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  • Bistineau
    replied
    Originally posted by BlackSapphire View Post
    Thanks for the replies guys.




    P.S. I already have a bunch of extra 2x2 posts. I like the 2.5x2.5 idea but I'm already invested in this other path.
    On big advantage to using the 2.5" tubing is, it will be thicker at the base so should last much longer than the original did.
    The 2" you have could be saved and use for another project later on.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by BlackSapphire View Post
    Thanks for the replies guys. I apologize for the delay in my response - I was traveling this week and didn't have time to check back in.

    Bob and H80N, that was the plan. I didn't see why it wouldn't work.

    With that said, I also like some of those bases that King Architectural has as well. I could pour a small pad for each post and terminate the 2x2 on a base that's screwed down. At least it would lift the post above the water line.

    I'm torn!

    P.S. I already have a bunch of extra 2x2 posts. I like the 2.5x2.5 idea but I'm already invested in this other path.
    In the end...

    You are the guy on site evaluating the situation and doing the work..

    So pick your best path..

    PLS take some pictures and share your progress.. as it unfolds

    Welcome aboard and Good Luck...

    Leave a comment:


  • BlackSapphire
    replied
    Thanks

    Thanks for the replies guys. I apologize for the delay in my response - I was traveling this week and didn't have time to check back in.

    Bob and H80N, that was the plan. I didn't see why it wouldn't work.

    With that said, I also like some of those bases that King Architectural has as well. I could pour a small pad for each post and terminate the 2x2 on a base that's screwed down. At least it would lift the post above the water line.

    I'm torn!

    P.S. I already have a bunch of extra 2x2 posts. I like the 2.5x2.5 idea but I'm already invested in this other path.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bistineau
    replied
    Another plan of attack could be to use 2.5x2.5x3/16 or 1/4" tubing and slide it over the outside of the 2x2 and weld it. Go several inches above where you cut it off. If the 2.5" tubing goes up high enough on the 2", then the welding is more to seal out moisture but does add rigidity.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post
    You lost me here So you can't cut off 2' and weld 2' back on...Bob
    Why Not..??

    The way I understood it.. was to cut off a rotted out section of 2X2 tubing and weld in a sound new piece of the same length... Restoring the 2X2 post to original length...
    Last edited by H80N; 03-18-2015, 05:07 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Originally posted by walker View Post
    It sounds like a good plan, unfortunately it wont work. There wont be anything to weld to at the bottom.
    You lost me here So you can't cut off 2' and weld 2' back on...Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • M J Mauer
    replied
    Welcome to the forum.
    As this is your first post.

    Leave a comment:


  • fencemaker
    replied
    Could you post a picture please, that will help make a judgment. How far does the heavy rust go up the inside of tube? You said they will be covered in concrete, does that mean you plan to core drill on re installation ? If so I say weld plates and redhead them down.
    Last edited by fencemaker; 03-17-2015, 10:58 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by walker View Post
    It sounds like a good plan, unfortunately it wont work. There wont be anything to weld to at the bottom. It is best to replace the post and use heavier gauge tubing as well as pipe wrap tape on the bottom. Just cut them off with a zip wheel, it only takes a few minutes.
    I agree...

    was thinking you might look at weld tabs and baseplates from the Kingmetals catalog..

    http://www.kingmetalscatalog.com/lg_..._2013/page/252

    baseplates can be welded to the repaired/replaced post tube.. then secured to the concrete with Hilti Bolts or similar....
    Last edited by H80N; 03-17-2015, 09:20 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • walker
    replied
    It sounds like a good plan, unfortunately it wont work. There wont be anything to weld to at the bottom. It is best to replace the post and use heavier gauge tubing as well as pipe wrap tape on the bottom. Just cut them off with a zip wheel, it only takes a few minutes.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Food for thought...

    mounts.. base stanchions.. hardware..

    http://www.kingmetalscatalog.com/main.cfm

    might give you some ideas...

    Leave a comment:


  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Sounds like you have a good plan. I would do a small gap like a 16th..Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • BlackSapphire
    started a topic Fence post repair question...

    Fence post repair question...

    I'm a new owner of a Millermatic 211 and my first order of business is to repair my pool fencing.

    The fencing itself consists of 2x2 posts that are powdercoated. Due to drainage issues, many of the posts rotted off at ground level.

    Rather than replace the entire post (each cross bar is welded to it in several places and the caps are also welded on), I plan to cut off the rot at the bottom and butt-weld some new 2x2 post onto it to lengthen it.

    The plan of attack is to use .030 wire w/C25 gas.

    Besides grinding off the powdercoating and any galvanized surfaces, are there any precautions or tips you guys can provide?

    It's only 16ga steel. Should I butt weld them with a small gap or just butt them up tight and let it penetrate? I'm not worried about looks - this part will be buried in concrete. Also, I don't think it's completely necessary but I have considered using some fish plates as well.

    Any advice you guys/gals can offer will be absorbed readily.

    Thanks!
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