New Spectrum 375

[lincrasto]

New Spectrum 375

They all have an internal regulator. The Xtreme just doesn't have an adjustment knob sticking out for you to twiddle with, the pressure's set. Which probably means it would last longer, if anything.
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Linc

WideCircles

[pegleg1]

Re:

I hope I can churp in on this.. I am a new member lurking mostly to learn more.

I just bought my spectrum 375 X-treme. I used it for the first time cutting flat stock for rafter hangers and it sure was sweet. But I got the the point I had to use a standoff roller guide. Only because I could not keep the gap rite. I was to high, just right, and to low. I think I will be ordering the drag sheild set also....

For my staight cuts on my 4" flat stock I also used a plastic rafter square as my guide.

It sure beats the Oxy or the right angle grinder for speed. I did have slag on the back do to the gap rising and lowering to much I think.... Quick griding off with a floppy disc on the grinder and that was all....

[harcosparky]

Nope, I ordered the drag tip/cup/shield from the same place I ordered the 375. All parts were genuin Miller parts.

OK, glad to know they were orded in addition to the stock unit.

I was gonna call Miller and ***** I was short changed!

Just keep in mind, dragging shortens consumable life.

[vtwin4life]

OK so what you are saying is " bone-stock " the 375 comes with a Drag Tip?

Nope, I ordered the drag tip/cup/shield from the same place I ordered the 375. All parts were genuin Miller parts.

[Fishy Jim]

I bought mine for a specific project, so I can look at my parts inventory and see exactly how much the consumables have gone through. Not that I'm keeping meticulous records, but more that I can simply see what's been done thus far.

I've been very pleased in the TD's performance. It's a time saver for sure.

[harcosparky]

How many feet of cuts have you been getting per tip and what thickness of material?

I'm approaching 100ft on my first electrode, and it's still not worn. Tip is the same thing. I have a 40A that I've been beating on and it's only slightly showing wear. Mostly 1/8" and 3/16" sheet, but I've also cut some 3/4" and expanded as well.

Honestly I have not kept a record. I've been cutting up a ton of stuff for the heck of it. ( to wear out the NOVELTY of having a new toy ) Now that we are through that phase I will keep track of plasma usage. Wont be hard to make a lil chart and keep it along side the cutter and 'try' to guage usage.

Thickness? Well lets say the first tip was used cutting the thickest and nastiest metal we could find ... even doubling up in some cases, just to see what would happen.

[Fishy Jim]

How many feet of cuts have you been getting per tip and what thickness of material?

I'm approaching 100ft on my first electrode, and it's still not worn. Tip is the same thing. I have a 40A that I've been beating on and it's only slightly showing wear. Mostly 1/8" and 3/16" sheet, but I've also cut some 3/4" and expanded as well.

[harcosparky]

By the way,

I love the 375 ...... we've gone through a tip or two just cutting up stuff for the fun of it.

When we wanted to remove to good lawn mower engines from trashed deck ...we just cut em out!

hahaha

[harcosparky]

My 375 is bone-stock, just got it a couple days ago. The drag tip, cup, and shield are Miller parts. There is no gap between the tip and the drag shield. I called Miller tech support yesterday with this exact same question. The technician was very helpful. He went and got all the parts to see for himself. The good news - he came up with exactly what I had - no standoff with all the drag parts. The bad news - no standoff with all the drag parts. He literally told me he didn't know what to say. Anyway, I have decided that I am going to unscrew the drag shield enough to give me 1/16" stand off and see if it works. I did it last night with the power turned off, and just dragged the tip to see if the loose drag shield would unscrew anymore, it didn't seem to, so I think this weekend I will try a live test.

Can't wait for Saturday for my electrician to install my 240v drop in my garage so I can really give this machine a good run. Quite frankly, this machine is probably way more than I needed, and beyond my skill level, but I'm hoping to catch up. And besides..... It's just sooooooo cool ;-)

OK so what you are saying is " bone-stock " the 375 comes with a Drag Tip?

On page 28 of the 375 Manual it shows a break-down of the torch tip end. It shows two sets of images one shows a Retaining Cup ( 202 808 ) and Tip ( 176656 ), it then shows a Drag Shield ( 225616 ) Retain Cup Drag Shield ( 225672 ) and Tip Drag Shield (225671 ). Numbers in brackets are Miller Part #.

