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Need gate-installation advice

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  • Need gate-installation advice

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Name:	- 7 inch barrel hinge diagram.jpg
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ID:	530617Click image for larger version

Name:	- Gate sideview.jpg
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Name:	- Gate dimensions diagram.jpg
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    Howdy all -

    I'm making and installing a gate and am hoping to get some advice.

    The gate is made of 2"x4" galvanized steel beams, 3/16" thick. I guess it probably weighs somewhere around 175 lbs.

    I got some 7" weld-on barrel hinges to mount it to the post.

    For the posts, I was thinking of using galvanized pipe, 9' long, 3.5" OD, 1/3" thick, with 6' sunk in a concrete-filled 2' diameter augered hole. And I was thinking of using a 1" tie rod to attach the top of the weight-bearing post to a 5' piece of 3" angle-iron hammered all the way into the ground about 6' away.

    So my questions are these:

    - Do these hinges and posts seem adequate, or do you foresee problems?

    - I'd like to add an automatic gate-opener in the future. Should I do anything different to accomodate that?

    - Would I be ill-advised to pre-weld the hinges to the post, then simply make sure the post is set plumb and drop the gate on the hinges? If so, what's a better approach?

    - Lastly, I need to make the locking mechanism as secure as reasonably possible because the gate prevents access to secluded property, and was wondering if anyone has a lock design that they could share. I was thinking along the lines of a hasp shielded by a pipe that's just big enough for a hand, but too small for bolt-cutters. Or a puck lock and hasp like this:

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks for your thoughts -

  • #2
    How long is the gate? Why is your hinge post only 3' out of the ground?

    The majority of our business is gates and operators. The post depth itself is adequate, depending on soil. If your going to install an operator in the future, square the hole up. The post we set on our jobs are 6"x6"x1/4" at a minimum of 6' deep. It's always easier to explain the extra cost than to try to make a profit going back to fix a moving gate post.


    • #3
      Thanks for your reply. I uploaded some pictures with my first post but for some reason they came out as links instead of pictures. If you click the links (at the top of the first post) the pictures show up. There's a picture of the gate, a drawing with dimensions, and a schematic of the hinges. The gate is about 13' wide.

      I guess the posts I'm thinking of using might be inadequate (I meant to write that they are 3.5" OD and 1/4" thick, not 1/3' thick). They only come about 3' out of the ground because the gate is only 3' high. The ground is seasonally very soggy (almost ground-level water table for a month or two).

      What size/weight gates are you hanging on 6"x6" posts?

      Its my own gate so I'm not worried about making a profit (but I hate spending money if I really don't need to).
      Last edited by RB22; 03-01-2012, 08:45 PM. Reason: clarity


      • #4
        Add Gate Opener

        If you are planning to add an automatic gate opener in the future, an excellent idea BTW, I would put an electronic lock on the gate that would open and lock with the automatic gate opener. Mighty Mule has the automatic lock that I use on my gate and it works great. It might not be secure enough for you in your situation though.



        • #5
          For gates that size, posts and hinges you posted are more than adequate.

          More important, if it's that easy to drill a 6' hole, is your soil good enough to hold the gate up? Consider a support at the end of the gate. Go back into your profile, put your location in, maybe somebody local to you can add something here. Gates, like real estate, is a local local local issue.
          Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....


          • #6

            1. Gates and locks only keep the honest people out.
            2. The more you try to keep people out, the more they want in.
            3. Design and build it to keep people from driving in but not good enough to make them want to see what you're "hiding."
            4. It would be cheaper and easier to use pipe and rod as hinges.
            5. Make sure the top and bottom barrels on the gate are in line before welding. (or the post, whichever you start with.) (I'm sure you knew that though.)
            6. Angle your support post away from the main post for better strength.
            Last edited by Doughboyracer; 09-18-2012, 12:03 PM.
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