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If you are the only one using it, or you are the one paying for it, then make it the height that feels right to you. I always make a simple mock up out of plywood or cardboard on projects like this. It is much easier to see in 3D than to guess at it with a tape measure only. If you work on projects that are all different sizes consider a table with two levels. This allows a lot more options for clamping and positioning your workpieces as well as yourself.
Basically, the height depends on what you are doing
and the person doing the work.
A mock up is a good idea.
Also, look at the height of your kitchen counters -- how do they
feel as you are doing stuff there? That would also be a good gauge.
One trick that I find useful is to make a bench somewhat lower
than I'd like -- which is good for working on bigger things -- and
then put risers on top so that it's easier to work on smaller things
that may require finer work.
Finally, the woodworking people have written a bazillion books about
woodworking workbenches, etc, etc. One of the key things they talk
about is (you guessed it!) height. You might want to get a couple of
those books and see what's in them.
If you are the only one using it, or you are the one paying for it, then make it the height that feels right to you. I always make a simple mock up out of plywood or cardboard on projects like this. It is much easier to see in 3D than to guess at it with a tape measure only. If you work on projects that are all different sizes consider a table with two levels. This allows a lot more options for clamping and positioning your workpieces as well as yourself.
thanx,
how do you make two levels?
do you have pictures of that?
this is my plan right now (thanks to google sketchup)
I don't have any pictures as my digital camera is broken. I left the waist height work surface as the largest as that is where I do most of my work. I built another smaller work surface at a height about the same as my knees when standing. It's actually like a big table with a smaller and shorter table welded to it's end. Your design looks good. Think about projects you might build on this table and things like clamping ect. It's easier to change now than once you've started. Everyone needs something different in a worksurface. I left off grinder hangers and the such as I would likely just clutter my table up.
The legs of my welding table are made of 3" square tube, with a 1/2" hole at the bottom of the legs.
I then took 2.5" square tube and drilled 1/2" holes spaced 1" apart and inserted them inside the 3" legs so that the table height can be adjusted from 24" to 36" @ 1" increments by raising or lowering with a floor jack and a 1/2" hitch pin in the hole on each leg.
The casters are pinned on in the same manner so they can be removed when I don't want the table to be moved. It has been very helpful for me to be able to adjust the height of the table for different jobs to take some of the strain off my back when welding out of position for long periods of time.
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Out of curiosity, what's the function of the square tubing under the top surface?
here is your answer...
that way i can move the vice and put it in every corner/side of the table.
it doesnt have to be only for vice.. can be used for grinder etc.
(I think I took the idea of 2 legs to that mount from your garage picturs... so thank you!
Asking what height a welding table should be is like asking what size shoes you should buy.
Buy a pair/build a table that's comfortable for you.
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here is your answer...
that way i can move the vice and put it in every corner/side of the table.
it doesnt have to be only for vice.. can be used for grinder etc.
(I think I took the idea of 2 legs to that mount from your garage picturs... so thank you!
Ah, now I see. They're receiver tubes. Cool.
If you haven't built it yet, you might want to re-think the recessed area for the saw. I don't know that you want to weld and cut in the same location, since the heat/slag/grinder-spray might not be what you want for the plastic parts (and motor) on the saw. You can cut steel all day on a wood surface, and you could probably make a table that works for both a metal cold-cutting saw and a wood-cutting miter saw, if you do both kinds of work. (I'm a hobbyist, so I do everything in the same garage.) I think if my saw were that close to my welding table, I'd end up cutting up a welding blanket to make a hood to put over the saw to protect it.
If you're talking about an abrasive wheel chop saw, it might not matter. I guess they would have to deal with a lot of heat and dust since they generate so much. But I chucked my abrasive saw a long time ago.
All welding tables should be exactly 33 13/16" high.
One of the nice things about metalworking, it's easy to make things longer or shorter as needed.
Just build one, leaving enough room to cut some off the bottom of the legs if necessary, or add some. Or do like the guy previously said, make the legs adjustable.
I agree with what SundownIII said. Like shoes, there is no perfect "one size fits all".
Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....
I am 5' 10" tall. All my benches are 40 inches tall. This seems to be the perfect height for me and those I have made benches for in the past. You obviously can make the bench any height you wish. If you are going to stand at the bench like you said you are I am sure you will find that 90 cm is too low for most tasks and will be hard on your back. I also suggest you add some receivers as others have mentioned. Good luck.
thank you all for the replys
I am considering again puting the saw on the table..
i found out that 85 cm will be good for me (I'm 1.83 cm tall)
do you have some pictures of table legs that can be shorten ?
You'll need a ladder to reach the table
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