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    c ahner
    Junior Member

  • c ahner
    replied
    I have used the jigs that you trace and then cut with the torch, and like others i prefer the shur kut.
    The best saddles that i have ever cut have been wtih the chop saw using Archer's Pipe Saddle cutter. I have used it for guard rail, hand rail and pipe fences of all sizes. You need only the one jig for 1/2"-4".
    It basicly sets you saw up to cut 30* angles. The draw back in you cant cut saddles in pipe that is already in the ground.
    Here is a link to the website.
    http://www.uswelder.com/store/ArcherAccessories.html

    Leave a comment:

  • wroughtnharv
    Senior Member

  • wroughtnharv
    replied
    I've had the shur kuts for years. In fact I have one that I didn't see available on their web site. It's for saddling two and three eighths to two and three eighths at one end. On the other it's set up for saddling two and three eighths to two and seven eighths.

    I don't think I've used them for probably five years or more. If I'm doing a bunch of pipe posts or building rail fence I use my Vogel.

    If I'm just doing one or two pieces then I use the portaband. I can saddle a joint easier and faster than most people can with a torch using the portaband. This is especially true if you consider set up time. There's no sparks which can be important when there's a fire hazard.

    Leave a comment:

  • CrazyHorse!
    Senior Member

  • CrazyHorse!
    replied
    marking saddle cuts for pipe fencing ~ Pic of stencil tool

    Pic of a tool we use for marking the saddle cut works great and is fast and easy if you already have pipe in the ground or for pre cut pipe

    Here is a pic of what you need they can be bought at most local welding supply stores for different sizes of pipe.

    hope this helps
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

  • captkipp
    Senior Member

  • captkipp
    replied
    Shur Kut

    Originally posted by dan c View Post
    I just bought one. Have not used it yet! I called Shur Kut and they had one of their vendors call me. I placed the order and it showed up one week latter like clock work. Now if I can just get it to stop raining so I can start my fence project!
    Here's the contact info for Shur Kut:

    WWW.SHURKUT.NET

    Shur-Kut

    Midland, Texas

    Phone: (432) 689-2343

    Fax: (432) 689-2795

    Toll-Free: 1-877-689-2343

    Leave a comment:

  • dan c
    Junior Member

  • dan c
    replied
    Originally posted by ddivinia View Post
    I used a Shur Kut this weekend and I must have a set. I can't find any place that sells them. Can I buy them online?

    Thanks,
    Darin
    I just bought one. Have not used it yet! I called Shur Kut and they had one of their vendors call me. I placed the order and it showed up one week latter like clock work. Now if I can just get it to stop raining so I can start my fence project!

    Leave a comment:

  • captkipp
    Senior Member

  • captkipp
    replied
    Brake Cleaner!

    Originally posted by Make-It-Hot View Post
    Well, you wouldn't want to buy a hole saw at Home Depot. If you spent $25-30 on a decent Hole Saw say at Rex Supply, or some other tooling supply house, and used a shot of cutting oil for each joint you could cut a thousand miles worth of saddles with only one hole saw. After you get the saddles cut hit each joint with a shot of brake cleaner or carb cleaner so the oil won't contaminate your weld and you're off to the races. I think McMaster-Carr has high quality hole saws you can buy online at www.mcmaster-carr.com.

    I've cut access openings in header pipe for lateral joints using a hole saw in an End Mill and many times the header pipe was A108 Grade B xxh and I've never had a problem wearing out hole saws. Just use cutting fluid and watch your speed.

    Clearly, the best way to fit fence, regardless of the joint, is with a template and a torch, whether oxy-act or plasma; however, the gentleman said he was having difficulty with this and so I just offered a different alternative.

    For any given problem there exists an infinite number of solutions.

    Brake cleaner smoke is highly toxic. Don't do this. One breath of the smoke can put you on the ground and maybe in it.

    Leave a comment:

  • m.k.swelding
    Senior Member

  • m.k.swelding
    replied
    I would just do it with the torch. I made a a jig when I did A railing job and that worked real well.

    Leave a comment:

  • Daniel
    Senior Member

  • Daniel
    replied
    I have to shime in. The notch you'll have to do will be a half moon about 3/8 deep on each side. You'll have a 1 inch square edge on both the non notched side. So I would go around every post and scribe my notches measuring 3/8 deep and using the end of a pipe for the half moon part on both side and grab the torches with a clean # 00 tip and cut all my notches.
    Way faster then anything else. By cutting from the outside in, you wont have a hard time getting rid of the little slag left with a grinding dremmel bit you put on a grinder. fast an easy.

