Finger vs Foot

[SignWave]

As time marches on, I find that my foot pedal is a little bulky and there are times when it isnt convenient.

How does the finger control work? do you press a lever or turn a knob?
how does it mount to the torch? with a zip strap or tape????

is it a quick install or is it time consuming to back out of?

Any of you guys out there with one or both, I'd sure like to hear what you have to say about them. Pro's , Con's of each.
Thanks alot.

[Jetmekdc-10]

Hi signwave, I posted a similar question a couple of months ago and most of the respones were "some love it, some hate it". More and more I find I need a thumb control for out of position welding but I just can't bring myself to buy one. ( I really don't know why),, Anyways I considered asking someone on here if I could borrow one for a week to try it but knowing my luck it would get stepped on and I would have to get them a new one and be out the cash anyways. Adam

[pthunberg]

The one I had on my Red machine was built into the torch, but I have seen them available that zip tie on. Just have to be sure it will plug in. I personally have trouble getting the same control with them as with the foot peddle. Every time I move the knob I get unwanted movement of the torch. Might just be a case of lack of hand eye coordination.

[SignWave]

so how does it work? do you turn spring loaded knob? what gets the arc going? once youve set the amps, does it stay there?
The foot pedal will return to zero if you take your foot off of it. there must be something like that incorporated into the finger control too right?

is there a "trigger" style around?

[pthunberg]

Mine did not have a spring. You had to return it to 0 amps to stop the arc. Otherwise worked just like the foot control. Twist the knob and High freak or scratch start the arc. Never seen a trigger control, sounds like a good idea though. Twisting the knob with gloves on is a pain in the #$%.

Paul

[GONWHLN]

I have used both hand and foot controles. hand control was a slide switch ,hard to control but handy for out of position work.It stayed in what ever position you set it (0 to max)and I set the machine to continious HI-FRIQ.I use foot control when possible ,much better for arc control.
Hope this info helps you decide. Don Campbell

[Big_Eddy]

I have a thumb control. Just a little wheel - turn it to where you want. Mine has a click at one end to lock it there - think that is full on. I set the Maxstar to the max amps I want, and can dial it down from there.

Mine is velcroed to the torch - It slips around a lot and generally gets in the way. I've tried it above the torch and under the torch - both are about the same. I love the trigger idea although depending on how you're holding the torch may not always be in the right place.

Honestly - I never move it while I'm welding - I can't seem to figure out which way is up ( dumb as that sounds) when I'm welding and with gloves on - once I get it moving it overshoots any way. I just set it and leave it, although I will adjust it between beads - easier than getting up and bending down to adjust the front dial.

I don't TIG a lot - and most of it is small tacks anyway - so hasn't been an issue for me. I think the foot control would be easier for my application, but that was what came with the unit when I got it.

[SignWave]

Thanks for the great answers guys. Much appreciated. I now have a better idea as to how these things work. You'd think in this day and age though...
The trigger thing just makes sence. Now lets see who comes up with it second and makes a killing off of my idea.

[Samurai Dave]

TIG finger control flavors

There are several flavors of finger controls available. Assuming you are running a 14-pin TIG rig, here are some examples:

"fine" control (more movement of the wheel required to change amps)
Wheel is mounted with axis of rotation parallel to torch.

http://store.cyberweld.com/rcremcon.html

"fast ramp-up" control (small movement of wheel gives large change in amps)
Wheel is mounted with axis of rotation at rt angle to the torch.

http://store.cyberweld.com/rcremconandc.html

Rocker switch (momentary and lock-on) for tack welding, and sustained amps

http://cgi.ebay.com/Miller-129337-RMLS-14-Remote-Switch-14-pin-plug_W0QQitemZ170070084319QQihZ007QQcategoryZ34096QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Here's the ON-OFF switch you are looking for. This would be very effective with a TIG rig that has a pre-programmable ramp-up, weld, and ramp-down feature.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Miller-187208-RMS-14-Remote-On-Off-Control-14-pin-plug_W0QQitemZ170057953969QQihZ007QQcategoryZ34096QQcmdZViewItem

All of these strap with Velcro to your torch.

