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  • k.a.m.
    replied
    Originally posted by Tom C View Post
    Get with the picture..........use a hole saw in a vise , clamped down good..........or go to Harbor Freight and get the jig , works good ..........GL
    31/2'' or 4'' sch40? Mighty big holesaw personally i will use my pipe wrap and torch,that is what i was taught with i would hate to ride that beast

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  • Tom C
    replied
    Half Moon

    Get with the picture..........use a hole saw in a vise , clamped down good..........or go to Harbor Freight and get the jig , works good ..........GL

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  • KBar
    replied
    Originally posted by fun4now View Post
    ....well really no easy way to say but my gray matter is getting dull.
    wait till it gets to the point that you cant sharpen it anymore

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  • Dustyhaze75
    replied
    wrap templates/tube miter program

    a tube miter program can be found at http://www.ihpva.org./tools/index.html
    its listed down on the bottom of the page under spreadsheets. its listed as tubemiter.exe it's best to use heavy papper. just put your values in and print out the template on your computer printer.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    k.a.m. was going the same place as me, just without a pic. once again a pic is worth a 1,000 word's.
    25% instead of 40%, i would try his 25 first and play from there as i was trying to remember from memory..........well really no easy way to say but my gray matter is getting dull. so try his first.

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  • k.a.m.
    replied
    here this might help also i drug out my layout book some times i assume people know what i am trying to explain sorry.
    Attached Files

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  • migman69
    replied
    My instructor says pipe wrap templates are a pipe welders best friend.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    always glad to help.
    truth be told, it was not my finding but another member's gift to the board. i'm just passing it on to as many as need it. so if he/she be still among us i too thank them for it.
    best part of a forum is the opportunity to gather the wisdom of many, even threw the less than wise.

    you may have to play with the % of cut a bit to get the fit you want but with a little trial you will find it a very useful way to get a nice saddle.
    i must say even with a plasma cutter i was never too good at saddles

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  • Richard
    replied
    Hey James,

    I like that info....neet
    . Thanks for sharing with us

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  • Gsd34me
    replied
    Easy as pie!!!!!! Thanks alot for the info and pic! .....Tim

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  • fun4now
    replied
    put the pipe in a chop saw and cut 1/2 the end off at a 40% angle then flip it over and do it again. you will end up with a saddle (see pic)
    you can alter the % to acomodate non 90% intersections.
    quick and easy.
    Attached Files

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  • Black Wolf
    replied
    I'm a little confused by what you are asking for, but I'll take a stab at it and guess that you are trying make templates to cope pipe.

    To save a bunch of long winded explanations, I'll give you a quickie shortcut that will serve your purposes:

    http://www.harderwoods.com/pipetemplate.php

    Follow this link to the HarderWoods site. Fill out the pipe information on the left column, and it will generate templates for you. Print them out onto paper, and transfer them to cork or paper gasket material, cut them out and you are ready to go. I myself, have used this software to make templates for some oddball stuff, and then I transferred them over to a flexible, thin, magnetic material that I have which holds it to the pipe quite nicely.

    The only information you will need is pipe O.D. and wall thickness, and if you have it closeby, just use a tape measure, or I can supply you a link to pipe schedule charts. Mathey Dearman used to have a good one.

    I have built several grill guards, winch guards and head ache racks for Class 8 semis using coped pipe, so I will offer you a word of wisdom: Measure your pipes VERY carefully.....When you transfer over your measurement to the pipe to be cut - lets say (for example) that 15" is what you need - remember that the 15" is from the BOTTOM of one coped joint, to the BOTTOM of the other coped joint. DON'T FORGET to add the 15/16" (for example) to accomodate the depth of the cope for each end when you lay out your cut lines. After you cut the pipe, then use your templates to chalk out the copes, and the bottom to bottom measurement should be 15".

    Hope this helps.

    On Edit: I see that you are on WW under the username "Metal Man", asking the same question, so I'll copy & post this over there as well. Don't know which site you view more.
    Last edited by Black Wolf; 02-02-2008, 06:49 PM. Reason: Change URL link. Works fine now.

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  • Gsd34me
    replied
    The arrows here are pointing to the kind of cut i'm talking about > ) < I guess you could do it on any size pipe. I guess you could call it notching the end of the pipe so you can weld it to another piece.

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  • phaxtris
    replied
    if you are talking about bigger pipe they make attachments to go on saddle bevellers to make thos types of cuts, otherwise there is the grinder and torch to make the cuts

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  • k.a.m.
    replied
    Like what? i don't see a picture am i missing something? i guess you are referring to a saddle? if it is small pipe like 11/2''or 2'' i set my chop-saw at 25deg. and cut off a centerline, anything bigger i use my wrap-around and lay it out with a soap stone. i hope this helps.

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