Garage built Christmas gifts
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I actually got a lot of interest in the keychains/dogtags I made on a local car club site(www.motownmuscle.com)
I've made up a few so far:
The old english "D" is still my favorite
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I made this table base for my wife. It goes under an art-deco style concrete top I made a few years ago.
The original table was on top of those crazy looking legs. My wife bought them, but they made the table too tall (32" overall height). I made a new base for Christmas dinner that made the table 30" overall plus the ability to get chairs/legs under the table comfortably.Miller Maxstar 200 DX
RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
Hitachi 4.5" grinder
http://mhayesdesign.com
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Originally posted by jdustu View Postyeah, 11's on stock internals isn't too hard, but I don't want to spend the money on the tb and intake. The mid length headers were needed because up until recently the car was lowered two inches. And I was hoping to do it on drag radials. I think I would be there with the ten bolt, and I'd be close with the 9". I really like the convertor, but I don't have any experience with anything else, so maybe ignorance is bliss. I drove it a ton last summer, I even took it on the power tour and got 21 mpg. This started as a fun side driver while I worked on the buick, but everytime I turn around I'm messing with the camaro.
I cut a 1.64 on the nitto drs with the ten bolt. I would pry try the et streets if i keep the car. I've got other stuff to work on though, and this thing has just been taking up too much time and space.
The moser never fit right. I've got a body mounted spohn t/a, and I ended up shortening it because the moser sits too far foward. I have double adjustable lcas, and I had to cut and reweld them shorter as well. I have an adjustable lower panhard, lca relocation brackets, qa1 12 way adjustable shocks, and now i have strano springs. I've jerked around with it all summer, and everytime I thought I had it, I didn't. If you've got any suggestions, let me know. If I try to get the 9" to work again this spring, I'll get back with you too, I appreciate it.
Still have a front sway bar?
I have found most auto LS1's to work best with a ~ -1 pinion degree.
Disconnect, or remove front sway bar (street car usually just disconnect)
And for the shocks up front... I have had the most luck with setting them on the loosest setting, make a pass, adjust tight enough for weight transfer to still occur, without bouncing or wheel jerking. Totally dependednt on the car. I know people who run it on 2 with great results, and people who run on 8 with great results.... it all depends on how she reacts.
How does she leave, hard/violent (wheels up) or soft n steady?Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.
Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.
2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
2000 Camaro SS (Race car)
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Originally posted by Badd00SS View PostWhat is your pinion angle set at? And your QA1's, I assume those are up front, stock rears?
Still have a front sway bar?
I have found most auto LS1's to work best with a ~ -1 pinion degree.
Disconnect, or remove front sway bar (street car usually just disconnect)
And for the shocks up front... I have had the most luck with setting them on the loosest setting, make a pass, adjust tight enough for weight transfer to still occur, without bouncing or wheel jerking. Totally dependednt on the car. I know people who run it on 2 with great results, and people who run on 8 with great results.... it all depends on how she reacts.
How does she leave, hard/violent (wheels up) or soft n steady?
One local shop suggested I go back to stock springs, because the Strano's are progressive. But I have hooked on the street with the Strano springs before. I put the stock ones in anyways, but still hopped. The moser has never fit right, it still makes more than normal clunking noises(not the gears, the suspension) when changing directions, and I really think that somehow it has screwed up the geometry. When I first installed it, the front of the torque arm was about 3" farther ahead then when the 10 bolt was in. I couldn't even center the wheels in the wheelwell with adjustable lcas, I had to shorten them. I've spent the entire summer messing with it. There have been times where it seems like I've got it, then the next time I go out it's completely jacked up again. There was one time when I adjusted the LCAs to get the rear even, took it for a drive, came back and the rear had moved but the lcas were still locked down. That makes no sense to me
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Originally posted by tasslehawf View PostI made this table base for my wife. It goes under an art-deco style concrete top I made a few years ago.
The original table was on top of those crazy looking legs. My wife bought them, but they made the table too tall (32" overall height). I made a new base for Christmas dinner that made the table 30" overall plus the ability to get chairs/legs under the table comfortably.
That base is pretty dope.
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