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welding aluminum beer cans

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  • USARMY44B
    replied
    ok when i did it i wish i had back gased, had a smaller tung, and smaller filler. but i did it and got a 4 day weekend out of it. i had my machine maxed and was using the pedel had a pure 3/32 tung 4043 1/8 filler my balence was in the middle (its all wrighten in german) and i think the freq was around between 175 and 200 hz and the tung was balled i dont have pics because the recovery ncoic crushed it befor i had a chance.

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    As I mentioned in another thread.......

    the .040 tungs didn't work out too good, it caused alot of instability and wobble even burned through in a couple of places.

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Turbo...........

    You have to tilt the torch/arc more towards the direction of travel than normal, while keeping the filler in the leading edge of the puddle. Weave the torch, or fillet if you feel like it.

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  • turboglenn
    replied
    MIne look about like the onse above, but my big issue is the arc wanting to jump to one can and heat it up perfect and the other stays to cold.. a bit of torch manipulation helps though.. I've played with all sorts of settings and being that i've only played with pulsing a handfull of times i need more practice with it to get good at it.

    I will have some pics of my attemps up soon enough.. **** tonight i may even post the few i've already done.... In my "mini-lab" thread in this section there is a can to can weld in the first post the name i s "redbullhalfa$$" or something with "halfa$$" in it.

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  • jamscal
    replied


    Nothing to brag about, but I can see how it will be pretty easy with practice (and a Dynasty).

    Scuffed up the ends of the cans, but I could hear the Coke boiling inside. Also, whatever is burning off the cans is pretty strong...got a little buzz.

    3/32 Tungsten (too big)

    1/16 5356 filler

    35 amps

    Pulse...200+pps I think, 80 and 40 the other settings.

    60 balance 60 hz.

    Starting was a little messy (big tungsten) but I could leave the heat on there for a long time.

    I had the two cans setting on a piece of strut to align them, thus the burn thru marks.

    -James

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  • turboglenn
    replied
    I"ll get some pics of mine up soon... problem is I"ve been working late on a home re-paint and when i get home to my mini-lab the wifey is already there and she absolutely hATES the sound of AC welding so i try and not do any here if i don't have to.... Of course when i'm not here i'm working on paying projects and don[t have time to mess with cans... I'll get some up this weekend though

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    No Replies? What????

    Come on, someone has to have some pics.

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Challenge

    Ok so I put my cash where my beer hole is...........

    How about the rest of you?? We need some more pics!!!

    I want to see what some of you with inverter machines, that have 10x the settings of my humble Syncro 200 has, can do.

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    I really am not sure, but I think the 5356 wets and flows better.......could just be unfounded, but it really flowed good, and followed the heat and keyhole nicely. It also transferred the heat to my left hand efficiently, mainly because I never pulled it out of the keyhole.
    Thanks for appreciating my work!!! I have only owned that Syncro since Feb, and so the bulk of my TIG time has been since then. I even had a 2 month break June-July cause I had too much stuff going on to weld.

    I have been doing alot of practice on open root pipe here lately, and also thin < .032 aluminum, so I guess it has paid off. Like I said, thats not even my best, I did that on my low table, low chair, as opposed to my high table and standing. I'm gonna better that one though, and get comfortable, use my rotary ground connection, and then take pics with a new Olympus 10+ megapixel, to get better detail.

    I still aspire to weld a bead like I used to look at daily on the T63 Allison turbines combustion section, It had to be robotic. Absolutely perfect in every way. Maybe one day.

    So maybe I will have more pics in a week or so, have to go get some more
    "1006" or "green gas".

    Also I am going to try .040 tungs sharp point next time, the .020 would ball right about 18 Amps, causing more cleaning, but less wetting-puddling.
    Last edited by Blackbird455; 09-30-2008, 10:03 PM.

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  • turboglenn
    replied
    does 5356 make it any easier or harder than 4043? ONce again i must say, very well done..you got skills!

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    .020 gold band tungsten, semi sharp, 12 cfh, #4 cup balance was set to 8.0 (syncrowave 200 setting) 18 amps, no pulser.......uhh and two miller lites oh 5356 1/16 rod cause it was two feet closer to me than the 4043.
    Last edited by Blackbird455; 09-30-2008, 08:20 PM.

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  • turboglenn
    replied
    Very nice work blackbird! Someday i will get them that smooth as well.. Any specifics on your setup, tung size, filler alloy and size...balance, freq. etc..???

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Look up there

    Yeah I dont know why I edited that one instead of a new post

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg

    see description above

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Delete this

    I have done this with my Syncro @ 10 amps, no pulse, .020 gold band tungs sharpened to a semi pencil point with a flat(magnifying lens required), .020 gas lens.


    Heres a couple of hints:

    Clean the crap out of the cans, they have a lacquer coating. Use MEK or acetone first, then stainless brush.
    Don't try to weld the tops, there is an adhesive sealant between the top and the can, which gives off gnarly fumes, and the smoke contaminates the weld. Maybe if I had a smaller cup I would try the tops again.

    The wall thickness is around .007 , slightly thicker at the base, so setup accordingly.

    I will have pics of this.

    OK HERE IT IS:
    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg
    notice the nice weave, open root gap of about .040 and I had to use 18 amps this time.
    the burn holes are from where it was grounding. Not my best, but I had just come from the gym and my arms were smoked, and I had Mississippi Delta mosquitoes trying to drain me/carry my filler rod off.....I guess cause its shiny
    Last edited by Blackbird455; 09-30-2008, 07:38 PM.

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  • turboglenn
    replied
    Originally posted by StillBoostin View Post
    I didn't do so well and the fumes were terrible. I need help. What amps and balance?

    James

    I've used between 20 and 30 amps (with a tig start amperage of 10A and starting on EP) ..the better i get the more towards 30amps i stay. Balance is at 60% EN no matter what, I've used both 40-60hz range and up to right around 140-150 but it was more diffiult and required more torch manipulation. 40-60 was best. You must clean the cans REALLY good, you will see the oxide layer and something else come off and the metal will get shinier (not sure what all it is but scotch brite worked better than a wire brush) Start with the rod in the groove as soon as your arc strikes, then keep filling the puddle continuously while moving the puddle..dont' take the rod from the puddle at all!!!

    I've done it with and without the pulser...the settings i use on it are.
    30Amps
    15PPS
    80% peak
    10%background

    Using 1/16th tungsten (ceriated and thoriated) and 1/16 4043 filler rod.. I'm only burning holes when re-starting the puddle after turning the can to re-position for welding...a few weeks ago it was 3/16ths of sloppy bead and 1 1/2 inches of holes then another 1/8th bead LOL I put a pic of an older red-bull can i did about 2 weeks ago in my new thread in the project section
    Last edited by turboglenn; 09-30-2008, 12:40 AM.

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