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Millermatic 135 Amperage Problems

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  • Steve
    replied
    OK here we go Dirtbmw20. First things first, Check the remedy box items on page 28 for No weld output, wire feeds and the next one following Low weld output. Thats it for Miller recommendations so if all that stuff is ok then onward we trundle. Where to start, the beginning. Only difference in the 115 and 230 models is the power input and the power switch,transformers and such,and how they connect to the board so If 230v check rc10 to rc5 for 230 or so volts. If 115 then check rc4 to rc5 for 115 volts or so. Turn the unit on and check the fan voltage rc2 and rc3 , If thats 24 volts or so then the power should be ok. But then if the wire feeder works ok then I would think the power is ok. Break time.
    Last edited by Steve; 11-05-2007, 11:53 PM.

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  • Steve
    replied
    Getting the manual as we speak. When I get it downloaded I'll take a look and follow with hopefully something good. As your best bud is an electrical engineer then I will refrain from telling yall to not touch the hot stuuf. How can you tell if its hot? ya can't so keep your hands on the leads or one in your pocket. Anyway not done downloading so my background is 21 years aviation electronics on F-106 and F-15 aircraft and test stations. FYI

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  • Dirtbmw20
    replied
    Originally posted by Steve View Post
    Do you know how to use a multimeter? If so I can tell you where to look but need model and serial number of your machine. If not then take it in and have it checked. If its a board (my bet) then you can get repair costs and go from there. I looked at the generic 135 diagram in manual. Pretty simple. The board does it all for controlling output. The transformer ups whatever it is given and the rectifiers do their thing. Might check the ground clamp, but you probably already done that.

    Steve, Thanks so much for the reply back. Unfortunately, NO, I don't know how to use a multimeter BUT my best friend is an electrical engineer who does know how. The model is a Millermatic 135 and the serial# is LC516277. There is a parts breakdown and a schematic of the pc board on the Miller site, I've got that all printed out. My buddy is betting on the potentiometer being bad but the welding shop said it could be that, the rectifier, or the pc board. I have checked the ground and it is clamped tight to the work piece, the nut holding it inside the machine is tight and there are no cuts in the cable, anything else it could be with the ground ??? Is there a way to check the rectifier or the pc board with a multimeter ??? I did get a price on the potentiometer today for about $19.00 bucks but failed to ask about the pc board. Do you have any idea or clue as to what a pc board might cost for this unit ?? Thanks again for the reply back and any help is greatly appreciated.

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  • Steve
    replied
    Do you know how to use a multimeter? If so I can tell you where to look but need model and serial number of your machine. If not then take it in and have it checked. If its a board (my bet) then you can get repair costs and go from there. I looked at the generic 135 diagram in manual. Pretty simple. The board does it all for controlling output. The transformer ups whatever it is given and the rectifiers do their thing. Might check the ground clamp, but you probably already done that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dirtbmw20
    started a topic Millermatic 135 Amperage Problems

    Millermatic 135 Amperage Problems

    Hello all, newbie to the forum here.

    I have a Millermatic 135 that I am having problems with the amperage adjustment on it. It doesn't matter how much I turn the amps up on the machine, it won't stick a weld for nothing. It does nothing but spit and spatter when the trigger is pulled and while striking an arc, you can turn the amp adjustment knob and NOTHING happens, no change at all. I can take a piece of 24 gauge expanded metal and cut the machine all the way up to 10, when it should burn right through thin expanded metal like that, it won't even stick the weld to it. I have had the machine for a little over 4 years and this just started about 2-3 weeks ago, it's just taken me this long to figure out what the problem is. My question is this...............................

    How do I figure out WHAT is bad on the machine. I called my local Miller distributor today and he said it could be anything from the rectifier to the pc board to the potentiometer switch but how do I figure out WHICH one is bad. I priced the potentiometer switch today at about $19.00 bucks so if it's that then it won't be too bad but if it's a pc board then I could probally buy a new welder for what it will cost to fix this one. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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