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  • International truck cab floor

    Had to repair the floor and supports on a single axle dump truck. Goal was to make it solid but don't go overboard. Easy to say, hard to do. Customer was happy so I guess I accomplished the goal. Pulled up the layers of floor mats and water soaked insulation. Big holes and swiss cheese. Planned to do everything from the top so I did not have to remove fuel tank and air tank.

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    MM250
    Trailblazer 250g
    22a feeder
    Lincoln ac/dc 225
    Victor O/A
    MM200 black face
    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

  • #2
    Cut out the floors while being careful to of any lines/wires underneath and making paper templates as I went to keep the shape as best I could. There was more than a dozen threaded nuts in the floor to hold the engine covers on so I had to make sure I was able to put those in the right location. Also had to get the clutch pedal bracket located which was behind the gas pedal. Once the floor was opened up you can see the supports were rotted away, just a pile of rust and dirt. 2nd pic I have the clutch bracket area together and supports cleaned up. 3rd pic the supports are done.

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    MM250
    Trailblazer 250g
    22a feeder
    Lincoln ac/dc 225
    Victor O/A
    MM200 black face
    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

    Comment


    • #3
      Next up was filling in the floors. I sprayed the insides of the supports with fluid film which is a waxy type of coating to help slow the rust. Just paint or undercoat doesn't do much unless you sand blast first but this stuff is supposed to contain/slow/stop the rust? Time will tell. Patch it in with several pcs. just to make it easier. Pic 1 front section done, pic 2 finished drivers side, pic 3 from wheel well. Tried to caulk as best I could. Wheel well got paint because it was mostly clean metal. In the first pic you can see the fluid film on the supports.

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      MM250
      Trailblazer 250g
      22a feeder
      Lincoln ac/dc 225
      Victor O/A
      MM200 black face
      Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
      Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
      Arco roto-phase model M
      Vectrax 7x12 band saw
      Miller spectrum 875
      30a spoolgun w/wc-24
      Syncrowave 250
      RCCS-14

      Comment


      • #4
        Onto passenger side. I actually did this side first. Not anything different here. Pic 1 floor supports done (see fuel tank under floor, glad it was diesel), pic 2 from fenderwell, pic 3 floor buttoned up, pic 4 from fenderwell caulked up.

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        MM250
        Trailblazer 250g
        22a feeder
        Lincoln ac/dc 225
        Victor O/A
        MM200 black face
        Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
        Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
        Arco roto-phase model M
        Vectrax 7x12 band saw
        Miller spectrum 875
        30a spoolgun w/wc-24
        Syncrowave 250
        RCCS-14

        Comment


        • #5
          In between the two sides was a bolt in floor panel for engine access. Rotted out so had to fab a new one. Pic 2 drivers side painted, pic 3 center pc with engine covers back on, pic 4 passenger side painted. Once I was all done I went underneath and sprayed as best I could with fluid film all over. Should last a long time.

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          Last edited by MMW; 03-16-2020, 07:16 AM.
          MM250
          Trailblazer 250g
          22a feeder
          Lincoln ac/dc 225
          Victor O/A
          MM200 black face
          Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
          Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
          Arco roto-phase model M
          Vectrax 7x12 band saw
          Miller spectrum 875
          30a spoolgun w/wc-24
          Syncrowave 250
          RCCS-14

          Comment


          • #6
            Lastly he wanted me to address the back of the cab but I ran out of time to cut/weld plus redo some of the supports underneath as I had other work lined up. It was mostly cosmetic as the cab mounts here are inboard of the frame rails so this could easily wait for a long time. This side had rust through on the body panel and had been bondoed up at one time and was coming off. I ground down any high spots bubbling up and cut a pc of 20 gauge. Liberally applied caulk and pop riveted on so someday when I revisit this I can drill out the rivets and remove it. A little paint and it is covered up. Funny thing is the customer was the most thrilled with this area because he has to look at it everytime he uses the truck. I only have after shots of this but it had a few holes in it. Here you can see the battery box underneath which I think partially led to rust back here from the fumes as the other side has very minor rust. Just putting in floor mats with no insulation so it is easy to clean and dry out. Much quieter and no fumes in the cab now.

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            Last edited by MMW; 03-16-2020, 07:14 AM.
            MM250
            Trailblazer 250g
            22a feeder
            Lincoln ac/dc 225
            Victor O/A
            MM200 black face
            Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
            Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
            Arco roto-phase model M
            Vectrax 7x12 band saw
            Miller spectrum 875
            30a spoolgun w/wc-24
            Syncrowave 250
            RCCS-14

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice work! Thanks for posting. Not counting all the time for the great pictures, how much time to you have into that job? Have done some similar stuff and it's not easy getting everything to come out right, especially having to place all the nuts precisely to put the engine cover back on.

              Comment


              • #8
                Good post. I have a job lined up for a 71 dodge pick up that the floors the same work. Hopefully not as much as that one though!

                Comment


                • #9
                  What no drain holes.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I was not able to work on this full days at a time so it took a little longer than it should have. All the stopping and starting adds time. Having said that I booked 55.5 hours start to finish. Includes moving truck in/out of shop, unbolting, disconnecting stuff, welding, fab, paint, running for bolts, putting it all back together, caulking the windshield and anything else that I did. When billed out I deducted 15% of the labor because I took my time on it and did not feel it fair to the customer to charge for my "slowness".
                    MM250
                    Trailblazer 250g
                    22a feeder
                    Lincoln ac/dc 225
                    Victor O/A
                    MM200 black face
                    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
                    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
                    Arco roto-phase model M
                    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
                    Miller spectrum 875
                    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
                    Syncrowave 250
                    RCCS-14

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That sounds more than fair to me. And as you say, it's not just the cutting/fitting/welding---lots of other stuff to do, and it all takes time. There is a lot of work in that! Very nice job!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I recently had a job that took some time to get through, mostly because of weather. So I cut the customer a deal on it, which was more expensive than he expected anyway. He said he didn’t want all that work done. I politely explained to him that there’s a lot more into “just welding it up”. I knocked a third of the price off and he went around behind my back to people we know and complained about what I charged him. Those people, in turn, immediately informed me of course. Needless to say, that will be the last job I do for that guy.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                          I recently had a job that took some time to get through, mostly because of weather. So I cut the customer a deal on it, which was more expensive than he expected anyway. He said he didn’t want all that work done. I politely explained to him that there’s a lot more into “just welding it up”. I knocked a third of the price off and he went around behind my back to people we know and complained about what I charged him. Those people, in turn, immediately informed me of course. Needless to say, that will be the last job I do for that guy.
                          Man, I hear you, Ryan. People are generally clueless about how much work something is. I can remember my dad cutting people breaks like that all the time, which was really tough for him since we were living hand to mouth, day by day, and they still complained. Your response is the only fix--don't call me again.

                          Most people were pretty decent, but there were a few.....

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice job! That truck has seen some serious time to be rusted out like that. If only these old truck could tell stories
                            Millermatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax30 XP, Hypertherm Powermax45 XP, LOTOS LTP5000D https://fabricationguy.com/

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