I agree never leave the key in the chuck very bad.
I was about to load that square hollow section into the chuck & I wanted an in between image. Other than that I never leave the key in the chuck because if you power the unit up the key will fly out.
Ji
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4 Jaw Chuck Adaptor Plate For Lathe
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make sure you take the Key out
Never leave the key in the chuck, the shop I work in my buddy "ill Phill" did that and is no longer welcome in the shop.
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Originally posted by Jigantor View PostHi Just,
Thermal expansion alters aluminium's dimensions that is for sure. I don't turn all day long or take large bits so my chuck and base plate don't really get hot, but just in case that does happen that is why I made the base plate so it needs some heat to even fit. After that it is just a spacer so aluminium should do fine as my machine does not spin real fast (max is 1600rpm).
I have never had a 4 jaw chuck so did not think about holding it with the 3 jaw, great suggestion. My 3 jaw and 4 jaw weigh a bit, combined that is a fare old weight being supported by the bearings without the job weight spinning force or tool pressure. Have you ever had yours fly off or just fall onto the bed? What size 3 jaw chuck do you have in comparison to your 4 jaw?
Ji
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Still a good looking mill.
Well built machinery seems to work forever.
Ji
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Hi Roy,
Wow is that your mill? Pretty cool stuff. I thought about bolting something into the tee slots. I was thinking about making a permanent stop fixed to the vice. Something to index a part from both sides of the vice.
Ji
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Originally posted by Jigantor View PostHi Roy,
Have you got a stock stop for your mill.
When rounding the corners I marked a line on my vice so I could spin the part but have it align again without adjusting the X,Y,Z.
Ji
You should be able to modify your new indicator holder to work on the mill table to catch the front edge of the work you need to mill to get the work piece indexed. See below...
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Hi Roy,
Have you got a stock stop for your mill.
When rounding the corners I marked a line on my vice so I could spin the part but have it align again without adjusting the X,Y,Z.
Ji
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If it works for you, that is the only thing that matters. I've been known to plop down a section of 1" flat stock across the lathe ways and sit a surface gauge on top to rough align stock in the chuck before bringing out the indicators.
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Hi Roy,
I have one of those lever type indicators but for squaring square it only moves a little bit before end of travel while the dial type has heaps to avoid the corners. May be there is a better way but I have not been shown it.
Thanks Ji
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Makes sense in oh so many ways! Looks like it's about time to invest in a finger style indicator for your lathe work. I've a number of old lug back plunger indicators, but a finger style is so much easier to use on a tool post.
EDIT: Actually, I find a Noga brand mag base indicator holder invaluable.
Last edited by WyoRoy; 04-08-2013, 11:22 PM.
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Hi Roy,
Exactly.
The mill would have been better alround but it was the only square stock I had hanging around to test the new chuck.
It needed squaring for another project and I found out I needed this indicator jig to use the chuck so it all worked out.
Ji
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Nicely made holder. I have to ask...why not just use your mill to true up the square tube?
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I don't have a slitting saw so I cut the compression gap with my band saw. Not to bad.
It holds the indicator perfectly.
No more fights or lost time.
Ji
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Truing the square hollow section yesterday took for ever. Mainly because I was fighting with the magnetic base holder. It was like trying to get someone to stand up that took a handful of sleeping tablets. Not wanting to go through that again I came up with a design for a jig to hold the dial indicator in the tool post.
I found some scrap aluminium 20mm x 20mm 6061 square bar hanging around so off to the mill I went.
Ji
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