truck electrical battery question

[MMW]

I am swapping an electric/hydraulic dump rack body from one truck to another. The old truck has dual batteries mounted on the frame rail behind the cab. These run both the truck & the dump body. The new truck (2006 F-350 cab/chassis) has a single battery under the hood. If I mount a second battery on the frame rail behind the cab to run the hydraulics can I just run a second wire from the alternator to the + on the second battery to keep it charged? The + would then go to the hydraulics & the - to ground. One battery for truck & one for dump body.

[bigtow30t]

You could get a second battery tray and mount it under the hood (like a diesel truck).I would just run the battery s parallel (+ to+ and -to ground ) and run your + for the dump motor off 1 of the battery.

That will also give you more starting power too.

But you would need to get 2 new battery's of the same size. If 1 is old or different size it would zap your new battery

[dandeman]

The question might be does it take one or two batteries to run the hydraulic dump

Due to the high current draw, it is common on 4x4s (that are really used off road) to use two batteries in parallel to run the winch for any time under heavy load...

Same condition may or may not apply to your electric powered dump hydraulics.

From your statement, it sounds like they were paralleled so current from both batteries was available to run the dump, and probably using a fairly short cable run...

Who built the electric dump hydraulic system? They would be in the best position to answer what the current demand is to run the dump... If you can't get the answer there, you may have to use a current probe to measure the draw while dumping a heavy load to determine if one battery can reliably handle the load or, if it will live a short life due to pulling high current beyond its capability.

[bigtow30t]

If you don't want to run them that way you could use a battery isolator. That would keep them separate but use the same charge off of the alternator.
That would mean you would you'd have to buy a $150 isolator and still 2 new batterys

[MMW]

Thanks for the replies. The F350 has a brand new battery in it. The donor truck has two older but good batteries. When the donor truck arrives I will look at the battery set up details better. I looked them both over yesterday at his yard but didn't pay good attention to the wiring & the F350 arrived yesterday afternoon to my shop. Maybe I'll just mount the two batteries by the unit & isolate them from the one under the hood. Or I could do away with the one under the hood. Just thinking out loud here. Didn't really think about load on them last night. I was just thinking about not having three batteries or running heavy cable from front to back on the truck.

The truck gets moderate use about 4-5 months out of the year then sits for the most part.

[Bistineau]

One thing you need to check is the voltage of the electric hydraulic pump. It may be using two batteries due to the fact it is a 24 volt unit. If so you will need to add another alternator to the truck to get 24 volts to charge the additional battery. Possibly a 24 volt alternator to power the dump independently of the truck's 12 volt charging system.

[WillieB]

Two batteries can lead to balance problems. Whether series IE two 12 volt to give 24, or parallel one can get more charge than the other. It is important to have identical batteries. If parallel, try to keep both with equal resistance, keep all connections clean, tight and coated with Noalox. Still it is helpful once a month to disconnect the ground from one battery at a time and drive 1/2 hour to be sure that battery is at full charge. Then alternate batteries.

[walker]

Should run just fine off of one battery. It is not likely to be 24vdc. If you want to add a second, so that you dont have to worry about running down your start battery, just add an isolator.

[Bistineau]

What did you ever find out about this system? Have you started on it yet?

[MMW]

What did you ever find out about this system? Have you started on it yet?

Haven't got that far yet. Just prepping the Ford. Had to lower the fuel tank, add some tabs for the wood to sit on, etc. Something always comes up every time I plan on working on it. Good thing he's not pressing me on it.

[Bistineau]

Have you determined if it is 12 or 24 volt?

[MMW]

It's 12 volt. Name & model is "Monarch 08111-1 12V". Worked on it some today, mainly focusing on all the brackets etc. so when I pull the hoist & body from the donor it should go right on the Ford. The new battery tray I fabbed is big enough for two batteries. Lots of time spent measuring twice, & then re-measuring just to make sure.

[snowbird]

24 volts motors can be run on a 12 volts charging system.

Running a 24 v. motor for a short period can be done on a 12 volts charging system using a parallel switch.

Some heavy equipment had them.

[MMW]

Thought I'd show some pics of this swap. New rear pivot done. The frame extension was already there but only bolted on. I welded it & left the bolts as well. Then cut it as needed before adding the pivots & angle. Basically just copying what was on the old truck.


Hoist riser blocks & boards. Due to the fuel tank location I had clearance issues with it & the hoist. I lowered the tank three inches & raised the body & hoist two inches. I removed the rivets for the cross member & the bolts will go through the hoist, riser blocks & frame. I plan on adding a side plate that will also bolt through an existing hole on the frame.

Separating body & hoist from old truck.


I have not gotten to the electrical yet but have decided to use two batteries with an isolator for the hoist set-up while leaving the original battery under the hood for the truck. So three batteries total. The old light wiring was spaghetti so that will take a little time for me also as electric is not my forte.

[MMW]

I inquired about an isolator & was told that I cannot put one on this truck, 06 F-350 due to the factory charging/electrical system design. I need to get a battery separator. With the separator I'd have to run heavy gauge wire to the second battery anyway so why not just wire two batteries in parallel & be done with it.

All I was trying to do was get away from running 2 gauge wire from the engine compartment to about halfway back on the truck. Even with a separator I would need to do it.

http://www.ase-supply.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/200tech.pdf