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Yet another Home made Tig Cart & Cooler (Oh Brother) Part 1

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  • Yet another Home made Tig Cart & Cooler (Oh Brother) Part 1

    Hey guys: I finally completed my tig cart and cooler for my 350 I purchase a year ago. This has been a project from dumpster diving and cheating the bartender of some time. I built up from my 252 Runner kit, a frame to support my 350 and cooler on time...fairly stable too.



    2" PVC rack for my filler rods...

    Quick change valve couplers for my different torches (high amp, Mid amp flex, and micro)...

    A tig torch tree to hold all my leads...
    Last edited by NDAV8R; 02-05-2014, 08:41 PM.

  • NDAV8R
    replied
    Originally posted by bkmall View Post
    Holy buckets, that doesn't look bad. I recently made an aluminum cooling tank for my welder using a 6" pipe. Welded end caps to a rectangular piece of aluminum tubing, inserted that through the pipe to provide some cooling using a fan, and viols, you have yourself a heat exchanger. It's not on par with what you have here, but gets the job done.
    Sounds Great: There is nothing wrong with KISS, keeping it simple. My stupid project took control of me about half way into it, so I could'nt stop being complex...I can't even estimate how long it took in time over a year's span in spare time.

    NDAV8R

    Leave a comment:


  • NDAV8R
    replied
    TIG frame and 252 cover

    Originally posted by Robert Hall View Post
    How did you make the cart so you:

    A. attach to the 252 cart and

    B. Still open the 252 side door to load a full spool of wire on it?
    Sorry for the reply delay...haven't been online for awhile.
    A. I removed front swivel casters and bolted wider plates on bottom. Reinstalled front casters. Then I went upright with some 1" square tubing (clothes rack) with L-brackets welded to them on the bottoms. They are just bolted at the bottom on top of the 252 runner frame and front swivel plates and midway in the rear. It is bolted to the 1"cross members midway up(at the to top of the 252. I could not remove the lifting bracket for the 350 so I installed two ball bearing drawers on each side. No need if nothing goes on top though. So far it is really strong and surprising NOT too top heavy.

    B. I removed the hinge bracket bolts and just the latch alone has no problem keeping the cover in place. When I need to get in, I just unlatch and pull the entire cover straight out.

    If you need pics, I can post them.

    Leave a comment:


  • bkmall
    replied
    Originally posted by NDAV8R View Post
    Hey guys: I finally completed my tig cart and cooler for my 350 I purchase a year ago. This has been a project from dumpster diving and cheating the bartender of some time. I built up from my 252 Runner kit, a frame to support my 350 and cooler on time...fairly stable too.



    2" PVC rack for my filler rods...

    Quick change valve couplers for my different torches (high amp, Mid amp flex, and micro)...

    A tig torch tree to hold all my leads...
    Holy buckets, that doesn't look bad. I recently made an aluminum cooling tank for my welder using a 6" pipe. Welded end caps to a rectangular piece of aluminum tubing, inserted that through the pipe to provide some cooling using a fan, and viols, you have yourself a heat exchanger. It's not on par with what you have here, but gets the job done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Robert Hall
    replied
    How did you make the cart so you:

    A. attach to the 252 cart and

    B. Still open the 252 side door to load a full spool of wire on it?

    Leave a comment:


  • NDAV8R
    replied
    Teed for Stainless Steel back purging

    One thing that I failed to mention, is that if you notice on my Argon tank. I have teed off the high pressure side, with a separate adjustable regulator, so when I weld Stainless, for back purging, I can use a variety of copper homemade attachments. It does not appear to affect the flow valve operation.
    NDAV8R

    Leave a comment:


  • Gingerboy
    replied
    Bad azz! Very pro!

    Leave a comment:

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