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  • FusionKing
    replied
    Try it on some thicker aluminum and see if your problems continue. Black soot means something is WAY WAY off. If it ain't had the tungsten contaminated then you have a gas related problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Blackbird455
    replied
    How bright should the tungsten be?

    I'm not getting soot on stainless anymore, finally got some larger cups and a1/16 and 3/32 gas lens

    Pictures eh?............ ok , but they are few and far between round here (dial-up).
    Last edited by Blackbird455; 02-24-2008, 05:45 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • paulrbrown
    replied
    Blackbird, you need to go to a smaller tungsten, maybe even a .040, as the arc is hard to start and stabilize with the low amperages you are probably using. Hope this helps, let us see some work, the black soot you see on aluminum is Smut, yes, Smut, it is aluminum oxide so dense that it absorbs light. you will get it always when pulling a mig weld, as far as seeing it on stainless????? don't crank up the argon too much, as it will draw in atmosphere and wreak havoc, if your tungsten is not staying bright, you may have a bad cylinder of argon. Hope this helps, Paul

    Leave a comment:


  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Hmmmmm............

    wonder If'n my arc instability / dying arc can be caused by trying to weld
    Alclad aluminum?

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    not saying it cant work, just not the standard option

    i understand its heavier than air but pooling may not cover it if its going to leak out as you weld. maybe for a quick weld, i suppose many factors would/could be involved. in general its recommended to to flow the argon, i suppose to insure continuous coverage over longer times.

    Leave a comment:


  • welderman23
    replied
    do it do it do it we lika to looka at duh purdy pics

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  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Craig In Denver,

    Argon is 1.4 times heavier than the smog we breathe daily.

    Carbon Dioxide is 1.5 times heavier................................

    Ever seen those videos of an industrial site where CO2 has leaked and the cloud of gas is - where- on the floor.

    Now ,I never finished college, but I did go, and even here in my shop , in the southern Mississippi delta @ an altitude of 89 MSL, Argon WILL pool, and protect the backside of my .020 stainless.

    I'm quite sure the same holds true- maybe even moreso- wayy up there around the 5,000 MSL mark.

    Maybe not, you don't know till you try, which , by the way, is how I figured it out...............I wouldn't have said so if I was merely speculating, that is how rumors and urban legends start.

    Geez, you guys are going to make me have to start uploading photos and stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • Craig in Denver
    replied
    Originally posted by Jetmekdc-10 View Post
    No one has suggested a gas cup/nozzle setup yet.
    Neither did you.
    I will never use another of the old style nozzles again.
    Do you mean a gas lens? Rocky D said that Hi Freq kills gas lens with the vibration on AC. I'm just trying to learn and meant no disrespect.
    The two most important things I have found while doing thin aluminum is good gas coverage and getting it clean.
    I thunk AC did its own cleaning, goo excepted?
    Practice, Practice, Practice. It will get less frustrating. Good Luck, Adam
    Amen to that!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetmekdc-10
    replied
    No one has suggested a gas cup/nozzle setup yet. I will never use another of the old style nozzles again. The two most important things I have found while doing thin aluminum is good gas coverage and getting it clean. Practice, Practice, Practice. It will get less frustrating. Good Luck, Adam

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    think: You can't just 'pool' argon on the backside of your stainless weld; it needs flow. OBTW: I've never welded stainless.
    thats what i heard also.

    Leave a comment:


  • Craig in Denver
    replied
    Originally posted by Blackbird455 View Post
    Yeah, so ok I forgot to mention that I have an extensive aviation background.
    We all have secrets.
    Im so OCD about dissimilar metal contact that I used to make scrapers out of 7075-t6 if that was the alloy that I was scraping, 2024 on 2024 , etc......

    I have that "tungsten groove" in my DEDICATED grind wheel,and its only a week old.

    Has anyone tried prepping aluminum in the presence of argon?

