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I have a Spectrum 375 which I bought for a specific use several months ago. It worked fairly well for what I needed but has been sitting around for a while. Recently I wired a 220v 20A outlet and started playing trying to develope some skill at cutting various materials. I expected it would work substantially better then it was at 110v.
I read all the previous threads I could find on the 375. I have gotten to the point where my cutting is pretty consistant but I think there are several shortcommings. Maybe I'm just missing something.
First of all, why do I have those green arrows on the pressure gauge which seem not to really correlate to anything? They do look cool but...
Secondly, what is with the torch? I find it troubling that the right way to set up the consumables is "not too tight, try it a little looser". It is rediculous that I need to fool with the cup. The idea is that I should be able to change the parts and start cutting right where I left off...
Lastly, the drag shield is really disappointing. The parts are crazy expensive for what they are; which might be ok if they worked.
When you finally get all the right parts and install them, the nozzle and the shield sit flush with each other. Why??? I thought the whole idea is that it holds the optimal stand off. In actuality, it cuts like crap, no matter what the settings or thickness of material. If you angle the torch you can create a bit of arc length but then the arc is all over the place and the capacity and quality go way down. Straight down really is the best cut except toward the very end of the cut. To be precise, for those of you still trying to get better cuts with this thing remember this. If you pull the cut it seems to additionally undercut the left side as it moves toward you, if you push, the opposite the right side has more undercut as it moves away. You can compensate to some degree by slightly tilting the opposit direction. It is less noticable on thinner material.
After alot of aggravation, I have a few things to share.
If you loosen the drag shield several turns and create about 1/8" of stand off, it cuts like you would expect. Of course, if you drag the shield along a fence it tightens or loosens and screws things up.
Also, because the inside edges of the drag shield is thin and tapered, it deteriorate quickly.
As an experiment I took a used tip, ground it down about an 1/8" and cleaned out the orifice. Screwed everything together and wow! works great, but does expose the edge of the drag shield to even more abuse. Experimenting will get expensive soon. This machine was not cheap. Miller needs to straighten this out.
I was at the local supply and was looking at the torch with the 40A model and low and behold the standard tip on it was a drag shield, with the stand off and a much heavier shield with notches all around to relieve some of the traped arc/plasma. I cannot imagine it would be difficult to come up with something similar for the smaller torch.
I am not trying to nock Miller; I have several pieces of equipment that I love, (is it that blue color?) but this was not well thought out and now it seems I hear nothing but excuses about technique and air pressure/volume etc.
The truth is that without the drag shield, the uses and capacity are very limited. I can hold the line and the 1/8" standoff (even though I'm getting old, blind and shakey) on the bench, but upside down trying to cut out some bracket or something I might as well just break out the torch.
Let me know if you guys have had a similar experience.
Thanks
John
I read all the previous threads I could find on the 375. I have gotten to the point where my cutting is pretty consistant but I think there are several shortcommings. Maybe I'm just missing something.
First of all, why do I have those green arrows on the pressure gauge which seem not to really correlate to anything? They do look cool but...
Secondly, what is with the torch? I find it troubling that the right way to set up the consumables is "not too tight, try it a little looser". It is rediculous that I need to fool with the cup. The idea is that I should be able to change the parts and start cutting right where I left off...
Lastly, the drag shield is really disappointing. The parts are crazy expensive for what they are; which might be ok if they worked.
When you finally get all the right parts and install them, the nozzle and the shield sit flush with each other. Why??? I thought the whole idea is that it holds the optimal stand off. In actuality, it cuts like crap, no matter what the settings or thickness of material. If you angle the torch you can create a bit of arc length but then the arc is all over the place and the capacity and quality go way down. Straight down really is the best cut except toward the very end of the cut. To be precise, for those of you still trying to get better cuts with this thing remember this. If you pull the cut it seems to additionally undercut the left side as it moves toward you, if you push, the opposite the right side has more undercut as it moves away. You can compensate to some degree by slightly tilting the opposit direction. It is less noticable on thinner material.
After alot of aggravation, I have a few things to share.
If you loosen the drag shield several turns and create about 1/8" of stand off, it cuts like you would expect. Of course, if you drag the shield along a fence it tightens or loosens and screws things up.
Also, because the inside edges of the drag shield is thin and tapered, it deteriorate quickly.
As an experiment I took a used tip, ground it down about an 1/8" and cleaned out the orifice. Screwed everything together and wow! works great, but does expose the edge of the drag shield to even more abuse. Experimenting will get expensive soon. This machine was not cheap. Miller needs to straighten this out.
I was at the local supply and was looking at the torch with the 40A model and low and behold the standard tip on it was a drag shield, with the stand off and a much heavier shield with notches all around to relieve some of the traped arc/plasma. I cannot imagine it would be difficult to come up with something similar for the smaller torch.
I am not trying to nock Miller; I have several pieces of equipment that I love, (is it that blue color?) but this was not well thought out and now it seems I hear nothing but excuses about technique and air pressure/volume etc.
The truth is that without the drag shield, the uses and capacity are very limited. I can hold the line and the 1/8" standoff (even though I'm getting old, blind and shakey) on the bench, but upside down trying to cut out some bracket or something I might as well just break out the torch.
Let me know if you guys have had a similar experience.
Thanks
John
i have the 125C though and its drag cup is ok except you cant really see the cut point, so for fine artsy fartsy stuff you need to free hand it. i also did not like the torch too much, thought a pencil type would be cool for the artsy fokes. i added a foot trigger to mine and it allows better use of the torch in odd positions or shapes. but for the most part i free hand my stuff. takes a little getting used to but before long you will have it dialed in. i have not fired up the torch to cut anything sense getting my lil plasma, but i could use a bigger one.
the spec.375 is my next stop.
feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.
and rebuild the torch with all new components. If I continued to have a problem, I would seek the assistance of the world's best LWS (GASCO on Motor Street in Dallas, TX) or Miller directly. They WANT/NEED you to be happy with your cutter and will bend over backwards to see that through.
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