I am going to build a pipe fence up my driveway about 250' feet 2 3/8 pipe with four runs of 1'' pipe no top rail the only thing like that I have ever built is a few coners and a brace or two . How do I keep the tops of the pipe post straight without that top rail. thanks
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Pipe or Tube?
Just to help you out, tube is usually measured by the OD. Pipe is often from average or agreed upon ID. 2 3/8" OD "pipe" could be 2" sc 40, etc.... 2 3/8" tube is 2 3/8" OD and the wall thickness is usually in hundredths. 2 3/8" tube with a wall of .110 or .120 is common. Take my word for it that 2" or2 3/8" tube with a wall of .062 or.083 dents easily. This is what the green mass produced livestock fences are made out of. 1" tube with a wall of .120 is also common.
Good Luck with the fence.Last edited by deafman; 01-09-2011, 07:06 PM.
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2 3/8" (oil-field)tubing has several classifications some of it is NUE (non upset ending) as in no upset at the threads, EUE (external upset ending) is flared at the ends prior to threading. The OD of 2 3/8 tubing is the same as 2" pipe and can be threaded with 2" dies.. the main difference with oil field tubing is the chrome molly content.. hit it with a hammer and hear it sing.. Welding can be tricky too as most used tubing is magnetized..
To answer your question on keeping things straight use a string line or laser to cut off the tops after the cement has dried..Last edited by Pass-N-Gas; 01-09-2011, 09:11 PM.Steve
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You can do it the way fencemen do it.
I saddle all my posts first and then set them for height and line by eye.
http://www.harveylacey.com/id27.htm
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"Straight Line"
Originally posted by Txcoonhunter View PostMy question is how do I keep the tops of the pipe,tubing, or drill pipe at the same higth? Do I run a string at the top or use a mesuring stick mark the pipe before I place it in the ground ? The pipe is 2 3/8 drill pipe cut on 8'. thanks
If not, Mason's string line and a magnetic "torpedo" level will suffice. You can also take some re-bar, and bend a couple of pieces into a long "S" and hang from the 1" laterals for uniform spacing. Similar to when elecrtricians used a "story board" before the advent of laser levels, when placing outlet boxes on studs.
DavidLast edited by davedarragh; 01-09-2011, 10:23 PM."Bonne journe'e mes amis"
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"On the Level"
Originally posted by Txcoonhunter View PostThanks for your knowledge and your willingness to share it with a newbee thanks
You stated "up my driveway." Is there a slope? Grade percentages are computed by the rise in elevation divided by the grade. The posts should always be plumb and true, and the rails can follow the terrain. A "Bobcat" with an auger and depth gauge (like on a Hilti Drill) is a timesaver too. It's really not hard to do, just needs to be planned and layed out properly.
If you don't want to deal with coping the rails and intricate angles, flatten the ends, trim to fit, and weld to the posts.
DavidLast edited by davedarragh; 01-10-2011, 12:44 PM."Bonne journe'e mes amis"
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My word! You can sure make this stuff more complicated than necessary. I am not a rig or pipeline or super talented nuclear process plant welder, but I do know how to build fence. Pull a heavy string line to set your post as you want them. If it's a long straight stretch, set every forth or fifth post and eyeball them against the string. When you have those set, go back and fill in with the remainder of post. Reason being, the post already set will help keep the wind or grass from throwing your line off. Now that your post are set, measure up the post and make a mark at the height your wanting. Tie your string to the first post at that height, and pull to last post. Take thin wire, electrical tape or string and twitch the string line up every other post or so at the marked level your shooting for. Step back and look at it from different places to see where to adjust to make the fence FLOW. If you follow the height from the ground on each post it's going to look like a drunk snake. Or you can try the transit level, but I have built fence on very few completely flat places. Hope this helps. Not trying to get anybodies dander up here, just actually have done this steadily for the last 20 years.
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Originally posted by FUZZYTX View PostMy word! You can sure make this stuff more complicated than necessary. I am not a rig or pipeline or super talented nuclear process plant welder, but I do know how to build fence. Pull a heavy string line to set your post as you want them. If it's a long straight stretch, set every forth or fifth post and eyeball them against the string. When you have those set, go back and fill in with the remainder of post. Reason being, the post already set will help keep the wind or grass from throwing your line off. Now that your post are set, measure up the post and make a mark at the height your wanting. Tie your string to the first post at that height, and pull to last post. Take thin wire, electrical tape or string and twitch the string line up every other post or so at the marked level your shooting for. Step back and look at it from different places to see where to adjust to make the fence FLOW. If you follow the height from the ground on each post it's going to look like a drunk snake. Or you can try the transit level, but I have built fence on very few completely flat places. Hope this helps. Not trying to get anybodies dander up here, just actually have done this steadily for the last 20 years.
Seriously, if you took the time to lay out string a real fenceman would already be setting posts that didn't need to be trimmed for height.
Think about it. How do you check your string job? You sight it. We just skip the string because it takes too much time.
As for the laser stuff. I have the Hilti laser that does all the trick stuff, love it for construction, barns, houses, etc. It never comes off the truck for fences except for building tall overheads etc.
I've been in Texas for over twenty five years and still get a kick out of the string and wire methods for fencing.
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Originally posted by FUZZYTX View PostMy word! You can sure make this stuff more complicated than necessary. Step back and look at it from different places to see where to adjust to make the fence FLOW. If you follow the height from the ground on each post it's going to look like a drunk snake. Or you can try the transit level, but I have built fence on very few completely flat places. Hope this helps. Not trying to get anybodies dander up here, just actually have done this steadily for the last 20 years.To keep this within the scope of "Welding Projects," I'll make the Gazebo out of 304 Stainless.
Last edited by davedarragh; 01-13-2011, 08:03 AM."Bonne journe'e mes amis"
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