I just got my 375 about 2 weeks ago and it did not include the drag tip.

When I look at the manual I can see that the Drag Shield mounts on to the front of the Drag Shield Retaining Cup - the Retaining cup is the large round cover that you remove to replace the tip and electrode. If the cup on your Torch is a 2 piece unit, cup/shield then I would say it is the Drag setup. If it is just a round fiber tubed with a brass threaded insert and tapered to a flat spot where the tip protrudes it is not a drag cup.

What is does not say is which configuration is STANDARD.

In the ICE 27C/T Consumables Kit sold by Miller that 202-808 Non-Drag Retaining Cup is included as well as the 176656 Tips and 175655 Electrodes.

Now according to miller web site the 375 cutting capacity is as follows.

Rated 5/16 Quality 3/8 Sever 1/2

Using a 1/16" Standoff it goes like this ...

Rated 3/8 Quality 1/2 Sever 5/8

I have included two photos .... cup1.jog shows the cup that comes with the 375 and also in the consumables kit. If yours looks like this, according to the manual it is not the Drag version.

cup2.jpg shows the part number on the tip of the cup as well as close of of the lip. If I had a Drag Ret Cup I would show that but I do not.

Hmmm a search brought up this link to a dard PDF file but it mentions the drag parts ( this is for the Extreme version but the Torch is the same and is shown on page 3 of the PDF )

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/spec_sheets/PC9-2.pdf

[Fishy Jim]

3390: Here's the drag tip for the 1Torch. You can see some of the air flow vents for cooling. The tip then tucks up inside this where it's protected from most of the blow back.

I used this inside an enclosed circle jig and that's why it's all crappy looking. The soot just wipes off.

3391: This is how the consumable tip comes off for replacement.

[flukecej]

Hypertherm makes all the hand held plasma torch handles for Miller. Looking at Hypertherms equipment, I suspect they make the Spectrum 125C and 375 for Miller as welll. Hypertherm does have some accessories that Miller doesn't have listed. The Hypertherm accessories that are identicle or nearly identicle are running about the same price or a little less than the equivalent Miller parts. The Hypertherm circle cutting guide cuts a bigger diameter circle than Miller and is significantly lower in price by the time you got all of the Miller parts to do the same thing. Miller seems to have some great partnerships for torch and gun handles for their gear.
Whatever you do, don't buy any Thermal Dynamic parts, guns, or gear for your Miller, others here on the forum have had problems mixing components. As long as you stay with Hypertherm/Miller you should be good on your parts and accessories.
As far as patterns go, making them from plywood or hardboard would be the way to go. I even saw one of the guys on CMT Trick My Truck use the flange from the light kit he was installing to cut the hole in the truck bumper. Fit perfectly.
Have fun with your new gear.

[Fishy Jim]

Thermal included all of that, and the stand off bracket for the non-drag tip.

The little parts kit included was actually rather well stocked.

[vtwin4life]

You might just want to make a bushing to take up the space between the drag tip and the cup. If I remember right, that piece is one of the spendier replacement items. It'd be a shame to lose it.

Great idea, I'll try that. You are right - drag cup, drag tips, and drag shield ran me about $80 all together. I'm a little disappointed that Miller sells parts that don't accomplish the single purpose for which they are intended.

[Fishy Jim]

You might just want to make a bushing to take up the space between the drag tip and the cup. If I remember right, that piece is one of the spendier replacement items. It'd be a shame to lose it.

[vtwin4life]

Called Miller tech support

My 375 is bone-stock, just got it a couple days ago. The drag tip, cup, and shield are Miller parts. There is no gap between the tip and the drag shield. I called Miller tech support yesterday with this exact same question. The technician was very helpful. He went and got all the parts to see for himself. The good news - he came up with exactly what I had - no standoff with all the drag parts. The bad news - no standoff with all the drag parts. He literally told me he didn't know what to say. Anyway, I have decided that I am going to unscrew the drag shield enough to give me 1/16" stand off and see if it works. I did it last night with the power turned off, and just dragged the tip to see if the loose drag shield would unscrew anymore, it didn't seem to, so I think this weekend I will try a live test.

Can't wait for Saturday for my electrician to install my 240v drop in my garage so I can really give this machine a good run. Quite frankly, this machine is probably way more than I needed, and beyond my skill level, but I'm hoping to catch up. And besides..... It's just sooooooo cool ;-)