Happy Tigging!

[abprt]

finger control for tig

As time marches on, I find that my foot pedal is a little bulky and there are times when it isnt convenient.

How does the finger control work? do you press a lever or turn a knob?
how does it mount to the torch? with a zip strap or tape????

is it a quick install or is it time consuming to back out of?

Any of you guys out there with one or both, I'd sure like to hear what you have to say about them. Pro's , Con's of each.
Thanks alot.

SignWave; I went to a finger control that is a slider and it just clips onto the torch handle. The reason that I decided to go to one is that there are alot of times that you can get out of position that the foot pedal is almost a major problem to use such as laying unneath a pontoon boat or working on stainless sinks at restraunts. The finger control is like anything else that you have to get use to in using. Mine has an off position and amps increase with the movement of the slider. I've also used the knob control too and it does the same thing. Most the time you only have to use your thumb to move the knob or slider but again it because of bad postioning and portability that made me decide to change. Seldom use the foot control because that's two pieces that needs to be moved on location instead of one. I must say here also that I also went with a Dynasty 200dx for the portability also so it all depends on your needs.

[SignWave]

SignWave; I went to a finger control that is a slider and it just clips onto the torch handle. The reason that I decided to go to one is that there are alot of times that you can get out of position that the foot pedal is almost a major problem to use such as laying unneath a pontoon boat or working on stainless sinks at restraunts. The finger control is like anything else that you have to get use to in using. Mine has an off position and amps increase with the movement of the slider. I've also used the knob control too and it does the same thing. Most the time you only have to use your thumb to move the knob or slider but again it because of bad postioning and portability that made me decide to change. Seldom use the foot control because that's two pieces that needs to be moved on location instead of one. I must say here also that I also went with a Dynasty 200dx for the portability also so it all depends on your needs.

I like the idea of a slider. that sounds like the ticket. I know that the foot pedal is a lunky floor wieght that resembles a boat anchor. It even has comes with some rode to sink it... Thanks for all the great replies and advices.

I checked ou tall the ebay Items too but the photos dont show a whole lot. I am going to go into the local welders supply shops and start looking around. and see whats out there. thanks again guys

[BillyGoat123]

I may be wrong, as most of my TIG work is done on a bench, but I was under the impression that in the hard to reach areas where a pedal is not accessible that the machine should have the remote amperage and remote starts simply shut off, and have the amperage adjusted to where it needs to be directly at the machine? Is this not the case?

[Black Wolf]

I was under the impression that in the hard to reach areas where a pedal is not accessible that the machine should have the remote amperage and remote starts simply shut off.

If you remove or disable the amphenol (hand or foot) then you default to the Amperage on the face of the machine when the arc is established with an On/Off momentary switch to begin & end the arc. If you remove the "remote start" (No momentary switch) it would still work with Scratch start, but how would you initiate Hi-Frequency???

Later,
Jason

[2much2do]

I use a Lincoln square wave 175 (work bought it, If it were up to me It would be blue.) but since I have to use the tig in a different spot every time, I use a slider thumb control. It uses velcro straps, but I found zip ties work better. I have it set up so I can use it with my index finger. I've been doing it that way for over a year and it works great.

[BillyGoat123]

If you remove or disable the amphenol (hand or foot) then you default to the Amperage on the face of the machine when the arc is established with an On/Off momentary switch to begin & end the arc. If you remove the "remote start" (No momentary switch) it would still work with Scratch start, but how would you initiate Hi-Frequency???

Later,
Jason

Right, I knew you'd then be relying on the amperage wherever its dialed in at on the machine (Makes you be a lot more careful where you put it at I'd imagine) But I've never tried to run Hi-Freq with a scratch start, so I don't know? It won't work? I guess I'll have to try it this afternoon.