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Aquarium stand advice

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  • Jim-TX
    replied
    Nice job on the stand dedfish. I'm partial to powder coating for a couple of reasons. One, it's better. Two, this time of the year it's hard to paint unless you have a good heated place. I don't. My powder coater is only one mile from my shop so that makes it easy.

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  • kahlin
    replied
    What kind of tank?

    Acrylic or glass. For glass you'll need support around the perimeter of the tank. For acrylic you'll need a flat surface across the complete footprint of the bottom of the tank. No humps, so ensure it is level. I'd put one more crossmember at the middle from front to back, (if it's acrylic) so there would be any change of sagging/cracking. If glass, good to go. Level it good before filling with water.

    Saltwater tank- give it a good prime & paint. Skimmers, sumps, refugiums are big evaporaton sources.

    Good luck, post pic's

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  • dedfish
    replied
    All done welding...only finish work left to do.

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  • AJNicholson13
    replied
    Originally posted by dedfish View Post
    Yea...I'll be putting on several coats of paint. I've also considered powder coating it.
    Powdercoating is great I did my wheels on my car and I live in Ohio where winters are really rough on paint. My wheels are still going strong 3 yerars later.

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  • Engloid
    replied
    Originally posted by dedfish View Post
    I plan on plugging any open ends with silicone. Also I'll install some sort of leveling feet.

    Engloid: I'm planning on using 1 1/2 square tube.
    I don't think you'll need any sort of diagonals then, provided the welds are sound.

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  • dedfish
    replied
    I plan on plugging any open ends with silicone. Also I'll install some sort of leveling feet.

    Engloid: I'm planning on using 1 1/2 square tube.

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  • Engloid
    replied
    If it were me, I'd use 3/4-1" tube. I'd not count on any wood for strength. I'd build the steel frame strong enough to hold up.

    Don't forget to leave room for any filters that may hang off the back of the tank, and/or hoses that may need to go through the top surface, to the sump.

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  • fjk
    replied
    hi

    - you might want to seal up the ends of the tubing, both for aesthetics
    and to prevent moisture/etc from getting in there.

    - your design shows the stretchers/etc of the lower frame directly
    on the floor. if the floor has any bumps/etc in it, this will make
    the whole thing unstable. move the stretchers up a few inches
    and make it so that just the ends of the legs are on the floor.

    - probably also want to put levelers on the bottoms of the legs
    (or at least rubber feet).

    - i'd design the plywood box with some ventilation in it

    frank

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  • dedfish
    replied
    Yea...I'll be putting on several coats of paint. I've also considered powder coating it.

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  • SignWave
    replied
    It just occured to me..that lower coral tank has alot of airation to it right? Lots of tiny "fuzzy" bubbles? Maybe you want to make that steel frame from some stainless or paint the h e l l out of it. Those little bubbles each carry a tiny bit of mineral and salt. When this little bubble ( and all of his buddies)pops, its going to land partly on that nice steel frame and the chemical reaction will with time rust your work into the ground.... just a thought.

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  • dedfish
    replied
    The front and at least 1 of the sides will be made removable.

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  • Fishy Jim
    replied
    If you properly attach the plywood sides (at least three of them), you don't need any cross bracing, as the wood will do that for you. Same principle as home construction with the sheathing being a loaded member.

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  • dedfish
    replied
    This is for a salt water reef tank, 70gal. Under the stand will house the filtration equipment including a sump (a 29gal tank with more live rock and macro algae), a protein skimmer, a few dosing pumps to add additives at intervals through out the day and a controller to monitor and record temp and php and also to control the lights. This is a common setup for reef tanks. One of the reasons of building the stand bigger than the tank is to allow room to upgrade to a bigger tank later.

    I know what you mean about being scared the commercial stands you see in pet stores will collapse under the weight. You'd be surprised by how much the bottom rim of the tank distributes the weight across the surface.

    I used to keep cichlids before I moved on to saltwater.

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  • SignWave
    replied
    Ooops. I guess I should read a little farther..

    Put some shelves and storage into the design. if youve got an external filter (like a magnum 350 or a fluval) your gonna want to have a home for it. Mine was behind a door and it didnt even make the slightest sound. Very pleasing overall effect. this shelving and stroge would also add strength to you already nice looking design. and how about some legs? you need some place for dust bunnies to collect!!!

    Cheers.

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  • SignWave
    replied
    looks strong enough to me

    Hi Dedfish,
    I was in the local fish store not too long ago and Hagen had a "full kit" 150 gallon tank and stand. it was particle board on the outside and a steel frame on the inside. ewwwww....

    Thing is, the frame was so puny it looked as if the tank would crush it or do a side step by buckling the stand. Smash!! water all over the living room...

    My last fish tank was a 150 USG's but it was on a plywood structure.

    I guess what im trying to say is that the stell is stronger than you'd think. So if you take that idea (nice drawing by the way what program did you use?) of yours and add the gussets you mentioned, i think it'll hold alot more than a 95 gallon tank. anyway be safe.. Insurance companies arent to pleased about fixing water damage..

    what kind of fish do you have? I was into cichlids. african ones.

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