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What are the best drill bits

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  • Laiky
    replied
    I have a set of bits for about 15 years, broke one or 2 sharpened them all once when i got my drill doctor. If you use them right they last a long time. Much shorter in a production environment i know but they can be made to last if your patient but sometime speed counts.

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  • mikeswelding
    replied
    Best drill bits

    For anything over 1/2" diameter, the best bit may not be a bit at all, but rather an annular cutter. They are usually associated with mag drills because of the 3/4" chuck requirement, but I have a set of minicutters with an adapter that allows them to be used with a 3/8" chuck.

    These cutters are three times faster, produce half as much shaving, do not "grab" when coming out the other side of the material, and can be used to overlap an existing hole. Cost is about the same as the equivilent drill size and can be re-sharpened. These are all I use anymore for 1/2" to 1 1/4" holes. (The design does not allow for smaller diameters.)

    Only drawback as far as I have found is that they must be used in a press. The tooth design is not meant for freehand in a handheld drill.

    My supplier is magneticdrilldirect.com and their prices and service have been excellent.

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  • pegleg1
    replied
    I also like the step bits from HF. I use the long skinny one all the time and bought 5 sets or so just to have them in differant places in the shop.

    For about $9.00 you can not go wrong to often. I wait till they are on sale and buy them up.


    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91616

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  • monte55
    replied
    My bits are not in an everyday shop enviroment and they are only used by me. I also have a lot of other bits but not in sets. If I have a hole to drill and I have that size in a loose bit, I'll use it otherwise I go to this set. I hate partial sets and bits thrown everyhere. A lot of my projects involve drilling and tapping and I always the correct bit in my set Yea! You can forget it if others are using the same tools. How many times has Paul Sr gone upstairs
    looking for a drill bit?

    Leave a comment:


  • tacmig
    replied
    O.K., just a minute!

    Originally posted by monte55 View Post
    I have the black oxide 115 piece set by CL I've had since 94......118 degrees
    I've only broken one small bit so far. Good bits!

    What do you drill that you prefer 135 degree bits over the 118 degree?
    I also have the large Drill Doctor. Love it. I still feel that one that sharpens bits by eye on a grinder with bit in hand is not going to be doing any precision drilling. Making a hole is easy. Making a precise hole in metal where you want it is another thing.
    Let me make sure I've read this right. You say you have a 115 Pc. drill set for 14 years and the only problem you have is the loss of one of the small one's?? If this is correct what would it take to hire you? 14 years? Holy $hi# with cheese! We go through a dozen if not more in a week! Yes our presses see a lot of drilling (our pref is cobalt) but still 14 years and only the loss of one bit?? Oh man tell me it's not true.

    TacMig

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  • bjfab
    replied
    bits

    I still have some of the bits left from my original set purcahsed in 1975. I ahve bought other sets since but have only bought HSS bits. They have been used in air drills, electic drills and drill presses. I believe that keeping them sharp and the correct pressure are the most important. Any oil for holes up to one inch thick material has worked well. If tapping the holes then rapid-tap is a very good product. I built my own hydraulic press at home and needed to drill 32 one inch holes through 3/4 inch material. I did not have a one inch bit at that time so I used a hole saw and a lot of engine oil. I still use the same hole saw.

    Byron

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  • monte55
    replied
    I will agree that everyone who uses a drill much should learn how to sharpen
    a bit with a grinder if not only to help to understand the geometry of the cutting surface. Different bit angles for different metals etc. I was very surprised the first time I went to drill a deep hole in brass only to have the brass grab the bit with a death grip and tried to complete the hole in 1 rpm or less. I was using a 118 degree which can really grab softer metals if you're not careful.
    Anyway........the reason some say to learn to grind your bits in the field is if you break a bit. Good reason. Here's an idea........take more than one bit.

