ive burnt boxes of 7018. guy showed me how he welds with 6010. its kinda like he dabbed some weld and brought the rod out so weld would freeze a second and take the heat out and come back in. i guess a whipping motion? any tips from you peoploe that burn it would be appreciated. i got 7 or 8 lbs to practice this weekend
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6010
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6010 rod has its place .I would not throw it away ! It cannot be beat for rusted , dirty, or painted metal.
Yes, it is a fast freeze rod. Great for filling a gap. Get puddle started, sometimes
it may take a bit to get gap filled. Once you have it started move rod away from
puddle to allow it to cool. The moving distance depends on how hot your heat is and how soon the puddle freezes. It is a whipping motion. Sometimes on a wide gap, as you draw rod away,follow the side of the joint to try to add metal from rod before you get to that point. It's kind of hard to explain.
This rod is great for welding on galvanized metal without cleaning.
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6010
Hey sky walker 6010 is a lifesaver of a rod . I know ya said you do not run much stick you play with those wire guns all day. I normally burn stick or tig I don't play with wire anyway when I fabricate anything or build any structure I tack everything with 6010 and usually run the first pass with 6010 it is such a forgiving easy rod to burn its only drawback is its dirty and smoky . Yes you can run up or down and start to fill a gap or even a 3/8 th hole just whip it back in forth until your gap is filled you can build each side up until the gap is filled even on jobs where they want 7018 or 8018 welded all the way out I carry a handle full of 6010 for a when you have a bad fit up . I also will use it on pipe jobs that require 8010 bead 8018 fill cap I still tack with 6010 unless you heat 8010 up with a torch it won't move withought breaking 8010 sucks but 6010 moves where you want it . It truly is a lifesaver I've only welded up here in ak it amazes Me every summer when guys come up from down south 9 times out of ten they can't run 6010 beads or haven't done it since welding school . I guarantee you will like the **** out of this rod fit something up with a big gap and run a downhill bead just step down if you start to burn thru when the puddle cools move right back up and then continue down
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Originally posted by aametalmaster View PostI ran enough of that last summer to know to throw the rest away. Just my thoughts...BobObviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....
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Yes i am an idiot when it comes to 6010, 6011, 6013 as i have not used any of it much. In my 34 years of welding in many shops it was all 7018 or SS or tool and die rod. The refinery i worked at outlawed anything but 7018 or special alloy rods for high chrome pipe. The foundry was all 7018. Every stick welding test i have done was 7018. My last job on the river boats we tested with 7018 and gas flux core. There isn't a stick of anything but 7018 in the shop i am at now and i don't use anything but 7018 in my shop. So yes i am an idiot on 6010 and it won't be the first rod i grab...BobBob Wright
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6010
Bob is right ..... The welding inspections industry hates 6010 ....... Which is so funny to me because the oldest parts of the plants refineries and platforms were built with it until sometime in the 80's the good welders butterfly laced capped there pipe with it. Long live 6010!!!! It is a welders best friend
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6010
Switching the polarity minimizes the penetration adjust your arc force to zero and I mean hot start. And it is perfect for welding on thin gauge steel I have repaired many things with it that way. Or just get some 6010 3/32 it is tiny and at 40 amps you can practically weld anything small 1/16 gauge steel no problem
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since we are talking about 6010, may I ask a question , i always stock 6011 and 7018, in my shop for the bread and butter jobs, i have had a problem running 6011x3/32", hobarts product, i run it on dc plus, when it gets used about 1/2 of the way, it welds awful, for the last 5" of rod left, it runs cold, the flux changes color, it sticks, where as the same rod in the larger sizes burns real nice right down to the stub, ac helps, but that is not the answer, my question is does 3/32" 6010 using dc plus run good all the way through the whole length of the rod. thanks boys. kevin
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6010
Yes it burns great I actually burn 6010 all the way down till it starts to burn Excalibur aka my stinger my 6010 stubs are usually two inches. .... It actually burns longer than any other rod I have used it burns nothing like 7018 ...... You know the orange glow on the last five inches.... That is if your running it correctly but that's for another thread .......
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