    Leave a comment:

  • ddivinia
    Junior Member

  • ddivinia
    replied
    Shur Kut - Where can I buy them?

    I used a Shur Kut this weekend and I must have a set. I can't find any place that sells them. Can I buy them online?

    Thanks,
    Darin

    Leave a comment:

  • jimmy_pop
    Senior Member

  • jimmy_pop
    replied
    any update?

    Leave a comment:

  • crawdaddy
    Senior Member

  • crawdaddy
    replied
    Originally posted by Make-It-Hot View Post
    Well, you wouldn't want to buy a hole saw at Home Depot. If you spent $25-30 on a decent Hole Saw say at Rex Supply, or some other tooling supply house, and used a shot of cutting oil for each joint you could cut a thousand miles worth of saddles with only one hole saw. After you get the saddles cut hit each joint with a shot of brake cleaner or carb cleaner so the oil won't contaminate your weld and you're off to the races. I think McMaster-Carr has high quality hole saws you can buy online at www.mcmaster-carr.com.

    I've cut access openings in header pipe for lateral joints using a hole saw in an End Mill and many times the header pipe was A108 Grade B xxh and I've never had a problem wearing out hole saws. Just use cutting fluid and watch your speed.

    Clearly, the best way to fit fence, regardless of the joint, is with a template and a torch, whether oxy-act or plasma; however, the gentleman said he was having difficulty with this and so I just offered a different alternative.

    For any given problem there exists an infinite number of solutions.
    That is good to know I will check out the site.Mike

    Leave a comment:

  • Make-It-Hot
    Junior Member

  • Make-It-Hot
    replied
    Beaver Brand

    Well, you wouldn't want to buy a hole saw at Home Depot. If you spent $25-30 on a decent Hole Saw say at Rex Supply, or some other tooling supply house, and used a shot of cutting oil for each joint you could cut a thousand miles worth of saddles with only one hole saw. After you get the saddles cut hit each joint with a shot of brake cleaner or carb cleaner so the oil won't contaminate your weld and you're off to the races. I think McMaster-Carr has high quality hole saws you can buy online at www.mcmaster-carr.com.

    I've cut access openings in header pipe for lateral joints using a hole saw in an End Mill and many times the header pipe was A108 Grade B xxh and I've never had a problem wearing out hole saws. Just use cutting fluid and watch your speed.

    Clearly, the best way to fit fence, regardless of the joint, is with a template and a torch, whether oxy-act or plasma; however, the gentleman said he was having difficulty with this and so I just offered a different alternative.

    For any given problem there exists an infinite number of solutions.

    Leave a comment:

  • crawdaddy
    Senior Member

  • crawdaddy
    replied
    He meant 5 acres

    Not five miles. I wonder how many hole saws he would go through notching schedule 40 pipe a few hundred? I dont think that type of notching is even worthy of consideration for a fence.Mike

    Leave a comment:

  • Make-It-Hot
    Junior Member

  • Make-It-Hot
    replied
    Notch Master Hole Saw Notcher

    For an obvious novice pipefitter cutting 5 miles of top and midrail (?) saddles, I would have to recommend the Notch Master Hole Saw Notcher or something equivalent. You can find the Notch Master for under $200 at www.mtechsales.com/products/Notchers. With a Hole Saw Notcher the fit ups will be close to perfect which will save time and electrode when welding - especially if you are also a novice welder.

    I would also recommend viewing the products available at www.pipefitter.com. There are many valuable books and tools for pipefitters on this site and its run by a real sweet lady. I have personally purchased several items from her over the years and have never been disappointed.
    Make-It-Hot
    Junior Member
    Last edited by Make-It-Hot; 07-31-2009, 11:28 AM.

    Leave a comment:

  • Rockriver
    Junior Member

  • Rockriver
    replied
    Pipe Fence

    During my pipefitting days we would use garlock ring 150#flange gaskets as a pattern for 90 degree stab-ins or saddles.
    Foir 2" IPS i would use a 2" 150# gasket or a 2 1/2 150 # gasket.
    If the 2" was available I would mark the inside of the gasket then cut it 1/8" below the line. If I had a 2 1/2' asket I would mark the pipe using the inside of the gasket. I would use a 000 or a 00 tip. After a couple of tries you will be able to judge how far away from the line to cut for a good fit.
    I did work on a job in which metal templates that were hinged to go around the pipe and lock were used. Very nice,expensive but well worth it if you have a lot of cuts..

    Leave a comment:

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