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8ft trailer extending 8" for all lawn equipment, need suggestions and guidance..

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  • 8ft trailer extending 8" for all lawn equipment, need suggestions and guidance..

    The client i do a number of jobs for brought his trailer today and wants to add an additional 8" to the end of it in order to carry all the equipment he has. So my question is what additional supports do i need to add to help keeping that section from sagging?

    The main frame is made from 3x2 angle, so i was going to cut back the end that is holding the flooring in place, add new angle out the 8", top and bottom since it has 12" side railing.. if i add a smaller size angle on the inside of the 3x2 so that i can butt weld the extension, but then have the smaller running inside maybe 1 or 2 ft into the existing frame, stitch welded every 2" would that be enough?

    There wont be any heavy sitting weight on that new section, just 2 standard push mowers, the main sitting mower going in the front of the trailer.

    Looking for suggestions and guidance on reinforcing the new section to the old.

  • #2
    Your only adding 8in so don't sweat it, just add the same size angle and put a plate over the vertical joint on the outside. If you put an angle on the inside it will affect how the wood sits. Bevel the joint so you get full penetration and weld from both sides. 8in shouldn't affect the tongue weight enough to worry about.
    Last edited by MMW; 08-21-2021, 07:08 PM.
    MM250
    Trailblazer 250g
    22a feeder
    Lincoln ac/dc 225
    Victor O/A
    MM200 black face
    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

    Comment


    • #3
      My first thought is the same as MMW. If this is just to make floor area for a couple push mowers, and the tongue weight is not really affected, I doubt you need to do anything except a very good weld. A fishplate would just be a bonus.

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      • #4
        The first thing I would do is weigh your tongue weight..........if it's lite put the 8" forward.....nothing worst than a trailer that is lite up front causing it to try and steer the towing vehicle.

        Comment


        • #5
          So yea the additional length is in order to carry his 2 push mowers, one on each side of the larger riding mower. The only weight that will be on this new section while driving is the 2 mowers as the riding one sits perfectly over the axle and is all the way forward in the trailer. Looking at some mower weights online, seems each one would be around 30 to 40 lbs each.. so less than a 100lbs combined. After all the feedback, maybe i was over thinking it but just wanted to be cautious. Ill be calling around for metal prices today and will post progress pics once he approves the work and i get the trailer.. This time around going to be adding some expanded metal around the side panels also, so ill have it a few days.

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          • #6
            Steel prices lately around here have me seeing red.

            Comment


            • #7
              I was shocked with the metal prices as well, i knew the wood prices had doubled and in some cases tripled here. But when i want to quote a job, the prices had doubled where i get my metal.. So a job i had quoted at the beginning of the pandemic, was around $300 i think it was.. they said no at that time and just about 2 months ago, they came back and when i requoted the exact same thing, the metal prices had doubled and the new quote was just over $600, they went ahead and did the job, but both were surprised.

              Luckly for this addition its only 10 feet of material, so that would be a big hit on the pocket for them and will get the job.

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              • #8
                Does the 8" extension mean you need to move the tailgate/ramps back too? Still not a big deal but it will then carry the riding mover during loading and have to support the ramps and is a little more complicated than just a floor extension.
                ---Meltedmetal

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                • #9
                  Yes, the ramp i just installed a few weeks ago will need to be moved back. I was looking at adding some support under the new section which would be welded to the back of the existing frame. Then on that new section, some 1/4' flat bar from the lower corner of the section up to the existing side panel to help keep the new section from bending down.. Here is the only picture i have now of what i had added (tacked in place) since i dont have a side view, the red line is just representing what i mean by support the new addition with a strap from that top corner down to the bottom corner of the new section.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  The new section would be 2x3 x 3/16 angle for the bottom and side panel section. Then support the new section with 1/4" flat bar from top corner existing side panel down to the new section (1/4" because i have plenty of that laying around and dont need to go buy a whole bar )

                  If i had more pictures of the side and back i could show and see if my idea would be enough. I think it should be, but thats why im here to make sure.

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                  • #10
                    Okay, so you will extend the top rail as well as the bottom and then make/move the hinges and latch for the ramps. Now I see.
                    ---Meltedmetal

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                    • #11
                      You are correct, everything i just did a few weeks ago, will be removed, new section added and then everything re-added to the new section.

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                      • #12
                        You may be better off time wise to measure in about 4" from the back and slice the side angles and top angles there. Then add your 8" section in between. That way you do not need to mess with the gate or hinges, etc. Just the two angles on each side. But it all depends how hard to remove the outer planks and the wiring for the lights. Just giving you another idea but your call as you can see better than me.
                        MM250
                        Trailblazer 250g
                        22a feeder
                        Lincoln ac/dc 225
                        Victor O/A
                        MM200 black face
                        Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
                        Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
                        Arco roto-phase model M
                        Vectrax 7x12 band saw
                        Miller spectrum 875
                        30a spoolgun w/wc-24
                        Syncrowave 250
                        RCCS-14

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Still working up the quote and im open to any suggestions on how to proceed, but without the trailer in hand and more pictures, hard to post how its currently built and what ideas of the additions..

                          The biggest problem i have is that i dont have a garage or shop to work in, so all this is done under a shade canopy in my driveway. Once we move one of the requirements for the new home is a 3rd utility garage or plenty of land to be able to work more comfortably (space wise)

                          An indoor space would be best so i can setup everything and lock up at night and continue the next day, working in the driveway sucks because at the end of each day im working on a project, i have to tear down anything i can and put up in the garage and then setup everything again the next day.. Which so far has been ok, because no project has taken more than 2 days..

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                          • #14
                            What machine are you using to weld on that trailer with?

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                            • #15
                              I have been and will be using my Multimatic 200 (110/220), its currently setup for Flux wire just to have more freedom moving around without the tank. If i had longer leads, i would switch back to gas setup. But for now thats what ill be using.

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