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Help Required for Vertical Uphill Stick Welding

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  • Sberry
    replied
    I read this a little again. If I was doing this would do the vert in 1 pass 1/8 7018 or even 3/32 depending on power source. Doing general fab and repair it's really a rare day I use 2passes.
    . Looks like the real load is in the top pass, the vert is slimy to attach the flange. 3/16 weld plenty sufficient, does not need to be as strong as it can be but as strong as it needs to be.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    Skip the practice, time to get it done. No one gonna fire you for this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    A good share of nukes were built with 3/32. I did a repair on a forklift a while back from customer 120V and a Maxstar. Was so nice not to hear an engine running and they did actually have 240V but,, 2 or 3 hrs of fab, a few minutes of welding and about 6 inches of it has to run a second pass on a vert. Having a bigger machine or actually a bigger electrode would have saved less than 5 minutes, I had to run maybe 3 or 4 extra rods and the job was right in the face so pretty didnt hurt.
    Something else I elude to is that while I am a career welder I really dont weld much anymore and it does take a bit to stay in shape. It really takes me a week or 10 days of running a few rods a day to come back to where I am really running the rod vs kind of hanging on. The nature of our work makes most of it irrelevent as it all looks great to others but I would struggle with a higher level if required.
    I been there when testing, I made it thru, by tests I wouldnt have looked that great starting but once I come up to speed could make the quality shoot up. My fave is really overhead fillet but consistent verts are really the hardest.
    Welding is so vast and experience varies but I find a tendency for lots to think cause that scratched an arc they know everything about it. It comes up on occasion,,, I was running a crane and if I talk to some rig guys they figure everyone but them is a hobby type, they can always find something, didnt chip all the slag off etc, very rarely they actually look. I did a hi pressure water line tie in a while back while the crew waited and after it was done the backhoe guy says,,,, we dont even have to test this do we? ha. I said no, they we put in another 1000 ft. I was more a daily driver at the time and it makes quite a bit of difference.
    The stuff we do is passable but can really go a long time between critical work. Most days I do some but stitches on the bench with a feeder is different than getting in some terrible spot on some fussy weld. When I dont do regular get a kind of vertigo type thing makes it a challence when you have head at odd angles, makes it a bit worse if not prepped right, even some dirt on a lense makes a difference a guy wouldnt notice on a bench putting a big ole smoker down.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    If I’m running up, I prefer 3/32 7018. You’ll be able to get just as good a bite and it stacks metal a lot easier.

    And I agree, there ain’t a dadgum thing wrong with the welds on your test coupons. Just don’t fall in the water.

    Leave a comment:


  • Don52
    replied
    Originally posted by Sberry View Post
    Those do look as good, the first one especially. Don,,,, I think its good you check and worry a little but you got nothing to be embarrassed about here. I scuff stuff with a grinder on occasion, a little smooth and sometimes so subtle its hard to tell I dun it. Yours look good enough that I wouldn't have any problem paying the bill.
    The pictures are highly magnified and show every hair out of place, in the real world those would look pretty good and not draw a second look once they painted a little.
    Thanks. I have been continuing to practice both the 6011 and the 7018 rods. Below are some of my practice pieces.

    5. Practice samples
    Click image for larger version  Name:	5. Practice samples.jpg Views:	1 Size:	143.8 KB ID:	615474

    I am beginning to read the puddle and respond correspondingly. Here is my 6011 up hill.

    6. 6011 90 amps
    Click image for larger version  Name:	6. 6011 90 amps.jpg Views:	1 Size:	107.6 KB ID:	615475

    And here is the 7018 practice.

    7. 7018 115 amps

    Click image for larger version  Name:	7. 7018 115 amps.jpg Views:	1 Size:	110.7 KB ID:	615476
    Tomorrow I will weld some 1/4" and 1/2" Tee joints together.

