in the Harbor Freight store in Wichita several times but usually just look and don't end up buying much. When I see the items they have on display, looking like they are wore out or in terrible condition and never even used I frown from buying something. Some of the items there are okay just have to decide how long or how many times you plan to use it. I bought one of the bead blasters from them and got one use out of it, next time found out the gloves were history. Found it to be the same way looking around their store at the new bead blasters afterwards. The gloves were wore out and had never made it out of the store.

I have both a band saw and chop saw that I purchased from Orschelin's, both have served me well. I tend to use the band saw a lot more then the chop saw. Most of the time the cutting action is pretty good with both, the band saw took a while to get set up so that it would cut square after first getting it, but usually cuts pretty good, if it starts cutting off square I usually replace my blade right away and most of the time that takes care of the problem.

I used several hard back blades in the past and the last blade I put in it is a bi-metal blade. Have been using it for awhile now with no-complaints.

[TomVeatch]

How are you making out Tom. Is the bandsaw starting to work out for you.

Not real well. The further I dig into this thing, the more problems I find. Don't know if it's poor design, or poor implementation of the design.

I've found the cause of the motor problem. The only way the motor would start the blade moving was to back the blade tension off to almost nil, turn it on, then while its running, tension the blade. Not enough start torque on the motor to start it with the blade tensioned. The problem there was the upper wheel and shaft were completely dry and had begun to gall. Polished out the galling and coated the shaft with grease and it now starts with the blade tensioned. Don't know how long that's going to last, steel sliding on steel, without any kind of bearings. Thinking about pressing out the steel bushing in the wheel and replacing it with an oil impregnated sleeve bearing.

The next problem, and the one that is going to be the most complicated to correct is the depth of cut. With the blade tracking on the wheels the way it's supposed to, and the way the owner's manual directs, the saw lacks almost 1/4 inch cutting all the way through the work. The top of the bow contacts the base before the cut is complete. To get a complete cut, the blade has to be positioned such that only about 1/2 the blade width rides on the wheels. The other half is hanging over the edge of the wheels and is unsupported. Then, you can get a complete cut. But, not only is the blade insufficiently supported, the cutting edge bears on the wheel cover and saws a slot out of it as well as cuts a notch out of one of the ears on the base that support the bow's pivot pin. The only correction I can see for that is to saw off the ears, and either shorten them a quarter inch or so and weld them back in place or replace them with a couple of low profile pillow blocks. Then, I'll have to fabricate a new, lower profile wheel cover and/or grind some clearance on the base and relocate the on/off switch.

I gave some serious consideration to shipping it back to Grizzly for a refund or replacement, but I'd be out the shipping cost and have no guarantee that a replacement would be any better. I believe, once those items are corrected, this will be a servicable saw.

I've never done any welding on cast iron. Wondering if I'd be better off to concentrate on replacing those ears with pillow blocks and forget trying to weld them back in place. If welding is an option, any advice on how to go about it? I have a stick welder and a MIG unit available and am not very proficient with either one.

[jamlit]

How are you making out Tom. Is the bandsaw starting to work out for you.

[Steve]

We also have a Jet horizontal band saw that is older than... Its cleaner for sure than our chopsaw and great for 12 inch I beams.

[jamlit]

Good luck on the motor hunt. Hopefully you will find one. Don't get discraged on the band saw, they are much better than chopsaws and you most likely will find that you will want a bigger and better one . Also when you see how little mess they make and how much more safer they are when using it due to the sparks, dirt, and no disk to break and go flying you will be very happy.

Again good luck and be sure to let me know how you make out.

[TomVeatch]

Sorry to here you are having some troubles. Hopefully it will work out for you.
...

Thanks. Most of the problems I'm seeing are, I believe from reading up on other's experiences, pretty generic to this class of saw (you don't get what you don't pay for) compounded by my own inexperience.

The one problem unique to this particular saw is the motor/capacitor failure. I did find a proper size (35mfd) run capacitor in town this morning and even though it won't physically fit inside the motor's capacitor cover (temporarily held on with duct tape) the motor now runs fine, and the saw cuts quite well. A minor tweak here and there, and I think I'll be well pleased.

I do wish the motor were a CS/IR or CS/CR motor rather than a PSC motor. I think the starting torque is too low for this application. It seems to struggle a little getting things up to speed, but doesn't seem underpowered at all after getting everything moving.

Although the nameplate says 3/4 HP, with only a 5 amp draw, I seriously doubt it's delivering 3/4 HP to the output shaft. Never yet met a 100% efficient electro/mechanical device. I may upgrade it if I stumble across a properly sized CS motor at some point.

[jamlit]

Sorry to here you are having some troubles. Hopefully it will work out for you.

for thoughs who are thinking about a bandsaw and are reading these posts. below is the harbor freight listing for the bandsaw I have. I purchaced it from princess auto which is the Canadian version of harbor freight. It has worked prefect and cut allot of steel. Just recently it was cutting for days cutting 5/8 sqare bar two wide and six tall which would be like a solid piece of steel 1.25 x 3.75 inches striaght cut and 45 degrees on the cheap blade. It cut for two solid days for ten hours each day without shutting off and the blade is still going. the cut were clean, striaght and didn't require much clean up. I love this saw and it has treated me great. It has paid for itself more times than I can count. I have a 14" chopsaw which I have had for over ten years and never once let me down but the bandsaw is so much better that I can't even express it enough.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34272

I hope thoughs who try a bandsaw buy one that is equevelent to a good chopsaw when they are comparing them.

Once you try a good bandsaw you will never want to use a chopsaw again.

[harcosparky]

I've had a chop saw, it cut but I was not happy with it. So we are waiting to get a band saw. After much reading of the discussions on various machines we have decided to wait until enough money is in the 'expendabel funds' mayonaise jar and get a good unit.

I've read of various problems and easy fixes with low cost brands, heck I've read of some guys buying Chinese welders that broke within the first hour of use.

That being said recently we had some $$$ fall into our laps. Some clown rear-ended my work van, dented two read doors. Nothing wrong with the doors as the open and close and the seal is tight. Repair Check from his Ins Co. .... $2100.00

Made a deal with the DE-VIL ( did you know wives were the DE-VIL ) and may well spend this on a band saw. As for the van, I got two perfect doors from the bone yard for $100.00, and the color matched.

So now we are on the march in search of a band saw, with a budget of about $1,000. Gonna use the rest of that money and a little more to upgrade a digital camera.