Welding Up Worn Out Levers

[Trap Doctor]

These are release levers inside a Winchester Clay target trap machine to keep the arm from whipping while cocking. The levers are in a gear box with automatic transmission fluid (Type F). The material is cast steel and welds very well. In the past I just build up and mill the ends back to spec. They have lasted 6 - 8 years before they wear out and stop holding the arm cocked. Recently two sets have worn out in 8 months, so I decided to ask the experts!!!

1. The sharp (machined) corners wear off to a 3/16 radius.
2. I have not chamfered or ground the edges prior to welding back up, just build up & machine.

Questions:
1. Should I grind off the corner more so there is more weld build up to get some heat into it and impurities out?
2. Is there a rule of thumb on how much weld you should have between the base material and the finish mill surface?
3. Is 309 stainless more wear resistant? The photo V-7- (3).jpg was welded by someone else. Appears to be another material, SS ? Didn't hold up!!
4. Should I be welding parallel or perpendicula to the front edge when building up?

Thanks
Jim

[tacmig]

??

Without seeing the whole picture (machine) and where the parts actually belong I'm kind-of at loss. It sounds as if your previous repairs did a good job. Perhaps the early wear-out is due to something else? or maybe you just didn't get a good bite this time around? I've seen these trap machines before but they differ from one to the other. Can you get some pics with the parts in place?

TacMig

[Trap Doctor]

tacmig,

Its hard to see the U-Shaped lever on the left side (U-facing the front of the gear box). The bottom of the U-finger locks into the knotch on P2110207 photo left side.

You maybe right about the previous repairs working. I pick up parts from other clubs and if they looked and measured ok, I used them. Not any more!! Grind, Clean, weld and machine!!!!

Any suggestions on the direction to lace weld ?

jim

[tacmig]

Lace weld.

tacmig,

Its hard to see the U-Shaped lever on the left side (U-facing the front of the gear box). The bottom of the U-finger locks into the knotch on P2110207 photo left side.

You maybe right about the previous repairs working. I pick up parts from other clubs and if they looked and measured ok, I used them. Not any more!! Grind, Clean, weld and machine!!!!

Any suggestions on the direction to lace weld ?

jim

Have you tried a circular weld? You can lace up, back then circle. I'm assuming the lace you are talking about is the same as a stitch? You can stitch with-out pulling your gun or stick by this technique. Just begin at the bottom, work out then to the top and to the next stitch.

Hope this helped?

TacMig

[Trap Doctor]

tacmig,

Is this the type of stich your refering too?

I really appreciate the help.

jim

[monte55]

Why don't you harden them after machining?

[tacmig]

That's it..

tacmig,

Is this the type of stich your refering too?

I really appreciate the help.

jim

For the size of the material you are welding this will do, I hope! It's the strongest I know of. Be sure to run your bead in a circular motion. This will give you better penetration and will also help with post grinding and machining.

Good luck,

TacMig