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Thanks Fusionking and James,
Fusionking, so what, you're a electrical wizard???
If you kept the receptacle pin, did you "hot wire" the lamp cord in there say...
6" from the receptacle?
James, thanks for the link.
bert
here are some of the clip on types http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma...x&cPath=11_237
they show a miller version with a 5 pin connection. keep in mind this is a link to an old page and may not still be available threw arc-zone. he just sent me the page to help understand my question about the other handle. but if it has what you need shoot them an e-mail. they are good about fast replies.
I went to the LWS and got a real flat one that had 2 wires (they said it was for a plasma cutter) and then went to the hardware store and got 50 ft of "lamp cord". I then wired them altogether and hooked it onto the foot control plug at the welder end so I have both foot or hand at the same time. I just flip the switches so it is remote contact but standard amp control not remote so it's whatever the machine is set on.
Most of the momentary tig switches you see for sale are for newer style welders and won't work on the old ones....you gotta make them cause they didn't have them! Unless you wanna chop off the 14 pin plug but I wouldn't recommend it.
The reasons the ones you see for sale are so high for like the Dynasty is because you are buying the button and the extension cord and the 14 pin plug and that stuff is good quality welder grade stuff. Just like the set-up for fingertip controller just a little cheaper and simpler.
it will be attached to the torch. i just made a foot peddle one for my plasma to make funky cuts easy-er. some torches come with a built in button others its an add on. i'll look for a better pic or example.
cyberweld is also a good place to order from. i have used them a few times with excellent results. fast service and tracking #'s in your e-mail.
it seems like a lot of $$ for a simple push button switch to me ?? i don't see why its so much??
i made some thing smiler for my plasma cutter out of a $5 car horn button. i needed a bigger button so it could be a step on foot control. but the long and short of it is, if it was a varied control like the foot control i can see the potomiter needing to be the right thing. but this is just a on/off button, all it dose is create a short in a low amp low volt control circuit. so why so much ??
FusionKing and Fun4now,
I looked at arc-zone, I didn't see that "button"? I was talking to a guy that his friend made his aluminum truck rack. Welds were BEAUTIFUL!!! But all he knows, that after he laid his bead, he went over it with a "button" like you guys are talking about. I'd REALLY like to find out about this.
Any more help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!!!!!
I have a Dynasty 200 and a MM251
they sell them for about $125 i think. seems like arc-zone had them. but the $ is a guess. i can check.
it seems like making one would be easy enough to do. i have heard they are a nice option for situations the foot control is not so good in. i just play in my shop so buying one is likely out. if i ever make any $$ with my lil shop i just may have to look a little closer at one. but for you guys paying the bills its a good investment from what i have heard.
on the dyn you don't have to shut off between clicks. you can set it to be at 50 then click down to crater fill say 30 then click back up to 50 and so on as many times as you want switching between the amp settings. really neat setup. i been planing on setting one up for my TA-185 but been more concerned with just working on my bead performance as it is with the foot control.
Yea James I see that you can do that also. I just have to get the momentary switch for my machine. Just haven't had the need. But with the current projects I may need it but the 350P sorta dug into the budget. I weld on so many thicknesses in so many situations I think that the controller I have is the best compromise but not in every situation. I may get me a new pedal someday even
on the dyn you don't have to shut off between clicks. you can set it to be at 50 then click down to crater fill say 30 then click back up to 50 and so on as many times as you want switching between the amp settings. really neat setup. i been planing on setting one up for my TA-185 but been more concerned with just working on my bead performance as it is with the foot control.
Yep...as long as you hold it down it's at the amps the dial says and if you let off it stops.
There is no less than a dozen boat factories using that method and it produces excellent results.
I believe Sundowner III on this board has promoted this method on anodized aluminum as well.
When you get to the end of a bead you just flutter the button. I have been meaning to set my Dynasty up like this but just never got around to it but the owners manual goes into great deal about how it is programmed to be used in this manner. This isn't just something I am doing to use an old machine... I've used Syncrowaves and others set up like this. It is a fast method of laying down dimes. And this old machine does it well
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