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  • #16
    Starting to cut the door out enough to weld on the hinges. It's slow going with a grinder and cut-off wheel, but it does make very clean cuts.

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    • #17
      Progress from Last Saturday... Door has hinges tack welded and the door is fully cutout and opens and closes.

      https://www.dropbox.com/sc/x4k32yj8m...qGx7JC4zNpE6ua

      https://www.dropbox.com/sc/u6kcue5un...pc5eFiQ_E0agxa

      https://www.dropbox.com/sc/7eiocxxdg...OTwgng0BL5H-Ua

      Hope to put 1/4" flat strap trim on the interior frame so the door can shut against it. Plus will stiffen up the door frame some for added pry resistance.

      Haven't found much in the way of rod material that I could use as moving dead bolts. So thinking about using some flat strap as the locking bars instead of round rod like pretty much every safe seems to use.

      Any thoughts for or against using flat strap as the locking mechanism to engage behind the door frame?

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      • #18
        I don't think the flat bar will be as strong as the round stock unless it's some pretty skookum flat bar. But any sort of string box with moderate security will keep most unwanted access at bay. <br />
        <br />
        Plan to send it out for powder coating when you're done? Any plan for fire rating? <br />
        <br />
        What lock are you planning to use. I wonder if you can even buy a locking mechanism for a safe....probably can. I've never looked.

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        • #19
          Will not be powder coating it. Just spray paint out of a can. While the company I work for does powder coating, I don't have that ability at home and would hate to find out what it would cost me.

          Finally getting the welds how I like them. Guess I'm just getting use to the machine again and to welding in general again.
          Down hill Mig 18.4V 265ipm on 3/16" corner joint. About half way through the weld I thought I was welding too wide, so narrowed my joint to impart less heat on the box.

          https://www.dropbox.com/sc/m3cagagkv...q-HLUmPFPMsfGa

          Was planning on using five 4" x 1/4" flat straps to engage and lock the door behind the door frame. 3 on the sides and 1 top and 1 bottom.

          Had planned to use a gear rack drive like this:

          https://www.amazon.com/Martin-R2020X...ords=gear+rack

          https://www.amazon.com/Martin-TS2025...2QDZKFNX10V7QA

          Was planning on something like this for the lock. This places has everything you need for your own safe.

          http://mbausa.com/s-g-titan-direct-d...kage-complete/

          Was even thinking about adding 1 or possibly 2 relockers. Already have some 5/8" rod and got some springs now.

          I have 2 new problems now.

          #1 - I may not have gotten the barrel hinges on perfectly aligned and now with them welded solid and all the welding around the inside of the box for trim, the door is hard to open past the midway point. The door opens fine until around 80 to 90 degrees it is tough, then once past the hard spot it gets easy again? Trying to figure out the best way to fix this since my wife already asked, "is it always going to be this hard to open?" ... (bashes head against wall)...

          #2 - My time working on this is limited to only Saturdays and part of Sundays... however the wife is getting impatient and wants this finished so I can then finish her pantry. She's wanting me to simplify it and finish it sooner rather than putting in all the locking mechanism stuff I'm wanting.

          So i'm torn between finishing it the way I want it and knowing it is secure. Or making it a simpler lock box with maybe a master lock on the exterior and then putting the so called "gym locker" from my first posts inside of this box...?

          Last edited by clint738; 02-27-2017, 09:42 AM.

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          • #20
            You're in a tight spot....first on the hinges, I'd say you're probably right on them being skosh off. Cut them off and redo them. I normally say everything is fixed with a hammer, but I don't think that would help you in either of these cases...<br />
            <br />
            Can't advise you on how to handle your wife, brother. You know what's best on that. I would just finish the safe how I wanted to finish the safe. I think it's a cool project and I'd like to see how you make that lock mechanism work.

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            • #21
              Finally figured out get my dropbox photos to show up directly in the forum without having to click on links and jump back and forth from different pages.

              Here is the vertical down hill joint I did last. Getting to where I'm pretty pleased with the Mig now, but have to keep reminding myself to stop welding or the project will be warping like crazy.... Never had that problem with stick since well... you run out of stick.



              Down hill Mig 18.4V 265ipm on 3/16" corner joint. About half way through the weld I thought I was welding too wide, so narrowed my joint to impart less heat on the box. Was pretty impressed with myself that I kept the width pretty consistent both on the wide and then the narrow sections.

              Now that I have the issue with the door, if I do cut the welds off the hinges... it is a LOT of weld to cut. I'll get a pic when I next get a chance.

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              • #22
                Cool project. I have been kicking the idea of welding up a firearms strong box for the back of the police car. A little peace of mind.


                i am considering a slide out drawer though as it will be horizontal.
                Last edited by SteelonSteel; 07-16-2018, 08:37 AM.

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                • #23
                  Very practical! Keep us posted!

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