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  • jcb
    started a topic Shop floor question

    Shop floor question

    I have a 22'X24' shop that I built a few years ago. I constructed the floor using a mini home floor that I had cut into 4 peices then joined them back together in my back yard. It was good deal but I had no idea at the time that I would be getting into welding. Now that I have a plywood floor to deal with, are there any suggestions out there on coatings, cheap coverings of any kind that I could put on top of this floor to allow me to weld inside the shop rather than having to go outdoors all the time with my mm 180 ?

  • jcb
    replied
    Thanks KBar,

    I've seen some of those epoxy finishes. They appear to be very durable. Are you saying that these type of finishes on plywood could withstand welding over them ? If so, this would be ideal, especially if pooring some type of concrete is the only othe logical option.

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  • KBar
    replied
    JCB, I have been looking through our files and I cant find anything on those floors I was telling you about. My boss is on vacation but he comes back on Monday. I'll see if he remembers what it is called or if he has any info on it. Sticks in my mind it was some kind of epoxy mix they sprayed on.

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  • migman69
    replied
    Originally posted by EdZep View Post
    Well, OK, tread plate is one thing, but, my concern is metal flooring specifically in a welding situation. Like if it inadvertently becomes part of the workpiece ground. And, rather than tread plate, I'm thinking of maybe 20 gauge.
    heres what i learned when i was a machinist mate in the us navy. You can use a metal floor just fine if you worried bout grounding out do this get a rubber mat and sit your stool on it or stand on it or whatever problem solved thats what we do at work.

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  • SkidSteerSteve
    replied
    When I have needed to torch or plasma cut something that was real close to the floor, I just dump a few scoops of oil dry under my cutting area and it keeps the concrete from popping out from the heat. Obviously, it wouldn't be very practical for a whole shop, but it works great in spot applications. No matter what you do I'd make sure and have a couple of really good extinguishers on hand at all time. Murphy loves to show up when welding and I'm sure he'd love a wood floor. Especially when a mass of slag finds what was left of the quart of oil that was spilled three weeks prior and soaked under the tread plate to saturated the subfloor

    SSS
    Last edited by SkidSteerSteve; 12-04-2007, 06:28 AM.

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  • EdZep
    replied
    Thanks, FusionKing

    I'll check the price of the lightest tread plate. Maybe it's in the ballpark.

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  • FusionKing
    replied
    Originally posted by EdZep View Post
    Well, OK, tread plate is one thing, but, my concern is metal flooring specifically in a welding situation. Like if it inadvertently becomes part of the workpiece ground. And, rather than tread plate, I'm thinking of maybe 20 gauge.
    I don't see that hurting a thing...sort'a like being on a ship or a truck or any other piece of big equipment. People do it every day. I would be more worried about slipping and busting my @$$. Thats why I suggested tread plate...It's designed to be used for a floor. I'm sure 20 gauge would work tho.

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  • tacmig
    replied
    Holy turd burger..

    Originally posted by DDA52 View Post
    tac, not so fast. Lightweight costs almost double normal mixes here. Plus, it is only about 20#/cuft lighter...nowhere near enough to justify it. Lightweight is subject to area as to whether or not it is even available or if it is cheap or not. Gypcrete is more common here instead of lightweight. No idea about the cost of it, though., I just mess with the regular stuff.


    There are also floor leveling mixes that would work. Self levelers like Ardex might work.
    When we or rather when I had my floor done, they used mesh for the reinforcement (rebar) and poured about 3 inches worth on top of roof paper and 4 mil plastic. The entire cost was $1700.00! I don't know how much it is there, but here So. Cal anything else would have been a lot more and not as good. We have dropped 50 to 100 pounds of material and very, very little damage. And if there is any damage you simply rough it up and pour patch. But we have not had to do any repairs as of date (we have a good sub-floor). I think we can all agree that a concrete floor is the best flooring to use for its fire resistance, sound, solid properties and ease of maintenance. Tile seems as if it would crack, Gypsum board (Wonder board) would also crack and the self leveling goo I've seen would shrink, crack and later peel. At least this has been my experience, but what do I know (know that's a good question)....(:

    TacMig

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  • EdZep
    replied
    metal sheet

    Well, OK, tread plate is one thing, but, my concern is metal flooring specifically in a welding situation. Like if it inadvertently becomes part of the workpiece ground. And, rather than tread plate, I'm thinking of maybe 20 gauge.

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  • FusionKing
    replied
    Metal floor

    Maybe thats why they CALL it tread plate

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  • EdZep
    replied
    metal sheet?

    I've been wondering about a floor protector, as well. My shop has PVC tiles that a car can be parked on. I don't want to tear it out. I asked the welding dealer if a metal floor cover would break any welding safety rules, and he said no. I could use two 5x10 ft. sheets for my main welding area, and I have a heavy duty welding blanket to use elsewhere. Thoughts?

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  • jcb
    replied
    Thanks guys,

    I like the ideas of spray on stuff or laminate tiles. I look forward to hearing from you KBAR on your spray on who manufactures it. Are you saying that laminate will handle the hot stuff the welder will throw at it ? What kind of laminate though ? Beacause the shop is on blocks and winter is harsh in this area, the building is subject to heaving sightly between seasons. For that reason I'm hesitant on using any type of concrete that may crack.

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  • DDA52
    replied
    tac, not so fast. Lightweight costs almost double normal mixes here. Plus, it is only about 20#/cuft lighter...nowhere near enough to justify it. Lightweight is subject to area as to whether or not it is even available or if it is cheap or not. Gypcrete is more common here instead of lightweight. No idea about the cost of it, though., I just mess with the regular stuff.


    There are also floor leveling mixes that would work. Self levelers like Ardex might work.

    Leave a comment:


  • tacmig
    replied
    Try this..

    Light weight concrete! This stuff is the best. Your local ready-mix plant should have it. Prep is easy, floor is strong, quite and dosen't cost that much. When we expanded our shop we used this by suggestion as the best solution all the way around. It's been in for 5 years with no problems!

    Good luck,
    TacMig

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  • c neck
    replied
    put down a cemeant bourd like thy use behide tile and then use a self leveing
    cemeant

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