Help Required for Vertical Uphill Stick Welding

[Don52]

50 years ago all I had for welding was a Smith oxyacetylene torch and a Miller Thunderbolt A/C buzz box welder. I used the torch for welding sheet metal and the buzz box for everything thicker. For the arc welder, I used it almost exclusively in the flat position. I did very little out of position welding with it. During the summer I worked for my uncle’s asphalt paving company, so I actually did a fair amount of stick welding for repair, but again it was almost exclusively in the flat position.
In recent years I have used MIG and TIG exclusively, with almost no stick welding. For out of position welding on thick plate I have used dual shield flux core wire.

Now I have an application for a friend and customer, where I have to weld some brackets to some pylons out on a dock. It makes sense to use the stick weld process (SMAW). The brackets are zinc dichromate plated and the pylons are painted. The pylon are 8-1/2” in diameter tube with a 5/16” wall. The top plate of the brackets are 1/4” thick. The brackets have two vertical plates one is 1/2” and the other is 1/4”.

The following two pictures show the one bracket welded to a pylon. The required weld location is shown in purple.




The last two pictures shows the location of the brackets to be welded relative to the dock.




My plan is to first grind off the plating from the brackets and grind off the paint from the pylons in the area to be welded. I was planning on running the first pass with 6011 or 6010 rods for good penetration and to burn through any remaining contamination. The second pass I was planning on using 7018 rods.
I have watched Jody’s videos and have been practicing vertical up hill fillet welds on both 1/4” and 1/2” plates with both 1/8” and 5/32” 6011 rods, but could use some help, from someone near Troy MI, who is proficient in vertical up hill welding with 6011 or 6010 rods. I would like them to watch me weld and give me pointers and show me on how to improve.

-Don

[walker]

Just use 6010 (not 6011, as you are not using an A/C welder out there). Downhill is totally fine. No need to switch to 7018 afterward, just a couple passes with 6010 down and you are fine.

[smawgmaw]

Just use 6010 (not 6011, as you are not using an A/C welder out there). Downhill is totally fine. No need to switch to 7018 afterward, just a couple passes with 6010 down and you are fine.

Unless I am mistaken, 6010 is mainly a dc rod, the op says he has a Miller ac buzz box. Some dc rods will work with an ac machine, but, many will not. I suggest he use the 6011 rod.

[walker]

Unless I am mistaken, 6010 is mainly a dc rod, the op says he has a Miller ac buzz box. Some dc rods will work with an ac machine, but, many will not. I suggest he use the 6011 rod.

I thought the A/C machine was 50 years ago. Pretty sure I wouldn’t want the additional shock risk of A/C welding in the water.

[MMW]

Probably going to get alot of different opinions on what is best for this job. First question is what machine will you be using, ac or dc? Assuming dc,you can weld it using all 6010 down or 6010 down first pass with 7018 up after or all 7018 up. Any of the three will get the job done. If it was me I would use 7018 up 3/32 dia, because that is what I am most used to.


Just realized you were asking for someone local to come give you some pointers. I am to far away.

[smawgmaw]

I thought the A/C machine was 50 years ago. Pretty sure I wouldn’t want the additional shock risk of A/C welding in the water.

Never mind.

[Electric4Life]

well that went downhill really fast. SmawGmaw I've had discussions here before that have brought on your unwanted comments. I hope a moderator can put an end to your fowl language and poor judgment once and for all.

[ryanjones2150]

I love the diagrams, Don! According to the picture, looks like you have some help at least! And I know, 100%, that’s not you sitting on that dock.....

I was hoping someone would through in the 7014 suggestion for good measure, but alas, I’ve been let down easy.

Better get this done before the gales of November come calling!

[Sberry]

Something.

[Don52]

Just use 6010 (not 6011, as you are not using an A/C welder out there). Downhill is totally fine. No need to switch to 7018 afterward, just a couple passes with 6010 down and you are fine.

I get it. It is much easier to run 6010 downhill instead of uphill. I guess that the strategy would be to add enough weld to get around the lack of root penetration inherent in downhill welding of metal that is thicker than 3/16"?

-Don

[Don52]

I love the diagrams, Don! According to the picture, looks like you have some help at least! And I know, 100%, that’s not you sitting on that dock.....

I was hoping someone would through in the 7014 suggestion for good measure, but alas, I’ve been let down easy.

Better get this done before the gales of November come calling!

I do have 7014 rods, but I didn't consider it for some reason.
I am planning on visiting the site tomorrow to see how bad the fit up is for the welding joints and to see how badly pocked the pylon is after Mark ground off the paint.

-Don

[Don52]

Something.

I wish that my welds looked as good as yours.

1. One quarter inch plate 1st pass


2. One quarter inch plate 2nd pass


3. One half inch 1st Pass


4. One half inch 2nd Pass


-Don

[Don52]

Probably going to get alot of different opinions on what is best for this job. First question is what machine will you be using, ac or dc?

I am planning on using DC. It is smoother and I believe safer.

Assuming dc,you can weld it using all 6010 down or 6010 down first pass with 7018 up after or all 7018 up. Any of the three will get the job done. If it was me I would use 7018 up 3/32 dia, because that is what I am most used to.

I am shooting for running 1/8" 6010/6011 up hill for the first pass. For the second pass I am shooting for running 7018 up hill. I plan to continue to practice until I am satisfied with the results. I can always fall back to one of the other options that you mentioned.

Just realized you were asking for someone local to come give you some pointers. I am too far away.

Yes, I wish you were closer.

-Don

[Sberry]

I wish that my welds looked as good as yours

Those do look as good, the first one especially. Don,,,, I think its good you check and worry a little but you got nothing to be embarrassed about here. I scuff stuff with a grinder on occasion, a little smooth and sometimes so subtle its hard to tell I dun it. Yours look good enough that I wouldnt have any problem paying the bill.
The pictures are highly magnified and show every hair out of place, in the real world those would look pretty good and not draw a second look once they painted a little.

[Don52]

Those do look as good, the first one especially. Don,,,, I think its good you check and worry a little but you got nothing to be embarrassed about here. I scuff stuff with a grinder on occasion, a little smooth and sometimes so subtle its hard to tell I dun it. Yours look good enough that I wouldn't have any problem paying the bill.
The pictures are highly magnified and show every hair out of place, in the real world those would look pretty good and not draw a second look once they painted a little.

Thanks. I have been continuing to practice both the 6011 and the 7018 rods. Below are some of my practice pieces.

5. Practice samples


I am beginning to read the puddle and respond correspondingly. Here is my 6011 up hill.

6. 6011 90 amps


And here is the 7018 practice.

7. 7018 115 amps


Tomorrow I will weld some 1/4" and 1/2" Tee joints together.

-Don