    True story..........I was helping a guy do an interior and exterior iron railing
    job at a very nice home. We are delivering the last of the exterior to install on concrete and rock. I brought the railing and he brought the tools. We had about 40 3/8" holes to drill...............he brings his Dewalt XRP hammer drill
    (cordless) and an extra battery(dead).........and 1 cheap masonry bit (dull).
    The day was not going well. Finally after he got over his baby fit, I went to my van and found a set of bits I always carry. He's good at what he does but hardly ever prepared properly. Whenever I go to a job, I have a backup on most everything I will need. It beats finding a hardware store when you're
    in the boondocks or asking the customer if you can borrow their B&D set.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcstott
    replied
    Sharp bits!!!!!
    Here's what I use
    HSS (high speed steel) for just about everything. Then switch to 5%cobalt HSS drills for tougher stuff. I hate Tin coated drills because they are only coated and as soon as they go dull and you re-sharpen then there goes the coating.Tin are for production drilling not home or shop use. The advantages of Tin will not be realized until you have drilled a few hundred holes with the same drill. In a production setting Tin will make the bit last a lot longer.

    When I bust off a tap or some other tool steel part in a work piece I then go to solid carbide. They are very expensive and have a very limited use in a drill press, they are very fragile but are sometimes the only thing that will cut a hardened piece of steel.
    One skill you should learn is how to properly sharpen a drill bit. Most of you will have a bench grinder and it will be hauled to the field. Those drill sharpening gizmos are good but will most likely be left at home.
    Then learn about cutting speeds and how it affects your bits.
    Kerry

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  • monte55
    replied
    Originally posted by jake View Post
    i like the 135deg cle-line black oxide bits, ive got a drill doc to sharpen them back up. ive avoided the brad point since there almost impossible to sharpen.

    alot of times once ive sharpened them a bunch and the dia is getting a bit less at the bottom ill cut a inch off them grind it up on the bench grinder some and stickit in the drill doc and its good as new
    I have the black oxide 115 piece set by CL I've had since 94......118 degrees
    I've only broken one small bit so far. Good bits!

    What do you drill that you prefer 135 degree bits over the 118 degree?
    I also have the large Drill Doctor. Love it. I still feel that one that sharpens bits by eye on a grinder with bit in hand is not going to be doing any precision drilling. Making a hole is easy. Making a precise hole in metal where you want it is another thing.
    Last edited by monte55; 01-06-2008, 09:30 AM.

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  • tnjind
    replied
    I have used a drill doctor but still prefer to do it by hand.

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  • migman69
    replied
    Originally posted by tnjind View Post
    I try to buy USA made. Not Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart etc.
    But the key is appropriate speed and feed. Once it dulls then sharpen it. Learn to sharpen bits, it sucks but need to do it. I have two small cabinets for 1/16 - 1/2" each compartment holds about a dozen to about half dozen depending on size.
    I have Used a Chinese 5/8 to punch 40 holes in 3/4 plate without sharpening because of the right speed,feed and lubricant.
    drill doctor it is the best

    Leave a comment:


  • jake
    replied
    i like the 135deg cle-line black oxide bits, ive got a drill doc to sharpen them back up. ive avoided the brad point since there almost impossible to sharpen.

    alot of times once ive sharpened them a bunch and the dia is getting a bit less at the bottom ill cut a inch off them grind it up on the bench grinder some and stickit in the drill doc and its good as new

    Leave a comment:


  • KBar
    replied
    Originally posted by tasslehawf View Post
    If they have a center point, they may be brad-point, which are specifically designed for wood.
    A brad point is used to push into wood on your mark, these are cut and sharpened to help keep the bit from wandering on metal, almost like drilling a pilot hole. They are cobalt bits. I stand corrected though, they are called pilot point not center point. It also cuts down on lock up when you get through the metal.
    Last edited by KBar; 01-05-2008, 01:30 PM.

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  • tasslehawf
    replied
    Originally posted by KBar View Post
    It is a Dewalt set in a plastic case, they have a center point on the bits, I can't honestly say what kind they are..
    If they have a center point, they may be brad-point, which are specifically designed for wood.

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  • tnjind
    replied
    Neat looking "specialty" bit. Sometimes you get less then you pay for.

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