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Which MIG Wire for my Project?

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  • Which MIG Wire for my Project?

    I'm adapting a Ford 703 front end loader to my Kubota L175 tractor. Lots of adapting and downsizing. Bucket is well along, and under frame is started. No problems, so far.

    Soon, I must adapt the hydraulic pistons to this new application. Thanks to the Youtube channel "Cutting Edge Engineering" (CEE), I am not afraid to downsize hydraulic pistons. The 703 pistons are too long, both the cylinders and the rods. I need to cut them by almost 1/3. The bucket cylinders will be my arm cylinders, and one arm cylinder will be my bucket cylinder.

    What wire do I need to use with my Miller 210 welder? I have plain ol' mild steel wire, .035. Do I need something that will get better penetration? Something with better tensile strength? Curtis, on CEE, uses flux core wire and gas to weld the cylinders and rod from CAT D11 dozers. My little ol' Kubota has a hydraulic pressure of 1500 psi and a flow rate of 15 gpm. I imagine a D11 CAT's hydraulics hit the bypass valve at 10K.

    I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.

  • #2
    There are lots of choices and lots of alloys that are stronger than the typical welding wire. Some of those choices are quite expensive and it sounds like you don’t have that much work to do, so that might be a waste.

    For me, when I have a job that I need to KNOW that bead punches in there I’ll run some 7018 or some dual shield wire. For heavier stuff .045 dual shield is about as close to a good low hydrogen weld as you can get for all intents and purposes.

    I would certainly say that short circuit mig is going to give you the penetration you’re looking for, but depending on how big these parts are, you could spray arc it with solid wire successfully, that’s kind of where you’re going to be with dual shield anyway.

    A few weeks ago I rebuilt a smaller ram for a tractor for a customer. I happen to have some fancy and expensive tig rod with 125,000 psi tensile strength and 36% ductility, so I prepped the joint well and gave it a few passes to build up the size weld I needed. It might have been overkill.

    If you live close to Beaumont Texas I’ll let you come grab a roll of some good stuff and just use what you need and bring the rest back.


    • #3
      I would run a dual shield wire such as Esab 7100 ultra, Lincoln 71M, Trimark triple 7 in a .035 dia. These wires run DC+ with either 100% argon or a 75/25 mix. I believe your machine should be able to handle them in .035 dia. but you should look at the wire specs and machine specs first. If not these I would go with 7018 stick.
      Trailblazer 250g
      22a feeder
      Lincoln ac/dc 225
      Victor O/A
      MM200 black face
      Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
      Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
      Arco roto-phase model M
      Vectrax 7x12 band saw
      Miller spectrum 875
      30a spoolgun w/wc-24
      Syncrowave 250


      • #4
        I happen to have a Miller Econotig, that actually works. 7018? Yep. Lots in stock. I'm guessing that the cylinder wall is about 3/4" thick. The bucket shafts are 1-1/4" and the bigger shaft is 1-1/2". Would have been heavy overkill for the L175, but cut down, should only be a little on the thick side. Piston size effects fill speed, and so arm speed, but on the other side applicable force. It'll be slow, but strong. I'll tack with MIG, then stick weld.

        To buy the cylinders new, even from, would have been outrageous.

        I'd LOVE to have one of those workpiece spinners Curtis on CEE has. A future build?

        There's a ton of choices for 4-1/2" angle grinder wire brush. Any sage advice?

        Youtube videos followed.
        IC Weld
        Cutting Edge Engineering
        Salvage Workshop
        Fab Rats
        Matt's Offroad Recovery
        Ron Pratt
        Mike Reggie (Welding)
        Kevin Caron, Artist

        I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.


        • #5
          Originally posted by buffumjr View Post
          I'd LOVE to have one of those workpiece spinners Curtis on CEE has. A future build?
          I have to admit that kid Curtis is one talented young individual with a host of nice equipment that he is equally well versed in all there uses of machining & welding phases that would normally take several guys in a shop of his size...........there is a Bio on him in one episode and seems he got to where he is on his own. Bravo!!

          I bought a couple of these rollers off Amazon a while $24.75 ea. and free shipping. With my little MK positioner it will turn some pretty fair sized parts easily.......Rebuilding my Ford 1500 tractor right now......but adding a front loader....found most of the parts in wrecking yards.

          Hopefully your hydraulic pump will accommodate those cylinders... Click image for larger version

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tarry99 View Post

            Hopefully your hydraulic pump will accommodate those cylinders...
            As stated earlier, the smaller cylinders will raise the arms. I'm just going to use one, shorter cylinder for tilting the bucket. I'm not "on production", so there's no foreman tapping his toe, angry I don't go faster. Should do just fine. If it doesn't, that's what they make tools for.

            I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.


            • #7
              The Adjust-A-Roll is the non-powered end. Should be no problem to build the powered end. Car window regulator motor. 120VAC to 12VDC converter, PWM and a foot control, a couple of 1/4" aluminum plates, a couple of 4" or 6" rollers, and some belts and pulleys. A day or so of work. A good hobbyist's project.

              My two heaviest used shop tools are a powered hacksaw and a bench grinder made from a 1960s clothes dryer motor. Small footprint and gits 'er done.
              Last edited by buffumjr; 08-30-2021, 05:57 AM.

              I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.


              • #8
                I love my power hacksaw.


                • #9
                  Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                  I love my power hacksaw.
                  Yes! Anyone who has ever hand hacksawn 1-1/2" O-1 tool steel learns fast to appreciate a powered saw.

                  I don't need to find myself. I'm always at my lathe.


                  • #10
                    Yes on the power hacksaws and Bandsaws , use them daily........But short of the sharp little metal shards this spits out the EVO 380 with a 15" carbide blade is my go to saw most times now especially for angles and even compound angles........I just faced off a 2x2x.188 angle and trimmed off .060 with accuracy. 5 years on the same blade. Click image for larger version

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