    -Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    I wish that my welds looked as good as yours
    Those do look as good, the first one especially. Don,,,, I think its good you check and worry a little but you got nothing to be embarrassed about here. I scuff stuff with a grinder on occasion, a little smooth and sometimes so subtle its hard to tell I dun it. Yours look good enough that I wouldnt have any problem paying the bill.
    The pictures are highly magnified and show every hair out of place, in the real world those would look pretty good and not draw a second look once they painted a little.

    Leave a comment:


  • Don52
    replied
    Originally posted by MMW View Post
    Probably going to get alot of different opinions on what is best for this job. First question is what machine will you be using, ac or dc?
    I am planning on using DC. It is smoother and I believe safer.

    Assuming dc,you can weld it using all 6010 down or 6010 down first pass with 7018 up after or all 7018 up. Any of the three will get the job done. If it was me I would use 7018 up 3/32 dia, because that is what I am most used to.
    I am shooting for running 1/8" 6010/6011 up hill for the first pass. For the second pass I am shooting for running 7018 up hill. I plan to continue to practice until I am satisfied with the results. I can always fall back to one of the other options that you mentioned.

    Just realized you were asking for someone local to come give you some pointers. I am too far away.
    Yes, I wish you were closer.

    -Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Don52
    replied
    Originally posted by Sberry View Post
    Something.
    I wish that my welds looked as good as yours.

    1. One quarter inch plate 1st pass
    Click image for larger version

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    2. One quarter inch plate 2nd pass
    Click image for larger version

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    3. One half inch 1st Pass
    Click image for larger version

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    4. One half inch 2nd Pass
    Click image for larger version

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    -Don


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  • Don52
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
    I love the diagrams, Don! According to the picture, looks like you have some help at least! And I know, 100%, that’s not you sitting on that dock.....

    I was hoping someone would through in the 7014 suggestion for good measure, but alas, I’ve been let down easy.

    Better get this done before the gales of November come calling!
    I do have 7014 rods, but I didn't consider it for some reason.
    I am planning on visiting the site tomorrow to see how bad the fit up is for the welding joints and to see how badly pocked the pylon is after Mark ground off the paint.

    -Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Don52
    replied
    Originally posted by walker View Post
    Just use 6010 (not 6011, as you are not using an A/C welder out there). Downhill is totally fine. No need to switch to 7018 afterward, just a couple passes with 6010 down and you are fine.
    I get it. It is much easier to run 6010 downhill instead of uphill. I guess that the strategy would be to add enough weld to get around the lack of root penetration inherent in downhill welding of metal that is thicker than 3/16"?

    -Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    Something. Click image for larger version

Name:	7018 vert 2p.JPG
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ID:	615461 Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    I love the diagrams, Don! According to the picture, looks like you have some help at least! And I know, 100%, that’s not you sitting on that dock.....

    I was hoping someone would through in the 7014 suggestion for good measure, but alas, I’ve been let down easy.

    Better get this done before the gales of November come calling!

    Leave a comment:


  • Electric4Life
    replied
    well that went downhill really fast. SmawGmaw I've had discussions here before that have brought on your unwanted comments. I hope a moderator can put an end to your fowl language and poor judgment once and for all.

    Leave a comment:


  • smawgmaw
    replied
    Originally posted by walker View Post
    I thought the A/C machine was 50 years ago. Pretty sure I wouldn’t want the additional shock risk of A/C welding in the water.
    Never mind.
    Last edited by smawgmaw; 06-18-2021, 04:10 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • MMW
    replied
    Probably going to get alot of different opinions on what is best for this job. First question is what machine will you be using, ac or dc? Assuming dc,you can weld it using all 6010 down or 6010 down first pass with 7018 up after or all 7018 up. Any of the three will get the job done. If it was me I would use 7018 up 3/32 dia, because that is what I am most used to.


    Just realized you were asking for someone local to come give you some pointers. I am to far away.
    Last edited by MMW; 06-17-2021, 01:49 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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