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pipe fence question

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  • #31
    I dont know if you are interested or not, but this tool will do exactly what you are looking for.

    We use these on pipelines all the time. You already have a torch so all you would need is the jig. You will get a perfect cut each time and you can even set the jig to bevel the pipe so if your wanting to make a root pass you can.

    The only other thing I would suggest is set all the post, cut holes and run the pipe through the post.
    Measure twice, cut once.


    • #32
      I've been reading this thread with interest since I am working on a similar project as we speak.

      I'm building hay feeders for cattle out of 2 3/8" and 2 7/8" drill stem and 1" sucker rod.

      It consists of a frame made of pipe and slates where there heads go through made of sucker rod.

      Wow this has been slow going.

      I'm a young poor farmer just starting out with some metal fab tools.

      I have an old Miller Roughneck 1E engine drive welder, (picked it up out of a classified ad, hadn't run in a number of years but got it going without much trouble) I don't have torches yet or a chop saw so I have been doing all of the cutting and fitting with a 4.5" angle grinder, (laugh all you want but it does work) I'm super happy so far it looks awesome and I think it will be indestructible, bulls and what not just destroy store bought feeders and they are stupid expensive.

      I'm crimping the ends with a 12 ton manual hydraulic press, started with a big hammer and a piece of I beam but that is some tough stuff.

      I am finding that I have a bit of a hard time striking an arc on that pipe, yes it's rusty but even when I grind it clean it's miserable stuff and rod wants to stick to it like crazy, once I have an arc lit and a good puddle going it welds not bad. I tested a few of my welds with a sledge hammer and couldn't break any so i think I'm set. Just wondering if you guy have any advice as for starting my arc and what not?


      • #33
        What rod are you using? 6011 or 6010 will weld the pipe fine. For the rods I'd run 7018.


        • #34
          I've been using 1/8" 7018 on the whole thing. I've got piles of 6013 around as well but I was told not to use it on this sort of project.

          Like I said once I get going and get some heat it seems to lay a pretty decent bead it's just getting started and a puddle formed then ity seems to weld normal so long as I keep a bead going and weld to the end of the rod.


          • #35
            If you are running AC, 6011 will probably be easier to run on the pipe. I'd still use 7018 on the rods.


            • #36
              Originally posted by bushman View Post
              I am building a steel pipe fence ( 2 3/8" ) for my home and need suggestions on how to cut the saddle out of the line post so the top rail rail sits smooth on top. I've tried the torch but have problems with slag and rough cut. Any tools or tricks I should know about? I've got about 5 acres to do and It will take me FOREVER at this rate!
              Pipemaster tools will probably be your lifesaver.
              What you want to do is: (after you have your upright posts in the ground)
              1. Slip the pipemaster over the post
              2. Set your top rail on the post
              3. Push the pipemaster up so the pins contour the top rail
              4. Set the top rail aside
              5. Slide the pipemaster back down the post and trace out the pattern
              6. Cut and weld

              Hope this helps.


              • #37
                Wow that is a great link...Bob
                Bob Wright


                • #38
                  Tool, I don't know if I can offer you any help or not as you might have already gotten through your project. I have been building pipe fence and pens for the last ten years, so I will share some of my experience. If you can locate a few pipe templates for the 2 7/8'' and 2 3/8'' pipe along with a good torch, it will speed things up. Welding rusty pipe is hard to beat with a 6010 rod. It will burn through most any trash on the pipe. If there is bunches of rust, paint, or dirt you probably best wire brush it off the best you can. I do agree with Jim-tx on the 7018 for the sucker rods. We tack those up with the 6010s and get everything in its place, then go back and burn them in with the 7018s. On the used drill stem it can get fun if its magnetized. Hope this helps!


                  • #39
                    Fence post cut out

                    check out your local supply store. they make metal templates for cutting pipe .i would use a torch with the smallest tip that will work for you.


                    • #40
                      Welding pipe fence :

                      Tool, Hi; Did you say if your welder is AC/DC or just an AC Machine ???
                      It sounds to me like your trying to run E7018 DC Rods on an AC welder !!! .... Norm :


                      • #41
                        This is a super old thread that I am bringing back to life.

                        I finished the project I was working on last fall and it turned out beautifully.

                        (It was a large hay feeder that holds several bales for cattle)

                        It weighs a LOT! but bygolly those old cows sure don't bend or break it like they do with cheap store bought feeders.

                        I've got another project to work on this weekend.

                        It's a mobile creep feeder that will be made out of the same matterial, I think I have enough 2 3/8" and 2 7/8" drill stem left as well as a quantity of sucker rod.

                        It's going to be about 8' X 10' and mounted on a mobile home axle so that it can be moved from one field to the next.

                        I'm still interested in hearing about techniques for good fit up of the joints.

                        Somebody asked what rod I'm using, the last project I used AWS 7018 1/8" that says it's for DCEP or AC current.

                        On the last project I used a 12 ton hydraulic press to crimp the pipe ends where they were welded together. I can still use this method but I found that it is very easy to crack the pipe when crimping and 12 ton is barely enough to get a very good crimp at all. SO there is a lot of time wasted filling and messing around when welding the joints.

                        I'm interested in the chop saw method others have mentioned in previous posts, I'd try the holesaw idea but it sounds like that would be pain staking and I can't imagine the holesaw making many cuts before it was junk. Drill stem is VERY hard matterial from my experince and about 1/4" thick matterial.

                        If I understand right, you are talking about notching the end of the pipe with a chop saw about 45 degrees an inch wide?

                        Wouldn't that mean that the cuts will not be the same depth because the wheel will not be in contact with as much of the pipe on the bottom side as the top? Or do you make 4 cuts to make the notches through the pipe the same depth and continuously turning the pipe over?

                        If somebody could explain more that would be great.



                        • #42
                          Originally posted by tool View Post

                          If I understand right, you are talking about notching the end of the pipe with a chop saw about 45 degrees an inch wide?
                          Look here

                          Ed Conley
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                          • #43

                            that's a big help thanks.

                            I don't know why I couldn' vicualise it in my head but I was seeing something enitrely different.

                            I just might try that on this project, looks like it would make better fit up then the hydraulic press squashing technique.

                            Maybe I can make a bit of a jig so it wll go quickly.

                            I'll try it on some scrap tonight.


                            • #44
                              a timely bump to this old post.

                              i'll be starting a 1000' of drill stem 2.375" pipe in a week or so. My vertical posts will be concreted in 10' apart and will cut them an extra 4-6" to tall.

                              Next I'll build a 58" tall saddle cut jig that will slip over these vertical posts and i'll hit them with the plasma cutter.

                              I might have to mount a laser pointer in this jig so im sure to saddle cut all these cuts in the same direction.

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                              • #45
                                Does anybody happen o know the angles off hand for 2 3/8" and/or 2 7/8" pipe?