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Working in a lot of chemical plants, I see almost every welding table with a 2x2x1/8" angle welded to one side. It is used to hold little piece like blots, nuts, etc.
I would like to see some others means of "leveling" a table.
I've got a small vise on one corner of my table and it is also wired with a 110 receptacle under one corner and a switch under another that controls a light above it. I've also welded a piece of pipe on one leg for a MIG Gun and a couple of hooks for my hood, stinger, whatever i happen to stick there. I also put a shelf under it for storing small things and tools.
As for how to level a table, the best way I know of is to weld a nut on the inside of each of the legs. Then just thread a bolt all the way into each one and back the ones out that you need to to make it sit level.
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I think this could go on for months! Its what ever YOU need,,weather its a bar ti hang vice grips,,I have recievers in all my benches,and my heavy set up tables,,Abd to the lekding bech on my portable,,can take any thing fom any bench,,But as I said,,Its what YOU need!!!!!!!!!!!!Good Luck,Jack
My table is 4' X 6'. On one end I cut out an 18" X 30" opening that holds a piece of bar grate for cutting. There is a tray under that to catch slag, etc.
I built a 2' X 2' drawer about 4" deep to hold soapstone, small clamps, mig pliers, and small hand tools. One one end I welded a piece ot flat between 2 legs to hang larger c-clamps. Also welded lots of hooks to hang plasma cutter, mig gun, torch.
But most important, make sure you have room for a coffee pot, beer cooler, and first aid kit. (Just kidding, but barely.)
I built the table for which Miller has provided full plans (but, no plasma chute until I have plasma, and 3 x 5 instead of 4 x 6 feet). The 2 x 2 x 1/8 square tubing is open on the ends. I think I will eventually add a table extender to at least one end. This could be as simple as rails that slide out of those tubing openings, with an attachable top, or a complete unit that could slide into the openings to attach.
One problem I've noted is that the inside tubing seams will interfere with sliding of an otherwise properly sized inner tube. How do people remove those seams? Or, maybe I'd have to use round tubing, as the seams are off near an edge.
If they're short enough pieces, you can file or broach the seam out.
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>> does anyone have some photo of some welding tables getting ready to build one .
Brian, here's a pic of my nearly done table from the Miller plans. My first welding project, with a new MM180. I learned too late that the edges of the 3/8 plate could droop a little, with voltage high enough to get good penetration. Glad I used scrapyard plate. I think I should have welded the top on along the inside edge of the frame, rather than the more accessible outside edge. Or, maybe I should have turned the whole thing over, rather than sitting on my butt and doing overhead welds.
>> You put shims inside the tube to offset the seam.
Fishy Jim, thanks. Yeah, and I guess I should have made sure all the seams were turned the same way, so shims could be applied the same everywhere needed.
>> does anyone have some photo of some welding tables getting ready to build one .
Brian, here's a pic of my nearly done table from the Miller plans. My first welding project, with a new MM180. I learned too late that the edges of the 3/8 plate could droop a little, with voltage high enough to get good penetration. Glad I used scrapyard plate. I think I should have welded the top on along the inside edge of the frame, rather than the more accessible outside edge. Or, maybe I should have turned the whole thing over, rather than sitting on my butt and doing overhead welds.
>> You put shims inside the tube to offset the seam.
Fishy Jim, thanks. Yeah, and I guess I should have made sure all the seams were turned the same way, so shims could be applied the same everywhere needed.
thanks for the photo ed. inside or outside welds the table still looks great.
I wanted to post some pics of some of the welding/work tables I've made (I've made 7). My original table was 4'x6' with a 1/4" welded to the top. I quickly discovered that that warps the top. The tables I'm using these days are are 2x2x.125 square tubing monsters that are designed to hold 1000+ lbs of concrete countertops. Since they have melamine tops on them, I've discovered the best way to weld on them is use 4 large rect. tubing pieces to clamp to and keep the piece off the wood top and also keep the piece level. Anyway here's some pics.
The way I made these tables was to make the top and bottom a mitered square. then I welded 3 cross-pieces in the top and one in the bottom and welded the top and bottom together with 6 verticle pieces (8 on the 10' tables).
As a self-taught welder I've developed a technique that may or may not be correct, but it works for me. I tack-weld everything into place first (two welds at each contact point for sq. tubing). I have a set of cast aluminum 90" braces that I got for $25 each. I clamp onto these braces and tack-weld. I try to do all 4 corners clamped at once if possible. Once THE ENTIRE pieces has been tack welded together I go back and weld strategically to create the greatest strength but not welding enough welds to make it warp. I have never had a weld break on these tables and we use them pretty roughly. I'll weld symmetrically to cut down on warping. Sometimes I'll weld to make it warp in a certain direction.
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I assume this is a soloution to being able to slide one size square tube inside another. If so where and what would the shims look like. ?
Confused
Wacko
Rather than use shims, go to where you get your metal, ask them for tubing that they use for receivers on class 3 hitches. It has a name but flew past my mind for a moment. This stuff is seam free. Saves a lot of headaches. I always try to keep a small section of it on hand.
Ken
What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that
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