Not something I would normally agree to try but it's a favor for a friend of a close family friend. It was booger welded by somebody before and broke again, no surprise. I know it's most likely a waste of time but I had no good excuse to not give it a try. What are your thoughts on procedure and filler metal? Sparks are dull orange. Bottom is machined flat so I'm confident I can clamp it flat to keep it straight. I have never had much success with castings. Just cleaned it up so thought I would ask here.

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Broken vise
MM250
Trailblazer 250g
22a feeder
Lincoln ac/dc 225
Victor O/A
MM200 black face
Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
Arco roto-phase model M
Vectrax 7x12 band saw
Miller spectrum 875
30a spoolgun w/wc-24
Syncrowave 250
RCCS-14Tags: None
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I have a vise I broke like that, only the shaft is round, so keeping it in line was a challenge. After I prepped the weld area, grooved out, etc, I preheated the entire part over a fire until it was red. Then I used aluminum bronze and tig brazed it with AC. It wasn’t fun, but it’s still holding today and I abuse the heck out of that vise.
I repaired a squared off one for a friend a couple months ago, pretty much like your deal there. I used the same process and I was very pleased with the result.
I’ve also repaired at least one more, again for a friend, with a round shaft and it came out just as good. I have complete confidence in that process.
Also, on each of those repairs, preheated on the fire, repaired, and then tossed back in the fire and I let it stay there until the morning.
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Finally got around to this. It welded fine, I was surprised. Final test will come with usage. I forgot to take during pics but I vee'd out both sides, clamped to table, preheated with torch to 500* and tacked the bottom outside. Then ran a pass across top. Heated back to temp, unclamped and flipped over so I could weld the inside, two passes. Then I welded the out sides with a few passes while keeping temp about 500*. Finished by welding top with multiple passes making sure to add more metal than original for strength. Post heat evenly to 500* then wrapped in fiberglass insulation over night. Cleaned up and reinstalled the screw. Seems good. I used some rods I had, 1/8 Eutectic xuber 22-33n which is a cast and cast to steel maintenance rod. Thank goodness I save all these oddball rods people give me as it is very expensive stuff. Having trouble with pics, coming soon.MM250
Trailblazer 250g
22a feeder
Lincoln ac/dc 225
Victor O/A
MM200 black face
Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
Arco roto-phase model M
Vectrax 7x12 band saw
Miller spectrum 875
30a spoolgun w/wc-24
Syncrowave 250
RCCS-14
- Likes 1
Comment
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MM250
Trailblazer 250g
22a feeder
Lincoln ac/dc 225
Victor O/A
MM200 black face
Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
Arco roto-phase model M
Vectrax 7x12 band saw
Miller spectrum 875
30a spoolgun w/wc-24
Syncrowave 250
RCCS-14
- Likes 2
Comment
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I have some similar cast iron welding rods that I hang on to and use sparingly because I don’t need them often and they’re quite spency.
Good looking repair! Can you tell did the welds get super hard or can you cut it with a file still? Try dragging a file right at the toe of a weld and see if it got hard in there, that should be a good indication of whether or not it got brittle on you.
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Already gave it back to owner before I saw your file test.MM250
Trailblazer 250g
22a feeder
Lincoln ac/dc 225
Victor O/A
MM200 black face
Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
Arco roto-phase model M
Vectrax 7x12 band saw
Miller spectrum 875
30a spoolgun w/wc-24
Syncrowave 250
RCCS-14
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