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Creating A Transmission Bolt Boss On An Engine

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  • Chris401
    replied
    Project suspended while I look to find a 58-60 junk block for a donor piece. If not I may just build a custom bell housing.

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  • Chris401
    replied
    Going to be another month before I get back to work on it. I appreciate it and will post my results.

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  • FusionKing
    replied
    You can buy machinable nickel rod. My wife sells it at her auto parts store. Forney makes it.
    When I had the machine shop I've built up block corners and such with both nickel and 309 stainless. Used a plain old AC buzz box.
    Done half a hole dozens of times. Small block chevies get starter boss chunks broke off fairly regular in these parts.
    Back then I also brazed cracks and such on junkier cast with silicone bronze and used a cutting torch head. Prep, preheat, braze, post-heat, grind.
    Now days we build up cast usually with silicone bronze and tig.
    I don't seek out that work anymore but it still trickles in once in a while. mostly on inboard boat engines because we only weld on boats.
    Those old Ford blocks were pretty good metal, so it should weld nice

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Cool man, let me know how it turns out.

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  • Chris401
    replied
    Thanks, With fuesd metals I was not going to try it free handed. There is a machinist down the road that should be able to do it on a lathe. He took one of these engines and made a little 550 ci. Would like to see what it does once the cam situation is worked out.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    You’re right, OGD.

    Chris, I have drilled and tapped partially in both before and you’re right, it could walk into the softer material. Somehow, I managed to keep it inline as far as I could tell, but that job was a set screw, so the location wasn’t that critical. I have welded cast iron with nickel rod but never done build up with nickel rod. I have drilled through some nickel rod and it was not a pleasant job, that stuff is hard. I would recommend a cobalt drill and go easy. But if you screw it up you could always fill it back in with braze metal and give it a go again. You may need to use a stubby bit like a hougen style but on a mag drill or even in a drill press, or better yet, a vertical mill. Something to keep it all from moving. Might consider having a machine shop do it.

    Tapping a hole in that bronze feels very “gummy” to me, very much different than cast.

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  • Oldgrandad
    replied
    Franz and Ryan take you THING out back and beat the tar out of each other, shake hands and be done with it. PLEASE! Not conducive to a good thread with real questions that need real answers. Fusion king NICE idea with using a stud. I was going to suggest a little ni rod but really don't like welding on old blocks that aren't already cracked.

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  • Chris401
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post

    It seems to me you’re asking how to build up that area off the block to have enough metal to drill into. I’ve done a few build ups for things needing holes drilled and tapped, but never an engine block. But I can’t really see the difference other than making sure the back is decked off flat. Assuming it’s cast iron, the only material I’d recommend, and what has worked for me in the past, is tig braze aluminum bronze on AC. You’ll need AC because of the aluminum content of the filler. Work slow enough to heat the base metal and flow the filler but not enough to melt the base metal. Once you get the base pad flowed onto the block, the build up will be so easy you could probably get your 10 year old nephew to do it.
    I added more pictures to the MEL Engine Forum. There is less block to work with than I remembered. Is the tig brazed aluminum softer than the cast iron? Due to the new hole location the drill big would likely walk into the softer metal. It if it would hold with a bolt split between fuesd metals it should work.

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  • Chris401
    replied
    I put some new pictures up. There is less block centered on the bolt than what I remembered. I had considered a stud there. Although it would be a pain to deal with when on a complete truck it is an option.

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  • FusionKing
    replied
    Travis,
    Sorry I just seen this. This is the kind of stuff I cut my teeth on years ago.
    I love what you're doing here.
    I would personally cut the corner of and use the FE stuff if it will work. By that I question if the balance on the FE and the Lincoln is the same. If there are no external weights on either automatic flywheels then you should be ok, or if they match also.

    That being said I would carefully drill and tap that hole and use a stud not a bolt. Just make sure its in tight. That would be much stronger for you application even if you did the build up.
    I have built up places like that with either the bronze or many times with nickel rod too. But if you use the stud you may completely dodge a bullet here anyways.
    Hope you see this....good luck

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
    Because you couldn’t make it as professional, maybe nobody would hire you, maybe you couldn’t pass the test....just be proud of whatever it is you’re good at. That’s all.
    Sorry little IAFF W-2 fellow, you're wrong again.
    City refused to allow me to write the test on the grounds they wouldn't accept a man who walked and climbed with a gimp stick.
    They were also very intolerant of returning Nam Vets in the 70s, part of a national attitude.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Because you couldn’t make it as professional, maybe nobody would hire you, maybe you couldn’t pass the test....just be proud of whatever it is you’re good at. That’s all.

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
    Don’t be jealous volley.
    What's to be jealous of Union Civil Service W-2 boy?

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Don’t be jealous volley.

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
    Ya sure, that totally sounds like a time saver. Make a mold out of clay....probably at least 30 seconds for Franz, a week for everyone else. Fire off some thermite on the side of your engine block....what could possibly go wrong? I mean, thermite only melts rail road tracks together. Considering you only need something built up about the size of a half dollar, you should totally do this. It would be like driving a thumb tack with a freight train, and who doesn’t want to do that? But....it would be an adventure.
    Shall I just interpret that to mean "I Ryan have never done a Thermite weld, I have no idea of the process or hos it's done thousands of times each day, but since I have a bugle in each hand I just gotta blow"?
    Ever walk along a rail and notice the jumpers welded at the joints with Thermite gobs about the size of a half inch nut? Pretty safe bet you never welded a ground wire to the ground rod in a porcelain cup about the size of a shot glass.

    Funny thing is if I wasn't 99% confident I could make the weld I wouldn't have mentioned it 2bugles, but you go right ahead and de-enlighten the masses.
    I'll even set up a ground connection and fire it if you promise to pee in the cup while it's burning.

    Honestly, how many EEOC and Military points did you use to get the 2 bugles?

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