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  • Broken vise

    Not something I would normally agree to try but it's a favor for a friend of a close family friend. It was booger welded by somebody before and broke again, no surprise. I know it's most likely a waste of time but I had no good excuse to not give it a try. What are your thoughts on procedure and filler metal? Sparks are dull orange. Bottom is machined flat so I'm confident I can clamp it flat to keep it straight. I have never had much success with castings. Just cleaned it up so thought I would ask here.
    Click image for larger version

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    MM250
    Trailblazer 250g
    22a feeder
    Lincoln ac/dc 225
    Victor O/A
    MM200 black face
    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

  • #2
    Most likely gray iron. I have a few of them that were brazed years ago. Still going okay. Takes a reasonable amount of heat and bronze rod though.
    ---Meltedmetal
    ---Meltedmetal

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    • #3
      High nickel content or even maybe just a stainless rod like E309. Will be a b**** to grind afterward.

      Comment


      • #4
        I welded an old Parker. Used lots of Crown Alloys 220M. It’s like eutitic 180 the blue rod lol. The rod was worth more than the vise but it worked
        Bob Wright

        Comment


        • #5
          I have a vise I broke like that, only the shaft is round, so keeping it in line was a challenge. After I prepped the weld area, grooved out, etc, I preheated the entire part over a fire until it was red. Then I used aluminum bronze and tig brazed it with AC. It wasn’t fun, but it’s still holding today and I abuse the heck out of that vise.

          I repaired a squared off one for a friend a couple months ago, pretty much like your deal there. I used the same process and I was very pleased with the result.

          I’ve also repaired at least one more, again for a friend, with a round shaft and it came out just as good. I have complete confidence in that process.

          Also, on each of those repairs, preheated on the fire, repaired, and then tossed back in the fire and I let it stay there until the morning.

          Comment


          • #6
            Finally got around to this. It welded fine, I was surprised. Final test will come with usage. I forgot to take during pics but I vee'd out both sides, clamped to table, preheated with torch to 500* and tacked the bottom outside. Then ran a pass across top. Heated back to temp, unclamped and flipped over so I could weld the inside, two passes. Then I welded the out sides with a few passes while keeping temp about 500*. Finished by welding top with multiple passes making sure to add more metal than original for strength. Post heat evenly to 500* then wrapped in fiberglass insulation over night. Cleaned up and reinstalled the screw. Seems good. I used some rods I had, 1/8 Eutectic xuber 22-33n which is a cast and cast to steel maintenance rod. Thank goodness I save all these oddball rods people give me as it is very expensive stuff. Having trouble with pics, coming soon.
            MM250
            Trailblazer 250g
            22a feeder
            Lincoln ac/dc 225
            Victor O/A
            MM200 black face
            Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
            Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
            Arco roto-phase model M
            Vectrax 7x12 band saw
            Miller spectrum 875
            30a spoolgun w/wc-24
            Syncrowave 250
            RCCS-14

            Comment


            • #7
              Here is the pics.
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              Attached Files
              MM250
              Trailblazer 250g
              22a feeder
              Lincoln ac/dc 225
              Victor O/A
              MM200 black face
              Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
              Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
              Arco roto-phase model M
              Vectrax 7x12 band saw
              Miller spectrum 875
              30a spoolgun w/wc-24
              Syncrowave 250
              RCCS-14

              Comment


              • #8
                I have some similar cast iron welding rods that I hang on to and use sparingly because I don’t need them often and they’re quite spency.

                Good looking repair! Can you tell did the welds get super hard or can you cut it with a file still? Try dragging a file right at the toe of a weld and see if it got hard in there, that should be a good indication of whether or not it got brittle on you.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Already gave it back to owner before I saw your file test.
                  MM250
                  Trailblazer 250g
                  22a feeder
                  Lincoln ac/dc 225
                  Victor O/A
                  MM200 black face
                  Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
                  Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
                  Arco roto-phase model M
                  Vectrax 7x12 band saw
                  Miller spectrum 875
                  30a spoolgun w/wc-24
                  Syncrowave 250
                  RCCS-14

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    As long as they don’t use it as a press or a compactor, or whomp on it with the guns of Navarone, it’ll be fine. Probably at least.

                    Comment

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