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welding aluminum beer cans

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  • teknition
    started a topic welding aluminum beer cans

    welding aluminum beer cans

    I recently purchased a Miller Dynasty 200DX and want to practice welding thin aluminum.

    I figured welding beer cans would be good practice and the materials are cheap.

    The problem I'm having is that there are so many settings on the 200DX that I'm not sure where to set them all. It sure would be helpful if Miller included the recommended settings for various materials and thickness's in the owners manual and that they weren't generic but specific to the machine. I have their tig calculator but the 200DX has more settings than what are listed on the calculator.

    I've tried the lowest amperage setting and frequency set around 200 but I have to move excessively fast just to get it to not burn thru.

    Does anyone here have experience with welding something similar with a 200 DX and if so could you post all the settings as well as the tig rod size and tungsten size you are using?

    one more thing.....when im welding aluminum and dip the tig rod into the puddle, the outside of the tig rod is "gummy" when I take it out of the puddle. It stretches like gum and is quite irritating. Does anyone know how to cure this?
    Last edited by teknition; 08-30-2006, 09:55 PM. Reason: spelling correction

  • Sberry
    replied
    Rumor has it that Century used to have a factory rep that would weld those cans together with a 120V mig doing demonstrations.

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  • Rick Eis
    replied
    Welding cans with a 200dx

    OK...I have read this thread many times and found many ideas. But what I am looking for is a photo of the best weld with the detailed setting info etc that was used for that particular weld. So submit a photo with the detailed settings...thank you. Rick

    Leave a comment:


  • jontheturboguy
    replied
    I know Im digging up an old thread, but any body have any more pictures?

    I was thinking about trying this again, as over the weekend I saw one of the new Bud Lite Aluminum "bottles" and noticed how stout the aluminum was compared to a conventional can.

    Leave a comment:


  • vin-man welding
    replied
    so i bring the two cola cans welded together to a friend of mines shop.(not a welding shop). and it's funny how many people say how easy it is. then my friend tell's them to duplicate it and they stop telling. people are just amazing. if they now how to weld at lest they might know the cans are aluminum.

    Leave a comment:


  • On fire most of the time
    replied
    ...I never welded anything to it...props. I just ran the bead and tried to keep it consistent.

    Imma have to find myself a tig welder I can use, and keep playing around.

    Leave a comment:


  • Xwelder
    replied
    Originally posted by vin-man welding View Post
    Xwelder said the side was harder so here is my side shot. i have to weld some alum tomorrow so i used a piece of the stock. it's 1/8.
    the two holes are from the cup. (the sides sure are thin)

    That's impressive.

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  • vin-man welding
    replied
    Xwelder said the side was harder so here is my side shot. i have to weld some alum tomorrow so i used a piece of the stock. it's 1/8.
    the two holes are from the cup. (the sides sure are thin)
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • On fire most of the time
    replied
    Ive found that Monster cans work rather well...just scotch brite the paint off, and get bare alum...go to town.

    I used an 1/8th" 2% thoriated electrode, used some 1/16th" rod (3003 I think), and set max at 15 amps. On a Lincoln. Gas flow was about 10cfh.

    Ive tried welding cans the same way with a miller...doesn't seem to work as well, but again, so many settings I had no clue where to put them all.

    The best bead I ever had was on one of the 24oz'ers and I ran from the top ridge to about an inch from the bottom before I finally burned through. Great practice for consistency, and pedal control though!

    Leave a comment:


  • vin-man welding
    replied
    and here is mine. i only had 3/32 filler and haven't welded alum in a long time. i should have toke more time with it but just banged it out to show some one. and i didn't use any fancy settings. it is the second one i did, the first one had a grounding issue and the hole side of the can blow out.
    Attached Files

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  • Xwelder
    replied
    Not two cans together, but this part of the can is thinner.


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  • Ultrachop
    replied
    Tecknition,

    Congratulation on the purchase of the 200dx, I am picking mine up "today". I am as well looking for a new Plasma cutter, we will stay intouch and compare notes!

    Tim

    [QUOTE=teknition;2770]I recently purchased a Miller Dynasty 200DX and want to practice welding thin aluminum.

    Leave a comment:


  • wrh5
    replied
    Welding beer cans

    Hi
    Is this what you had in mind?---I having been doing this for years using a Miller Snycro Wave 250 :-)
    Attached Files

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  • weldingtipsandtricks
    replied
    welding beer cans with a dynasty 200dx

    A few tricks for welding the beer cans with a dynasty 200dx:
    First thing is punch a hole in one of them so that the expanding gases dont blow out when you close up the last little bit of the weld.
    second, use 1/16" or even .040" electrode, either 2% thoriated, ceriated, or lanthanated and put a taper on it just like you would for welding on DC. maybe not quite as sharp.
    A/c balance around 60, frequency/HZ at about 100-120
    Filler metal no bigger than 1/16"
    use 4043. 4047 is even better because it has slightly lower melt point and wets out better with lower heat.

    If you really want to strut, run a really light pass around the ridge of each can where the weld will be, in addition to all the above.

    Good luck,

    Jody
    www.weldingtipsandtricks.com

    Leave a comment:


  • techwelder
    replied
    Welding Beer cans

    Hello,

    Currently I have 6 250's in the shop that I instruct in. I have found that using a piece of angle iron to help fit the 2 can together is beneficial. Pre cleaning the cans with a stainless or brass wire brush is a must. My students practice with 1/16" 2%thoriated and we use 4043 .030 spool gun wire. After the 2 cans are tacked, the arc must be concentrated in the center of the tack to begin the welds. I have found if the cans are not cleaned properly by remiving the clear coat the arc will take the least path of resistance and melt a hole in one of the cans. A steady hand is a must, and the rate at which the filler metal is added is essential.

    Hopefuly this helps,

    Adam

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