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  • #16
    its the mil scale. trust me. grind it off so there is none closer than 1/2" to your weld. it should come out looking nicer and no black soot.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Canada View Post
      its the mil scale. trust me. grind it off so there is none closer than 1/2" to your weld. it should come out looking nicer and no black soot.
      Really? I sand blasted it about 1" from the edge of each piece. I'll clean it better and try again... Thanks for the suggestion

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      • #18
        Theres your problem. Don't sand blast it. Blasting inbeds oxides and blasting media into the metal contaminating the welds. Since there arn't realy any scavenging agents alloyed into most Tig rods there can't be any contaminanints in the weld zone. We had the same problem at the last company I worked at. I kept telling them to stop blasting everything but they never listened. 45% of production time was spent making repairs.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Anti-GMAW View Post
          I kept telling them to stop blasting everything but they never listened. 45% of production time was spent making repairs.
          I think this happens in all places of business, where the less informed or less educated fail to listen to somebody more knowledgable. My favorite saying at work for this is " Never enough time or money to do it right but always enough time and money to do it over "
          Ken

          What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Anti-GMAW View Post
            Theres your problem. Don't sand blast it. Blasting inbeds oxides and blasting media into the metal contaminating the welds. Since there arn't realy any scavenging agents alloyed into most Tig rods there can't be any contaminanints in the weld zone. We had the same problem at the last company I worked at. I kept telling them to stop blasting everything but they never listened. 45% of production time was spent making repairs.
            Good to know! So the only way I should prep the surface is with acetone and a stainless wire brush? Or grinder? Thanks again, sorry for the newbie questions

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            • #21
              tig probs

              Trust me, your problem is nothing to do with contamination caused by sandblasting. Take it from technical training and years of experience. You've got the idea, just keep your tung out of the puddle and filler off of your electrode

              Try not to freeze your puddle so quick. I notice that in some of the photos theres a small nib so to speak. This is the result of dipping your filler, but extinguishing the arc before the filler can completely puddle in.

              Hope it helps

              One more thing

              HAVE PATIENCE

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              • #22
                I think your touching the puddle too. when you do touch, the arc will make a crackly sound. iit wont hiss anymore for the time there is contact. its a nasty sound.. listen for it and then try to avoid it. And there may also be a flash of light as the arc is quenched and restruck. I spent the day building a stool to rest my big fat a$$. I touched the rod and the puddle alot. there was soot and smut everywhere... the end result turned out okay. Im sure my big fat a$$ wont mind a little charcoal..

                and the suggestion to be patient, its a good one. Relax slow down, look around the puddle, study the arc, whats the steel doing? wheres the rod. how far above the work is the electrode. is the angel right? etc etc. if you take the time to look at these things you wil be able to jump start your learning curve three fold..

                My machine just hit 11 hours of process... so far so good. I suck at stainless though...

                In the pic i reposted (PC190019), Im pretty sure what ive said within the photo is correct, but if i am wrong I will stand corrected.
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                Last edited by SignWave; 12-19-2007, 11:48 PM.
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                • #23
                  thats strange i found stainless pretty smooth going. you do need good gas coverage and for a little longer than steel. i bump up the post flow a bit and go a little slower. thin stuff needs back gassing for shore or its .
                  other than that i thought it was about the nicest to weld.
                  thanks for the help
                  ......or..........
                  hope i helped
                  sigpic
                  feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                  summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                  JAMES

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                  • #24
                    Good to know! So the only way I should prep the surface is with acetone and a stainless wire brush? Or grinder?
                    if you don't already have them get some flap disks for your 4.5" grinder. they are fast and easy for cleaning up. work great after the weld also.
                    you might try upping the gas flow, or turning it down if it's too high it can cause turbulence and pull air into the weld. also make shore you don't have a draft coming across your work area. about 25 should be ok for gas if the air is still in the work area. i missed what you said it was set to, but i have gotten that black when i let my gas setting creep on me as my tank used up.
                    thanks for the help
                    ......or..........
                    hope i helped
                    sigpic
                    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                    JAMES

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                    • #25
                      Thanks guys. The blasting media I use is glass bead also, so I can't really see that affecting the weld. I will keep trying and using different methods until I find what works for me; not trying to rush it

                      I'll post back with any progress! Thanks again.

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                      • #26
                        this is the best $ i have found on a quality disk.
                        Lehigh Valley Abrasives is your source for all your abrasive supply needs. We stock flap discs, surface conditioning discs, abrasive sanding discs, PSA disc rolls, surface conditioning belts and metalworking abrasive sanding belts. We stock the industry trusted manufacturers, Dynabrade, Metabo, Norton, Saint Gobain, United Abrasives, Sait, Flex, Fein and many more.

                        they are not walker's but for $2 each they are the best deal i have found. the quality is good also, its not cheepo crap like you would expect for the $. i was verry happy with the ones i got from them.
                        thanks for the help
                        ......or..........
                        hope i helped
                        sigpic
                        feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. [email protected]
                        summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                        JAMES

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                        • #27
                          nasty tig

                          I can see several problems..one is that you seem to be long arcing..also your travel speed is too high and the metal isn't prepped properly. Use that grinder. What rate was your argon set ? What size cup were you using ? How far was the tung sticking out ? Too much gas is as bad as too little gas. Thats also not a very good method for welding that size plate. Bevel the plate to a 37 1/2 degree angle, put a 1/8 inch landing on it and then separate the plates 1/8 inch and use 1/8 inch filler to run the root.
                          Anyone else have a better Idea?..I'd also invest in a gas lens and some gas cups number 4,6,8 maybe a 10 also.

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                          • #28
                            nasty tig2

                            After relooking at your post your plate isnt as thick as i had thought..so forget about beveling it..just grind it untill it shines and try walking the cup if you arn't already. Tig isnt easy..practice..practice...practice.

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                            • #29
                              Thanks again guys. I never thought I was gonna pick TIG up in a second, but little tips along the way from the experienced never hurt

                              I'll try grinding it w/ the flap disks and see how it goes

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                              • #30
                                Sorry- The stuff that I told you to check was for Al. I would definitely get the mill scale off.
                                "smokin' joints for 19 yrs."

                                A.A.S. Weld Tech.

                                AWS CWI 08011711

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