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Mounting I-beam and chainfall over lathe

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  • Mounting I-beam and chainfall over lathe

    Back in May I welded together a super structure that attaches to the joists and sticks through the ceiling drywall to support an I-beam. Once I move the lathe, the I-beam will be directly over my lathe. The I-beam will support a chainfall that will be used to lift heavy chucks and tailstocks for the lathe. Below is a link to the project to weld and install the superstructure.

    https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...ry-above-lathe

    Now that the drywall has been installed, this project documents the process to install the I-beam on the superstructure.

    The first picture shows a SolidWorks picture of the support structure weldment.

    1. Isometric assembly
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    The next picture is an exploded view of the support structure weldment shown above.

    2. Exploded assembly
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    The following picture shows the cross beam with "hockey pucks" that will stick through the drywall to provide support for the I-beam.

    3. Exploded cross beam
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    This picture shows the drywall lifting rig that my friend Ray brought over to be used to lift the 4" x 12' pieces of drywall for the ceiling. If you look closely you can see the support structure weldments in the ceiling

    4. Lifting 4ft x12ft Drywall
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    I inserted threaded rods that were sharpened to a point into the "hockey pucks" of the cross beam of the support structure weldment. The threaded rods were used to mark the back side of the drywall with the location to hole saw clearance holes in the drywall to clear the round boss of the "hockey pucks". As you can see in the following picture the holes in the drywall aligned perfectly with the boss of the "hockey pucks".

    5. Threaded Points to mark hole location
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    Miller Thunderbolt
    Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
    Miller Dynasty 200DX
    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
    Lincoln LE 31 MP
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
    16" DuAll Saw
    15" Drill Press
    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
    20 Ton Arbor Press
    Bridgeport

  • #2
    My nephew Phil came over from Arizona for a visit and he helped me to set up the spacing of the chainfall.

    6. Setting spacers on chainfall
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    The next picture shows using a manual fork lift to lift the I-beam and chain fall into position.

    7. Lifting I-beam into place
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    Next Phil tightened the 7/16" screws to attach the mounting plate of the I-beam to
    the "hockey pucks" of the cross beam of the support structure weldment.

    8. Tightening Bolts
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    The last step was trying out the chainfall. As you can see I will have to shorten the drive chains.

    9. Trying out the chainfall
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    -Don




    Miller Thunderbolt
    Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
    Miller Dynasty 200DX
    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
    Lincoln LE 31 MP
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
    16" DuAll Saw
    15" Drill Press
    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
    20 Ton Arbor Press
    Bridgeport

    Comment


    • #3
      I did one over my mill..........helps to get anything heavy up there , like a part, vise or rotary table..attached to a wood beam.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sweet, especially the free labor from the young buck.

        Might I humbly suggest some maple blocks on both sides of the beam web bolted thru the web to serve as ABSOLUTE stops for the trolly. Those things hurt a lot when they come off track even if you're wearing a hard hat. Also take chunks out of concrete.

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice work Don....and Tarry.

          What lathe are you moving under that I-beam?

          A friend of mine down the road has a monster LaBlonde lathe he wants me to help him build a swing arm for this very set up. His lathe is up against a wall and his shop is a tall steel frame building. We'll see what we come up with.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Franz© View Post
            Sweet, especially the free labor from the young buck.

            Might I humbly suggest some maple blocks on both sides of the beam web bolted thru the web to serve as ABSOLUTE stops for the trolley. Those things hurt a lot when they come off track even if you're wearing a hard hat. Also take chunks out of concrete.
            Originally I had a nut and bolt on each end of the I-beam to keep it from running off the end of the track. Based on your input I decided to do a higher quality job using a block instead. It also gave me an opportunity to demonstrate machining on the milling machine for my nephew Phil, who is just starting his Junior year in Mechanical Engineering.

            10. Machining the block on the Mill
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            11. One of the machined block
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            12. Phil installing the block
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            13. The block installed
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            -Don


            Miller Thunderbolt
            Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
            Miller Dynasty 200DX
            Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
            Lincoln LE 31 MP
            Lincoln 210 MP
            Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
            16" DuAll Saw
            15" Drill Press
            7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
            20 Ton Arbor Press
            Bridgeport

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
              Nice work Don....and Tarry.

              What lathe are you moving under that I-beam?

              A friend of mine down the road has a monster LaBlonde lathe he wants me to help him build a swing arm for this very set up. His lathe is up against a wall and his shop is a tall steel frame building. We'll see what we come up with.
              I plan on moving my 15" Clausing Colchester Lathe. Currently it is in the unheated 2 car garage. I will move it to the new addition, which is already heated and air conditioned. Being the worlds slowest contractor I am just passing two years since I broke ground on the addition. I am however making slow progress. For example yesterday Phil and I installed 23 of the LED lights in the ceiling of the addition.

              14. Clausing Colchester 15 inch Lathe
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              Miller Thunderbolt
              Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
              Miller Dynasty 200DX
              Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
              Lincoln LE 31 MP
              Lincoln 210 MP
              Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
              16" DuAll Saw
              15" Drill Press
              7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
              20 Ton Arbor Press
              Bridgeport

              Comment


              • #8
                Sorry Don, you made some fine looking blocks there, and hood work teaching the young Buck how the world really works, but based on the teachings of Buster Randt Professor of Millwright Emaritus and probably resting in peach now, them *&%$%*& blocks gotta be Maple. !@$^&(*$ metal blocks crack the ())_&% wheel and you wind up bustin yer A$$ at the worst possible time working around a problem you could have prevented. Oak soaks up moisture and spalls off and next thing yer wearing the *())^ hoist for a hat. Buster was Unforgiving, unyielding and usually right. I recall his teachings often.

                He and I built some very successful tools on company time, and cleaned out everything worth hauling out of the old shop.

