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tear drop camper project

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Look handy and cheap enough to have a few boxed up on the shelf. I’ll cheap em out. Thanks.

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Thesuns (Texican word) what I been playing with.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-T10-Fest....c100012.m1985

    You could easily run 10 of them 12 hours on 3 LI cells and have power left.
    The cob emitter is coated with a soft clear plastic that pretty much renders the emitter rainproof.

    I been playing with the 120 volt units replacing Quartz lights in portables, nore light for less watts and less heat thrown off too.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    LEDs are nice. All the lights in this trailer are LED. Some are COB, and some have LED replacement bulbs. I need to change over the lights in my class C to LED.

    With the teardrops, you can go crazy adding this and that, but honestly, it’s just a rigid tent you pull behind your Jeep. They’re intent was to be minimalist. There are some that have vestibules around the galley or the sides, and they’re cool, but you can’t have everything. It would be my assumption that a guy that builds a teardrop doesn’t build it to stay in/around it for his whole camping trip, but merely uses it as a camp and a place to sleep in comfort.

    I really like that boot, it has three separate locks on it. I have a small hitch lock as well, but those are only part of it. I also lock the safety chains to the back of the spare tire rack so someone can’t snatch it by the chains and be gone in seconds. And here at the house, I have three other small trailers....they’re all chained together.

    My hitch lock is one I bought at the hardware store. I didn’t have a piece of pipe big enough to build one that slips over the pointy end, so I did the fastest thing I could.

    These days, most (at least ours are) fire truck cabinet doors are roll up style. Keeps the new drivers from impaling them into the side of the bay door.

    What’s these LEDs you speak of? Are they in a housing or ruggedized or what?

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Looking good, but I gotta ask, are there side flys for the kitchen area? Maybe a complete surround for nasty days.
    Where are the EXTINGUISHERS & crash ax?
    Are you going to install a skull/cabinet interface impact diminisher on that cabinet?

    Those doors look like about the same as on fire truck cabinets.

    Love DasBoot. Do you have a coupler access denial box too?

    I can hook you up with nice LED emitters size of a postage stamp about 3/16 thick that draw next to nothing on 12 volts and throw tons of light and cost under a buck per emitter.. LED gets better by the day.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Interior. The little roll up doors are super cool and very easy to install. I got them from an outfit in England. I had some wood ones but they had a spring you have to wrap around a dowel and they were just far more complex, good quality, but much more labor intensive to install. I like to build things so they’re easy to repair if needed. If anyone is interested in those tambour (roll up) doors, let me know and I’ll send you the link. They say they can make any size.

    The AC is a 5k btu and is more than enough for that tiny space. The TV (for those nasty days when you’re stuck in a tiny camper) is a 20” smart TV....whatever that means. I only turned it on to make sure it powered up.

    The brown box is the electrical control panel. It charges the battery, converts 120v AC to 12v dc and distributes the 120v shore power to the three circuits on board. It’s pretty much the entry level model, but it was the smallest and cheapest at the RV supply locally.

    Above the brown box is a control panel I made that has a 12v power meter with an on/off button so you can use it as a night light or leave it off, a usb socket, a 12v socket and the AC cabinet ventilation fan override. This is southeast Texas, there is no doubt the temp inside that cabinet will get hot in the summer, even with everything off. So the vent fan is operated off an adjustable 12v thermostat and this switch will bypass that for when the trailer is sitting and you don’t want to run your batter down. It’s hard to see, but I had laser engraving done on the control panel that labels the spots and gives a warning to not operate the AC with the override in the off position.

    The front is some stretchy net stuff I bought in bulk and cut the sizes I needed for those cubby holes. In the middle is a 750 watt heater/fan and it’s 120v socket behind it. That net comes completely out so it’s not in the way of the heating elements. That’s probably the fireman coming out.

    The fan in the ceiling is frickin awesome. If any of you guys have an RV, replace those junky vent fans with these, they really move the air!

    The floor is just a wood grain linoleum.

    The walls are FRP and the trim is oak.

    Not much room for a hot tub or a dining room table, so that’s pretty much it.
    Attached Files

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Some more pictures....saddlebags notwithstanding.
    Attached Files

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Got thinking about the shepherd's wagon Engels rebuilt. You could make saddlebags for yours and even use 1 for an external water tank.

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  • Ltbadd
    replied
    That's quite the project, looks really good, waiting to see the inside. Nice job Ryan

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    In hind sight, I would not have used double 3/4 on the floor, but I was spending so much time figuring out what I wanted and how others are made and looked at commercially available ones, etc. I had the foam board and I had the plywood, so that’s what I went with. To do it again, I would utilize that space under the floor for a purpose, like dry storage or a water tank.

    The metal frame is fairly light weight, so I wanted to add some rigidity to the whole thing and I had already settled on a dead tree carcass frame. Again, I already had the plywood. I attempted to buy some composite boards for the sides, but the salesmen didn’t want to deal with some schmuck that just wanted to buy two sheets and it was pretty expensive.

    As far as keeping it cool....it’s so small, that 5,000 btu AC pretty much turns it into a meat locker.

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  • Franz©
    replied
    Gotta ask, why plywood walls? Double 3/4 floor and plywood walls + mucho extra weight.
    Weight = expense.

    Have you got a commercial lath & plaster supplier in the area? Look for lather channel, both 3/4 and 1.5" massive strength and easy to form & weld.
    1.5" chanel + gussets + 1/8 Masonite with cloth & resin over top will withstand 80mph all day.

    You could probably mount a rubber bladder under the floor and turn the roof into a massive evap cooler. Wet roof on the coach usually meant only 1 AC unit had to run. Spraying the roof of my Astrovan sucked 15° out of the van and made the pup comfortable. Monster still loved to sit parked and con some woman into calling 911 for the canine in danger. I almost felt sorry for the cop standing downwind when the sprayer kicked.

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  • tarry99
    replied
    Very Nice!

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Thanks. After owning an RV, and anyone else that does, it’s easy to say that the commercially available campers are built like junk. Cheap, flimsy, junk. This one has some over-engineering in it, of course, and I think I tried to pay attention to details.

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  • Noel
    replied
    I looked on line in my area for tear drops after seeing the post and found a $2g unit, home built that you have far surpassed. A manufactured unit for $8g that yours is an equal to or possibly better. Sound like the inside is as nice as the outside. Well done.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    My original plan was to make one, learn the ins-n-outs, sell it and make another one out of all aluminum, frame and all.

    This one is a 4x8. I think a 5x8 or 5x10 would be most excellent.

    This one has a steel frame and a wood body. The floor is a double sheet of 3/4” plywood with foam insulation between them. The walls are solid 3/4” plywood and the rest is hollow with r-13 insulation, luan (inside and out), FRP on the inside and .040 aluminum on the outside.

    Weighs 1,120 lbs empty. Tongue weight is 190 lbs. 5,000 btu AC, maxxair vent fan, 20” smart TV and oak trim inside. I’ll get some pictures of the inside one of these days. It turned out pretty good I think, for my first try at one.

    No water tanks, but it has a hookup for the sink and a drain, cable TV jack (not sure why you’d need that, but who knows) and a Coleman 2 burner stove.

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  • Noel
    replied
    Looks very nicely done. I'd keep it... unless you plan on building another off what you learned in building this one, keep it around. On the off chance you find your self sharing the dogs house, you'll both be happier with the up grade.

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