    I'm thinking that a large pyrex dish with a 5 cfm argon flow would slow sown the oxidization progess.............Does anyone do this?
    If both of these are aluminum questions: When AC welding aluminum, oxidation is not a problem. One half of the wave cleans the oxidation, the other half welds. You do not have to back gas. Since you can't keep it shielded forever, it IS going to oxidize. I have OCD also, many weldors do. This, however, is a waste of energy; unless you're welding up someone's aluminum experimental aircraft. Craftsmanship is highly reqarded, perfect is unnecessary and over-rated. (Unless you work for NASA?)

    I DO use aluminum foil to create a bowl around some of the thin stainless
    ..............to keep that nasty ?oxide? from forming on the backside, by pre-flowing with the pedal for about 8-10 seconds.
    I think: You can't just 'pool' argon on the backside of your stainless weld; it needs flow. OBTW: I've never welded stainless.
    Last edited by Craig in Denver; 02-21-2008, 09:35 PM. Reason: Kan't spell

    Leave a comment:


  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Yeah, so ok I forgot to mention that I have an extensive aviation background.
    Im so OCD about dissimilar metal contact that I used to make scrapers out of 7075-t6 if that was the alloy that I was scraping, 2024 on 2024 , etc......

    I have that "tungsten groove" in my DEDICATED grind wheel,and its only a week old.

    Has anyone tried prepping aluminum in the presence of argon?

    I'm thinking that a large pyrex dish with a 5 cfm argon flow would slow sown the oxidization progess.............Does anyone do this?

    I DO use aluminum foil to create a bowl around some of the thin stainless
    ..............to keep that nasty ?oxide? from forming on the backside, by pre-flowing with the pedal for about 8-10 seconds.

    Anyone else have any tricks or hints?

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    black soot is not normal. metal contamination can do that. how did you prep the aluminum ?
    you can only use Stainless steel wire brushes on aluminum not standard steel brushes. also some sand papers are not good, but i cant remember which??sorry.
    i generally wipe it down with alcohol and then give it a quick brush with a SS wire wheel. not in the grinder but by hand. do the ss brush just before starting as it re-oxides up fast. also good to hit the filler with the same wipe down, scotch bright is good for this also.

    keep in mind anything you have used on steel can not be used on aluminum after. it picks up microscopic steel parts and thats enough to kill a weld on aluminum. i keep all my aluminum prep stuff separate so it never gets used on anything but aluminum. i also keep it in a closed cabinet so grinding steel dust cant get to it..
    just a few things for ya to look into as possible problems. also you cant sharpen the tungsten on a grinding wheel thats been used for steel. it embeds small pieces in it and they come out during the AC cycle. best to keep one wheel just for Tung.

    Leave a comment:


  • Blackbird455
    replied
    Thanks ,

    Just wanting to know about the black soot now..........
    I get it on my stainless welds, its very fine and wipes off clean.
    Is it normal?

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    Also.......this may or may not be unrelated.....I had a 7 amp grinder plugged into my 115 accessory outlet, and it took way longer to get up to speed, and never reached "full" speed.......could my problems be caused by a bad/weak/insufficient/piss poor/20 year old/corroded 220v 50a plug?

    short answer is yes.
    if the circuit is not feeding the syncrowave enough power its going to complain. thats why i had to go inverter for my shop. if its a bad/old plug i would replace it and try again. if the hole circuit is in question......supose you really don't have much choice but to get it upgraded.
    you asked about balance early-er, i don't know the syncro, but on mine i would set up as fallows.
    1/16" 2% lanthanated tung. ,
    15-20cfh argon
    0.1 sec.pre-flow,
    hot starts 20 amps,
    weld amperage of 80A,
    90 Hz,
    balance about 20%,
    post flow about 6.5 sec.

    this would be a good starting point. keep in mind the peddle is part of the equation here, as the piece heats you will need to back off a bit.
    let us know how its going, pic's would be good. if you cant post them e-mail them to me and i'll post them for ya.


    P.S. did i mention, congratulations on getting the new syncro 200. i soooo wanted one. hope this helps a bit.

    Leave a comment:

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