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need some plastic bonding advice

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  • need some plastic bonding advice

    Calling on the deep wisdom of all things manly that exist in this forum, I need some help with bonding some plastic together.

    One piece is definitely pvc, the other is unknown. I believe it to be polyethylene, and that would be the worst case scenario. So glueing a 1 1/2" pvc pipe into this "unknown" filter housing with all purpose plastic pipe cement, allowing it to fully cure, resulted in the pipe pulling out with very little effort.

    Through my research so far, I've located a few possible adhesives that may work and would like to know if any of you have experience with any of them or with conditions similar to mine and found a suitable solution. Here's the adhesives:

    3M DP8010 structural adhesive

    Permabond 4605 or 4610

    West Systems G-Flex 655

    The conditions present will be continuous submersion in water at a temperature not to exceed 104 degree F. I don't really care how much the adhesive costs, I just need to get this sap sucker to hold...forever.

    Thanks guys.

  • #2

    Loctite says this stuff will stick polyethylene, polypropylene and PTFE teflon together

    For $10, it might be worth the gamble.

    I am tempted to buy some to stick a poly funnel to my non-stick fry pan.

    Plastics are amazing and puzzling.
    There are squeegees used in the screen print industries which will stand up to solvent based inks
    and will withstand cleaning with MEK and acetone but the same squeegees will degrade
    in water and are not suitable for water based inks. For those inks, plain rubber works fine.
    Miller Dynasty 350, Dynasty 210 DX, Hypertherm 1000, Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, etc.

    Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !


    • #3
      I would suggest PC-7 epoxy paste. I have used it on all kinds of plastic and metal with great success. Never had anything come apart yet. PC even has an epoxy that can be applied to wet surfaces or even under water.


      • #4
        Devcon plastic welder. Use it all the time for situations like yours, and have for almost 20 years.
        "Better Metalworking Through Research"

        Miller Dynasty 300DX
        Miller Dynasty 200DX
        Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
        Miller Millermatic Passport

        Miller Spot Welder
        Motor-Guard stud welder

        Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)


        • #5
          I'm going to take a look at all those products, thanks guys. I even have some PC-7 out in the shop. Something interesting I've found is that it seems the really important information is left off the packaging. Take the JB Weld marine weld product. I was looking at it in the hardware store today. I figured **** ya, I'll JB weld dadgum thing together and it'll be there forever! Took a quick look on their website, says specifically not compatible with polyethylene. They just so happen to leave that tid bit of important information off the packaging on the store shelf. Glad I researched it.


          • #6
            Any success? What did you end up using?


            • #7
              I haven't had a chance to finish my research. Been tied up with a repair on an aluminum golf cart frame. Three days to fix what the dummy did in five minutes. Just a hunch, but if you cut the web and top plate off the frame, which is an aluminum I-beam, your golf cart will bend in half. Not really sure why he was shocked by this move. He was trying to fit a beer cooler under the seat, and well, those pesky frame rails were in his way. But that's what a grinder is for!

              I'll post back with my chosen libation and whether or not it actually works. If not, I think I'll shoot some holes in it.


              • #8
                Thanks for the suggestions on adhesives, I'm going to follow up with Loctite tomorrow regarding their plastic bonding system. It is a cyanoacrylate and I'm concerned that it won't be well suited for gap filling. Since this is a pipe into a socket, there will be some sort of a gap to fill.

                I can't find the info I need about the PC-7, so I'll also call protective coatings tomorrow and see what they say. It looks promising and I already have it.

                The devcon plastic weld says it is not suited for polyethylene, which is what I believe one of the plastics to be. If something will glue polyethylene, then it will most likely adhere to any other plastic. I'm preparing for the worst.

                The manufacturers for the products I've listed I've already spoke to and all three are positive their product will work.

                It's been a frustrating problem, but I'll be that much smarter by the end of it all. Hopefully my solution will help someone else down the road.


                • #9
                  Talked to the owner of tap plastics this morning, they make the devcon plastic welder. He doubts this is polyethylene, but of course can't be sure. He recommended testing some epoxies on the side of the housing and see what happens. Not sure why I didn't think of that. Probably because I'm not really interested in screwing around and just want someone to advise me what to use. That's the lazy side of me I guess.

                  Also talked to the guys that make pc-7. Very helpful. He agreed with the test and actually recommended the 3M product I listed as the atomic bomb of plastic adhesives. So if my test doesn't go well, I think I'll go that route instead of trying this and that.


                  • #10
                    Finally, an answer to the make up if the housing....fiberglass reinforced polypropylene.

                    Changing gears and hunting the product for that plastic to pvc.


                    • #11
                      It's just never easy....


                      • #12
                        Went with the 3M DP8010 for the following reasons:

                        Ease of application, it has a mixing tip and dispensing gun. Both sold separately, of course.

                        But the big reason is several competitors of 3M recommended it.

                        However, with all the trouble I've had, my confidence for a successful repair is not high. I applied a little extra to a test spot so I can actually see how it chooched.

                        We shall see.