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Muffler Repair For My Friend John

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  • Muffler Repair For My Friend John

    My friend John helped me extensively with my garage addition. The nipple of his one month old muffler from his lawn mower pulled out of the muffler can.

    1. Nipple broke off muffler
    Click image for larger version  Name:	1. Nipple broke off muffler.jpg Views:	0 Size:	48.2 KB ID:	598220

    It appeared to be a design problem. When they tapped the rolled over collar of the can the tap nearly cut entirely through the sheet metal of the collar of the can. With the vibration of the mower the can broke off completely.

    2. Thin Shell of can broke off
    Click image for larger version  Name:	2. Thin Shell of can broke off.jpg Views:	0 Size:	56.3 KB ID:	598221

    I decided to replace the nipple so that I could weld to a solid nipple instead of the old threaded nipple with a thin collar of sheet metal on it. The first step was to cut off the threads of the replacement nipple, using the parting tool on the lathe.

    3. Cutting off nipple threads
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    4. Nipple threads cut off
    Click image for larger version  Name:	4. Nipple threads cut off.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.3 KB ID:	598223

    5. Original and replacement nipple
    Click image for larger version  Name:	5. Original and replacement nipple.jpg Views:	0 Size:	57.6 KB ID:	598224
    Last edited by Don52; 06-20-2019, 07:35 PM.
    Miller Thunderbolt
    Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
    Miller Dynasty 200DX
    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
    Lincoln LE 31 MP
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
    16" DuAll Saw
    15" Drill Press
    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
    20 Ton Arbor Press
    Bridgeport

  • #2

    The muffler can was just painted (not zinc plated or galvanized), so it was easy to remove the paint with a wire brush. I also power wire brushed the black oxide from the OD of the black pipe nipple.

    6. Cleaned up and ready for welding
    Click image for larger version  Name:	6. Cleaned up and ready for welding.jpg Views:	0 Size:	41.4 KB ID:	598226

    I welded some nubs on the nipple to keep it from falling into the can.

    7. Welded numbs to support nipple in can
    Click image for larger version  Name:	7. Welded numbs to support nipple in can.jpg Views:	0 Size:	66.4 KB ID:	598227

    The bore was a little banged up from movement during the failure so I had to rotate the nipple until it sat perpendicular to the face of the can. I tack welded the nipple to the can and then I welded it out.

    8. Nipple welded to can
    Click image for larger version  Name:	8. Nipple welded to can.jpg Views:	0 Size:	52.1 KB ID:	598228

    I believe that it will last much longer than the original, which had the can that was weakened by the tapping process.

    -Don
    Miller Thunderbolt
    Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
    Miller Dynasty 200DX
    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
    Lincoln LE 31 MP
    Lincoln 210 MP
    Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
    16" DuAll Saw
    15" Drill Press
    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
    20 Ton Arbor Press
    Bridgeport

    Comment


    • #3
      Good work, Don.

      Nice collets in the lathe too. Metal or rubber/metal collets?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
        Good work, Don.

        Nice collets in the lathe too. Metal or rubber/metal collets?
        They are Jacob Rubber Flex collets. They make my 15” lathe act like a much smaller lathe.

        -Don
        Miller Thunderbolt
        Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
        Miller Dynasty 200DX
        Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
        Lincoln LE 31 MP
        Lincoln 210 MP
        Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
        16" DuAll Saw
        15" Drill Press
        7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
        20 Ton Arbor Press
        Bridgeport

        Comment


        • #5
          I frickin love those Jacobs flex collets.

          Super accurate too.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
            I frickin love those Jacobs flex collets.

            Super accurate too.
            For those that aren't familiar with Jacob Rubber Flex collets, they have steel blades separated by rubber. The advantage is that they are similar to ER collets because they can accommodate the entire range of possible shaft sizes instead of a few thousands on either side of the nominal, which is the case for the 5C collets. As you mentioned the runout is typically less then .0005". It is also easier to do manual operations such as sanding or filing becasue there are no chuck jaws to avoid. Here is a picture of two boxes of collets plus the chuck. Besides no longer being available from Jacobs, they are not as rigid as the 5C or ER collets. In spite of these shortcomings, I have one and use it all the time.

            14. Jacob Rubber Flex D1-6 chuck
            Click image for larger version  Name:	14. Jacob Rubber Flex D1-6 chuck.jpg Views:	0 Size:	30.9 KB ID:	598346

            Below you can see the bars of the D1-6 style chuck mount, which retain the chuck against the taper of the spindle of the lathe. The bars also allow you to turn parts with the spindle going in reverse, without the chuck un-screwing, which was a problem with my old lathe..

            15. Bars of D1-6 chuck
            Click image for larger version  Name:	15. Bars of D1-6 chuck.jpg Views:	0 Size:	37.9 KB ID:	598347
            -Don
            Last edited by Don52; 06-23-2019, 01:24 PM.
            Miller Thunderbolt
            Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
            Miller Dynasty 200DX
            Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
            Lincoln LE 31 MP
            Lincoln 210 MP
            Clausing/Colchester 15" Lathe
            16" DuAll Saw
            15" Drill Press
            7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
            20 Ton Arbor Press
            Bridgeport

            Comment

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