                While you got the kid handy you might educate him up on cleaning the chip pan out without cutting fingers as well. He'll be the smartest kid in his class when he goes back.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Nice machine Don. I have a chance to get my hands on a 19" summit lathe. Might be a big too big for my shop. It would be a shame to let this deal go though.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Franz© View Post
                    Sorry Don, you made some fine looking blocks there, and hood work teaching the young Buck how the world really works, but based on the teachings of Buster Randt Professor of Millwright Emaritus and probably resting in peach now, them *&%$%*& blocks gotta be Maple. !@$^&(*$ metal blocks crack the ())_&% wheel and you wind up bustin yer A$$ at the worst possible time working around a problem you could have prevented. Oak soaks up moisture and spalls off and next thing yer wearing the *())^ hoist for a hat. Buster was Unforgiving, unyielding and usually right. I recall his teachings often.

                    He and I built some very successful tools on company time, and cleaned out everything worth hauling out of the old shop.

                    While you got the kid handy you might educate him up on cleaning the chip pan out without cutting fingers as well. He'll be the smartest kid in his class when he goes back.
                    Franz,
                    When Phil put all of the extra spacers on the outside of two shafts, the hole for the cotter pin in one shaft missed the slots in the castle nut because the rod was a little too long, so the cotter pin wouldn't actually retain the castle nut. The washers were non-standard because the ID was very close to the OD, so I quickly made one on my lathe. The home made washer looked like it belonged. Phil was amazed how quickly I made the parts with the quick change tooling for the lathe. I told him that once you are familiar with a new tool such as a lathe, you can think in terms of using it. It would be equivalent to how automatic it is for Phil to use a drill motor and drill bit. You pick it up and use it, without thinking about the process too much. I was glad that I was able to demonstrate both the lathe and the mill to Phil on this project.

                    In this case the block hits the carriage of the chainfall not the wheel, so I'm not sure how the wheel would be damaged when the carriage hit the stop block. The linear motion of the carriage is controlled by the chain, which is very geared down, so it moves very slowly (about 2 inches/sec). I can't imagine any damage resulting from the carriage softly bumping the steel stop block. I design industrial robots and rail systems for a living and we typically will put rubber bumpers or hydraulic shock absorbers on the stop blocks on the end of the rail to limit the force transmitted to the stop block. The bumpers are designed to limit the force of a full speed collision to a value that the hardware can accommodate. Below is a side view of the stop block that you can better see the relationship between the bracket on the end of the carriage and the stop block.

                    15. Carriage hitting stop block
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                    Thank you for all of your comments. It makes the thread more interesting.

                    -Don

                    Miller Thunderbolt
                    Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
                    Miller Dynasty 200DX
                    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
                    Lincoln LE 31 MP
                    Lincoln 210 MP
                    Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
                    16" DuAll Saw
                    15" Drill Press
                    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
                    20 Ton Arbor Press
                    Bridgeport

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
                      Nice machine Don. I have a chance to get my hands on a 19" summit lathe. Might be a big too big for my shop. It would be a shame to let this deal go though.
                      I had the same concern when I picked up the 15" lathe. To solve the problem I picked up a Jacob Rubber Flex chuck and collet set for it. I can easilly hold parts that are a little under 1/16" diameter with it. I also purchased an ER collet chuck and collet set for it, but I haven't machined a D1-6 backing plate for it yet. I figured that I could pick up a small lathe if I really required it, but so far it isn't necessary.

                      -Don
                      Miller Thunderbolt
                      Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
                      Miller Dynasty 200DX
                      Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
                      Lincoln LE 31 MP
                      Lincoln 210 MP
                      Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
                      16" DuAll Saw
                      15" Drill Press
                      7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
                      20 Ton Arbor Press
                      Bridgeport

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This guy has two SB 10", an atlas 10" and an old Logan he wants to pass on somewhere too. I think he'll keep the Logan because it seems he's emotionally attached to it. It has a sweet 6 jaw chuck on it too. He also has a brown and sharps horizontal mill and two or three Bridgeports he's not using any more. He wants some room for a shear and a brake. I told him we just need to put a gantry crane in his shop.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Don you got a beamrider there and it looks like enough wheels got busted on conventional beam trollys for somebody to reengineer for bumpers and less lost headroom.

                          Of course you take that same device into a beer foundry and within hours somebody will find a way to club it into submission to their will.

                          One of my collectibles is a WW-2 vintage tool/part lifter that was designed for speed rather than safety. The design allowed the object to be lifted onto a bench & lowered by the user just slacking grip on the hand chain. Rating is only 500# but it's the hoist everybody grabs because it's small and light. Nobody listens and there is a lot of yelling when it don't hold what's hanging.

                          Looks like you got a chance with Phil, hopefully he's one who wants to learn and he'll be worth something. Any more I'm wondering what language most of the kids think they're speaking. I got no reference to Ratatatt & sharp thing.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Franz© View Post
                            Don you got a beamrider there and it looks like enough wheels got busted on conventional beam trollys for somebody to reengineer for bumpers and less lost headroom.
                            While they do protect the wheels from the stops those turned in ends are there to catch the carriage with a minimum of drop should there be an axle failure on the carriage.

                            ---Meltedmetal

                            ---Meltedmetal

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I think you made the best dadgum trolley stop ever, Don.

                              On my overhead, I figured the bolt heads in the knee braces at the ends would keep the trolley in check, I was wrong. Stupid thing jumps right over top of that sapsucker. Then I have to get on a ladder and climb up there and back it over top of that bolt head. I think a simple c-clamp would suffice under the tremendous load. But, I may take one of those bolts out, flip her over and thread a coupler on it for the nut. Should be plenty. It's not holding back the 10th Mongolian horde.

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