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  • toofazt
    replied
    Thanks guys

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  • journeyman
    replied
    ss

    almost forgot both you guys might benefit from trying different techniques of feeding your filler. allowing capillary attraction to take the filler is one, but i've always prefered the washing technique.

    just lay your filler rod down and use a slight side to side motion. you'll notice that you can get away with much less amps with this technique. you'll sometimes have to manipulate the rod but this way is easier to achieve an appearance of a uniformed bead, especially for a novice.

    much patience and good luck

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  • journeyman
    replied
    ss

    toofazt

    to reduce burn through at the end of your weld travel the other way. weld inbound from the outer edge so that the heat has somewhere to go. to reduce heat traces you'll have to strain your eyes and get in there tighter. less amps and adequit gas coverage is the only answer.

    as for the solution for removing heat traces it is called "pickling paste" highly acidic so be careful and follow instructions, but it does wash off with just water.

    signwave, your grey black crap, thats called "carbide percipitation"
    this is the result of holding the material in the 800-1500deg/f for too long.

    hope this gives a better understanding

    Carbide Percipitation= occurs in the 800-1500d/f range and is a result of chromium being depleted from grain boundries and forming with carbon, hence the name carbide percipitation. this depletion causes a loss of corrosion resistance. another trade name is "sugar".

    your simply too hot or your spending too much time in the area. excessive heat leads to excessive heat traces which leads to "sugar/ grey black/carbide percipitation"

    if you guys need anymore help feel free to ask

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  • toofazt
    replied
    Originally posted by SignWave View Post
    toofazt,
    thats a nice looking weldment. I cant seem to get my SS welds to look like that. they are all grey black and ugly looking... Im definelty doing something wrong. I'll post later on as i am making a retainer for a plate of glass.

    as for the heat marks, there is a product availble that will "wash" those marks off. without the use of abrasives or buffing. I wish i could give you the name of it.. Sorry.

    If you call up one of the local metal guys, they may be able to give you the name of it. I suspect its some sort of readily availble acid... I dont kow any more than that.

    Rich
    Thanks Rich. If anyone knows the name of the "metal wash" to remove the heat marks that would be great!

    Leave a comment:


  • SignWave
    replied
    toofazt,
    thats a nice looking weldment. I cant seem to get my SS welds to look like that. they are all grey black and ugly looking... Im definelty doing something wrong. I'll post later on as i am making a retainer for a plate of glass.

    as for the heat marks, there is a product availble that will "wash" those marks off. without the use of abrasives or buffing. I wish i could give you the name of it.. Sorry.

    If you call up one of the local metal guys, they may be able to give you the name of it. I suspect its some sort of readily availble acid... I dont kow any more than that.

    Rich

    Leave a comment:


  • toofazt
    replied
    Alright, I'm pretty happy with the stainless steel results I've had for my first try I still need to work on ending the weld w/o burning through the steel...

    .040 Tungsten, 13CFH. Scrap 20GA mirror finish stainless. Don't need to use any filler if the joint is tight. Anyone know where I can get some stainless filler rod smaller than 1/16"?

    Is there any tricks to minimizing the heat marks on the stainless other than less amperage?





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  • arrowside
    replied
    Sorry- The stuff that I told you to check was for Al. I would definitely get the mill scale off.

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  • toofazt
    replied
    Thanks again guys. I never thought I was gonna pick TIG up in a second, but little tips along the way from the experienced never hurt

    I'll try grinding it w/ the flap disks and see how it goes

    Leave a comment:


  • rickhunt@backroads.net
    replied
    nasty tig2

    After relooking at your post your plate isnt as thick as i had thought..so forget about beveling it..just grind it untill it shines and try walking the cup if you arn't already. Tig isnt easy..practice..practice...practice.

    Leave a comment:


  • rickhunt@backroads.net
    replied
    nasty tig

    I can see several problems..one is that you seem to be long arcing..also your travel speed is too high and the metal isn't prepped properly. Use that grinder. What rate was your argon set ? What size cup were you using ? How far was the tung sticking out ? Too much gas is as bad as too little gas. Thats also not a very good method for welding that size plate. Bevel the plate to a 37 1/2 degree angle, put a 1/8 inch landing on it and then separate the plates 1/8 inch and use 1/8 inch filler to run the root.
    Anyone else have a better Idea?..I'd also invest in a gas lens and some gas cups number 4,6,8 maybe a 10 also.

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    this is the best $ i have found on a quality disk.
    http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/servlet/StoreFront
    they are not walker's but for $2 each they are the best deal i have found. the quality is good also, its not cheepo crap like you would expect for the $. i was verry happy with the ones i got from them.

    Leave a comment:


  • toofazt
    replied
    Thanks guys. The blasting media I use is glass bead also, so I can't really see that affecting the weld. I will keep trying and using different methods until I find what works for me; not trying to rush it

    I'll post back with any progress! Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:


  • fun4now
    replied
    Good to know! So the only way I should prep the surface is with acetone and a stainless wire brush? Or grinder?
    if you don't already have them get some flap disks for your 4.5" grinder. they are fast and easy for cleaning up. work great after the weld also.
    you might try upping the gas flow, or turning it down if it's too high it can cause turbulence and pull air into the weld. also make shore you don't have a draft coming across your work area. about 25 should be ok for gas if the air is still in the work area. i missed what you said it was set to, but i have gotten that black when i let my gas setting creep on me as my tank used up.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    thats strange i found stainless pretty smooth going. you do need good gas coverage and for a little longer than steel. i bump up the post flow a bit and go a little slower. thin stuff needs back gassing for shore or its .
    other than that i thought it was about the nicest to weld.

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  • SignWave
    replied
    I think your touching the puddle too. when you do touch, the arc will make a crackly sound. iit wont hiss anymore for the time there is contact. its a nasty sound.. listen for it and then try to avoid it. And there may also be a flash of light as the arc is quenched and restruck. I spent the day building a stool to rest my big fat a$$. I touched the rod and the puddle alot. there was soot and smut everywhere... the end result turned out okay. Im sure my big fat a$$ wont mind a little charcoal..

    and the suggestion to be patient, its a good one. Relax slow down, look around the puddle, study the arc, whats the steel doing? wheres the rod. how far above the work is the electrode. is the angel right? etc etc. if you take the time to look at these things you wil be able to jump start your learning curve three fold..

    My machine just hit 11 hours of process... so far so good. I suck at stainless though...

    In the pic i reposted (PC190019), Im pretty sure what ive said within the photo is correct, but if i am wrong I will stand corrected.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SignWave; 12-19-2007, 11:48 PM.

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